Head Off

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id check slides carefully for wear as said before they can snag ,bearmach do oem kits cheaper and pattern for a £5,i look at rocker adjuster screws they should all have about the same thread poking above nut if not indicates push rod sat wrong or other issue,unless your keeping engine for 30 more years mixing followers up wont make much difference ,condition is what matters

Alright then. I will go all new, I really would have to be stupid not to considering that I've got the head off. I want it to be right, I just need to get as good a price as I can on the parts now. I am tempted to avoid Britpart but then again not absolutely everything they manufacture (or badge as their own) is terrible. I'd sooner go with all makes or bearmach. The best I've got so far is ~£110 for all eight rollers, sliders and guides.

-Tom
 
All my new bits arrived today. 8 new Allmakes follower assemblies consisting of guides, bolts (metric & imperial) slides and rollers, Elring 3 hole head gasket, manifold gasket and head bolts. £106 all in which I think is very reasonable. I haven't heard anything back from the engineering shop about my head yet though :eek:

-Tom
 
I have a little more reason for concern now. I have cleaned up the top deck today and I rotated the crank so that I could wipe the bores clean of metal dust and I noticed this in cylinder no.3, should I be concerned? I can only very slightly feel it if I run my finger nail around the bore. Would a quick deglaze with the pistons at BDC help?

borewear.jpg


-Tom
 
Have you tried rubbing the marks off with a paraffin-soaked cloth, or is it actually glazed on?

It actually looks more like a water mark.
 
Have you tried rubbing the marks off with a paraffin-soaked cloth, or is it actually glazed on?

It actually looks more like a water mark.

No but I will do now you've suggested it :) I am going to give the bores a top-end deglaze (with the pistons at BDC) just to take the polish off. That will certainly clean it up if it is just a water mark.

-Tom
 
If you're going to do it I'd put the pistons half way down then smear a little grease around the top of the piston edge. When you're done cleaning the bore run the piston down further and wipe away the grease which will have caught any rubbish and stopped it getting between the piston and the bore. At BDC you only have the option of up and any ****e will get dragged up as well.
 
Well I have decided to do the job properly. I have ordered a set of four standard sized piston rings from AllMakes as well as a set of big end shells. I bought eight new follower assemblies last week which are sat ready to drop into the block and my cylinder head is back from the engineering shop with a foray of work carried out (re-cut valve seats and valves, de-coke, skimmed etc.). I drained the oil tonight, took the sump off, oil pump out and I am awaiting the arrival of a bolt extractor tomorrow to get out one rounded off bolt that is holding the ladder frame in place.

On the subject of 200tdi ladder frames, this may (or may not) be of some interest. It is common knowledge that the ladder frame is secured to the fly wheel housing in the Defender variant via a means of four recessed bolts which sit around the bottom edge of the flywheel housing, thus meaning that the engine has to be detached from the bell housing in order to access them. The Discovery variant typically relies on four longer bolts which travel the entire length through the bell housing, flywheel housing and then directly into the ladder frame, meaning that they can be removed without the need to separate the engine from the bell housing. In my case however, I have a 200tdi engine as removed from a Range Rover Classic. It looks exactly the same as the Discovery variant, sharing the same timing case, intake and exhaust manifolds etc. but it appears to have the Defender flywheel housing. I say this because I can quite clearly see that the studs from the flywheel housing pass straight through the bell housing and the nut is on the bell housing side. I can also see a tube like casting in between the lugs that the studs are fastened to meaning that in theory, this engine should have had four ladder frame bolts sat in an array of recesses similar to the Defender. Whether or not this flywheel hosting was fastened to the 200tdi used in the Range Rover Classic as standard is anyone's guess but luckily for me, those ****witt bolts were not in place. I think I might have knowingly removed them before I installed the engine into my 90 a couple of years ago but if not, then I have been exceptionally lucky. I don't think of them as being overly necessary, so it doesn't bother me that much.

Tomorrow night should see the pistons out, the bores deglazed and if my new rings arrive, I will clean out the groves in the pistons and fit the new rings, ensuring they are gapped correctly of course. Does anyone know what gap there should be on a 200tdi piston ring?

All good fun!
-Tom
 
dont forget to gap each ring and not at most worn part ,further down ,any marks denotes top side even if it doesnt say top ,

Thank you. :) When you say further down, do you mean about 1/3 of the way down the bore or further? I'd assume they should not need too much gapping if they are specifically manufactured to fit a standard size bore in a 200tdi? Obviously I will check.
 
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