Head Off

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jamesmartin said:
not too light similar to what youve done other wise it wont last
Click to expand...

Alright. One last question for you sir. If I repeat the process again tomorrow and get a good cross hatching, am I likely to have taken away enough metal to cause problems? I will be fitting standard size rings to standard sized pistons.

Ta,
-Tom
 
The DIY drill powered honing stones are more better described as glaze busters. They wont take off anything as much as a machine shop honer will especially if you only used them for a few seconds in each bore.

As JM says better to get a good pattern and the rings will bed in better. Dont loose too much sleep over getting a perfect pattern. Keep the stones well lubed, nice slow speed with steady up/down action and make sure you clean the bores properly when done.
 
Right, ive got myself a nice cross hatching in all four bores now. All the bits that I need to get the engine back together are here, the only piece left being a running-in oil. Any suggestions? I know Millers do one. I was also thinking along the lines of a really cheap and nasty super market mineral oil but I am not too sure.

-Tom
 
What JM says. Drive it normally and make it work for a living. It will bed in quicker and stop the bores getting glazed. Use cheap mineral oil from your local farm supplier and change the oil after 500 miles and then again for good stuff at at 1000.
 
Not far off having it all back together now, just a few hours a night in the ****ing down, windy cold is making it a slow and arduous task. Anyway, I have run into a potential problem and I need some advice. The 200tdi has an oil way that runs up past one of the front most head bolts out into the rocker box. It would appear that I didn't clean all of the oil out of the hole when I was torquing the head down and a small amount of oil wept from between the head and the new gasket. My question is this:- will a bit of oil contamination of my new head gasket cause me any problems or should everything be alright now that it is torqued down properly? I know that it is not ideal, but would a little oil between the head and the gasket cause any real problems?

Thanks,
-Tom
 
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jamesmartin said:
it will dry ,you where lucky bolt didnt hydraulic
Click to expand...

Ahh good. I didn't think it was possible for that bolt to hydraulic. Am I right in believing that it is the oil way / supply to the rocker shaft area? It's the one and only bolt hole at the front of the engine that is always full of oil, so I presume there is an oil way somewhere toward the bottom of the hole?
 
As JM says you should be OK. I've helped change a head gasket in deepest Tanzania and there was oil and sand everywhere. Went on to do nearly a thousand miles, most of it in low range, with no problems. Bush mechanics are not the cleanest of workers. I dont mean pesonally of course :) just how they work.
 
Another update for you. I got the engine all back together on Friday night and fired it up on Saturday morning. It started straight away and there are no horrible rattles etc. I have since covered about 150 miles. It has used no oil, there is no blow-by and it seems to be pulling really well. The only problem is, I still have my irritating hunting / misfire problem and white / blue smoke on start up! All that and no better. So, this leaves me with two things in mind which I would like some thoughts on:

1) I intend to strip the timing cover off on Monday (I've booked the day off) and check the crank damper key way, the crank sprocket key way and of course, both crank woodruff keys. I will also be removing the cam sprocket and checking the keyway there. I only installed a new belt during the Summer, but it will get another new Delco belt along with a new tensioner and idler (neither of which I replaced when I did the belt).

2) Failing there being timing issues, the only other thing on my mind is the fact that I reused all 8 follower assembly securing bolts when re-assembling the engine with new followers. Each follower assembly came with two new bolts (one metric, one imperial I presume?) but the quality was appalling, much lesser in weight and thickness than the original ones. One bolt however, had a little wear around the chamfered edge that tightens up into the hole on the guide. Is it possible that, if there is a slight clearance between the guide and this bolt, the entire assembly will move up and down a fraction in it's recess in the block causing friction / valve train problems?

Thanks from a head scratcher!
-Tom
 
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