Hand Break Sticking

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
frog hopper said:
Dont know if this will help but this is how I replace handbrake shoes.

unbolt and slide back the drum over the prop,

lever off old shoes,

assemble new shoes and springs on the prop and slide a small nail into the spring loop to retain them on the spring,

lever spring/shoe assembly into place and remove holding nails,

refit drum. simples - 10 min job.
Click to expand...

On a Defender????
And 10 minutes my arse!!:rolleyes::D:D
 
bustersbus said:
On a Defender????
And 10 minutes my arse!!:rolleyes::D:D
Click to expand...

Takes me more than 10 minutes these days, to get into mah box and find the spanners. and then I have to have a cupa, then I take it to bits and have my lunch, then I go for the bits, and then I'm exhaustid. Next day same procedure but in reverse, unless its too cold or raining then I watch the telly.

So in fairness a few days probably.
 
david451 said:
Takes me more than 10 minutes these days, to get into mah box and find the spanners. and then I have to have a cupa, then I take it to bits and have my lunch, then I go for the bits, and then I'm exhaustid. Next day same procedure but in reverse, unless its too cold or raining then I watch the telly.

So in fairness a few days probably.
Click to expand...

HEHEHEEHEE! Ah was a bit like that mesel' between interuptions, although ah must admit that ah swapped the cuppas fur a beer or two;):D:D
 
Ho Hum,looks like I should hang me head and make an apology. :(:(

Sorry that I've given a load of bollocks.

But, I've done this twice without removing the prop but not on a defender, 1st was a series 3, 2nd was a 85 110. For the life of me I can't remember how the drum comes off the earlier models but it did on mine. I can see clearly from Busters photo's that it would be impossible on a later model.

Also 10 minutes was a bit tongue in cheek, but I did do this inside 1/2 hour in a camping field in a desperate race to get my trialler through scrutineering at an ARC (as was then) national.
 
frog hopper said:
Ho Hum,looks like I should hang me head and make an apology. :(:(

Sorry that I've given a load of bollocks.

But, I've done this twice without removing the prop but not on a defender, 1st was a series 3, 2nd was a 85 110. For the life of me I can't remember how the drum comes off the earlier models but it did on mine. I can see clearly from Busters photo's that it would be impossible on a later model.

Also 10 minutes was a bit tongue in cheek, but I did do this inside 1/2 hour in a camping field in a desperate race to get my trialler through scrutineering at an ARC (as was then) national.
Click to expand...

Ah wouldn't worry about it mate;):D:D

Ye were right about keepin' the prop on on the series tho' when ye see the drum...

274423 HANDBRAKE DRUM | Land Rover Series 1948-1984: Brake: Drum/Disc | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series

and flange...

http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/15731/80/1/236630-REAR-TRANSMISSION-FLANGE-HUB.html

;)
 
Last edited:
frog hopper said:
Ho Hum,looks like I should hang me head and make an apology. :(:(

Sorry that I've given a load of bollocks.

But, I've done this twice without removing the prop but not on a defender, 1st was a series 3, 2nd was a 85 110. For the life of me I can't remember how the drum comes off the earlier models but it did on mine. I can see clearly from Busters photo's that it would be impossible on a later model.

Also 10 minutes was a bit tongue in cheek, but I did do this inside 1/2 hour in a camping field in a desperate race to get my trialler through scrutineering at an ARC (as was then) national.
Click to expand...

See! dunt mess wi buster he knows his stuff












(and hes bigger than me so im gonna say that arnt I)
 
frog hopper said:
Ho Hum,looks like I should hang me head and make an apology. :(:(

Sorry that I've given a load of bollocks.

But, I've done this twice without removing the prop but not on a defender, 1st was a series 3, 2nd was a 85 110. For the life of me I can't remember how the drum comes off the earlier models but it did on mine. I can see clearly from Busters photo's that it would be impossible on a later model.

Also 10 minutes was a bit tongue in cheek, but I did do this inside 1/2 hour in a camping field in a desperate race to get my trialler through scrutineering at an ARC (as was then) national.
Click to expand...

I do it all the time coz I'm a daft old duffer, but better to have tried and made a coont of yurself than to not have tried and not have given us a laugh hehehe.;)
 
buster!!!!!!!!! need your help!!

been doing this for the last 2h...

to slide the drum back was a pain, had to hammer it out...
anyway, took it out, took all the little bits and forget to check how the slope was initially, but after a lot of time pushing that piston in and out, i figured out how they are supposed to be in..

so, with the piston, which is connected to the handbrake cable, all in, the 2 little ones that hold the shoes, should be all the way in....when the main piston is pulled by the cable, then it pushes (via the slopes and the little cylinder) the 2 other pistons out, therefore pushing the shoes out and against the drum..

correct?

so..if this is correct, I checked that the 2 little pistons can't go any further in...

but when i try to slide the drum back in, its really tight..
is it supposed to be like this? shouldnt it just go in and not even thouch the drum? because if its tight, then its almost like the handbrake will always be in use, just not fully?

didnt put the drum back in as want to make sure its supposed to be tight..

cheers
 
[JP];1012559 said:
buster!!!!!!!!! need your help!!

been doing this for the last 2h...

to slide the drum back was a pain, had to hammer it out...
anyway, took it out, took all the little bits and forget to check how the slope was initially, but after a lot of time pushing that piston in and out, i figured out how they are supposed to be in..

so, with the piston, which is connected to the handbrake cable, all in, the 2 little ones that hold the shoes, should be all the way in....when the main piston is pulled by the cable, then it pushes (via the slopes and the little cylinder) the 2 other pistons out, therefore pushing the shoes out and against the drum..

correct?

so..if this is correct, I checked that the 2 little pistons can't go any further in...

but when i try to slide the drum back in, its really tight..
is it supposed to be like this? shouldnt it just go in and not even thouch the drum? because if its tight, then its almost like the handbrake will always be in use, just not fully?

didnt put the drum back in as want to make sure its supposed to be tight..

cheers
Click to expand...

Did ye slacken the adjusters properly? The cable side needs the handbrake cable slackened right off and the other adjuster (square peg) only needs a tiny bit to slacken off.
Did ye doubly check which way the shoes were fitted originally? Ah had a bit of bother to start with with mine... ah presumed they went any old way! Turns out that the rounded ends need to go on the cable side and flat ends on the other. Here's what ah mean...

Handbrakestuff023.jpg


The pistons on the cable side have a groove with a slope and a roller thingy that sits in the groove.When ye stick them back in, make sure the highest part of the groove is nearest the back plate. The other side should be facin' outwards.
The cable side should really do all the work and the other side justs adjusts the shoes.
Does yer drum have a lip inside? Ah just ran some emery cloth / sandpaper around it to flatten it out a bit.... just around the edge where the shoes don't touch.
Check it over again and let me know how ye got on mate;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

payydg
How to ship a vehicle to a foreign country.
Replies
0
Views
3K
payydg
payydg
GRUNT
Buying a second hand 90
Replies
8
Views
4K
Pikey
Pikey
GRUNT
Buying a second hand 90
Replies
13
Views
10K
hugh3s
H
Back
Top