Guide to Defender body construction?

WLJayne · Feb 10, 2013

Hi guys,

I'm currently trying to get my head around how everything that sits on top of the chassis goes together - just so I can start doing a bit of research into repair tips and prices for new parts etc. Is there a guide on here or online somewhere that shows what parts the body is made up of? I have tried looking at workshop manuals but unless I'm blind they don't seem to cover it.

The best way to learn would be to get one and take it to bits of course - that'll come later

. For now it'd just be nice to know what bits it's made up and how you can repair or replace them and how much it all might cost

.

Ta folks,

Will.

Dr_evil · Feb 10, 2013

with bolts, spot welds and rivets

WLJayne · Feb 10, 2013

Dr_evil said:
with bolts, spot welds and rivets

Haha no doubt

. I can see some of the obvious major components like the bulkhead, wings, bonnet, rear tub and upper panels. But some pars I'm not sure about like the sills and or floor pan and the door posts between the doors on a 110. I'm probably not far off, but any help you guys could give me would help me get a better picture of it all in my head

.

It's looking like it will ideally be a 300Tdi 110 crew cab van, full rebuild with new chassis and interior trim in addition to anything else I like the look of and have money left over to do (lol like hell.) Not looking to build an off road monster, justa neat looking Fender that will last me decades if I want it to

. The fun is in the build so the more knackered the starting vehicle the better within reason.

Dr_evil · Feb 10, 2013

the posts are welded in, sills are bolted or welded depending on which bit you mean, floor pans are bolted

jamesmartin · Feb 10, 2013

floor pan is just 2 screwed down plates in front and 1 across in rear tub has riveted and spot weld construction

Pikey · Feb 10, 2013

starting from front Innerwings and outer wings bolt primarily to the Bulkhead,

Front doors bolt to the bulkhead. footwels floor pans bolt/srew to bulkhead and seatbox

Actual footwells are part of bulkhead.
Transmission tunnel fastens to bulkhead seatbox and floor panels

Windscreen bolts to a pair of False hinges on the Bulkhead.
seatbox bolts to rear tub as do the rear side/end panels.
Roof bolts to sides/rear and top of windscreen.

Bulkhead is bolted to a pair of Chassis outriggers.
as are 2nd row doors if fitted.

It's possible to unbolt and remove the whole body off the chassis and still drive the landy around.

Dr_evil · Feb 10, 2013

redhand said:
It's possible to unbolt and the whole body off the chassis and still drive the landy around.

Good fun is that

I did it in the old series, body off leave bulkhead in place and then off you go

WLJayne · Feb 10, 2013

Crikey, this is remarkably straightforward! Looks like alot of work if there is widespread rust but hey I'm in it for the long haul. I've managed to find one or two photo logs of rebuilds and it illustrates what you guys have said very nicely

. I don't think it would require any tools that I don't have apart from maybe an engine crane for the re-chassis.

Once I've moved in March I'll be able to start seriously shopping around for the project vehicle

. In the meantime I'm doing as much research as I can!

So the bits on the doors that rust are the steel frame that the ali panel fits to, right?

Dr_evil · Feb 10, 2013

check 65's rebuild for pics on door repair

jamesmartin · Feb 10, 2013

WLJayne said:
Crikey, this is remarkably straightforward! Looks like alot of work if there is widespread rust but hey I'm in it for the long haul. I've managed to find one or two photo logs of rebuilds and it illustrates what you guys have said very nicely . I don't think it would require any tools that I don't have apart from maybe an engine crane for the re-chassis.

Once I've moved in March I'll be able to start seriously shopping around for the project vehicle . In the meantime I'm doing as much research as I can!

So the bits on the doors that rust are the steel frame that the ali panel fits to, right?

steel and ali dont mix well the ali panels rot in other places too ,if you have access to a fork lift body can be lifted as one

WLJayne · Feb 10, 2013

Dr_evil said:
check 65's rebuild for pics on door repair

Will Do

jamesmartin said:
steel and ali dont mix well the ali panels rot in other places too ,if you have access to a fork lift body can be lifted as one

I'm intending on restoring and respraying everything so I may as well take it off panel by panel but that's good to know

.

The intention would be for it to look brand spankers when finished - except built and trimmed to my desires!

A friend of a friend has just ordered a brand new 110 costing £26k paying in full. No offence to anyone who has bought a new one but anyone can write a cheque, that aint me. If I haven't worked on it at least a little then it aint really mine and it aint really me, that's how my mind works. I'd do a rebuild even if I had £26k. I'd just buy the poshest leffer seats I could find

.

Dr_evil · Feb 10, 2013

range rover ones will fit with some mods to seat box

dodgyrob · Feb 10, 2013

Watch this.....

TIme laps Land Rover Build Part 1 - YouTube

Pikey · Feb 10, 2013

Roof and rear door off

Sides off

Tub removed to allow new Rear crossmember to be fitted, with additional reinfocring plates welded on.

Underised of rear chassis Tub can be seen shoved forwards out of the way

Replacement tub and doors fitted

The finished article

As you can see everything ois replaceable if necessary.

WLJayne · Feb 10, 2013

redhand said:
As you can see everything ois replaceable if necessary.

Nice pics mate. That's the beauty of these, they are totally modular - you could keep one going a long as there are parts for it which there always will be

.

jamesmartin · Feb 10, 2013

WLJayne said:
Will Do

I'm intending on restoring and respraying everything so I may as well take it off panel by panel but that's good to know .

The intention would be for it to look brand spankers when finished - except built and trimmed to my desires!

A friend of a friend has just ordered a brand new 110 costing £26k paying in full. No offence to anyone who has bought a new one but anyone can write a cheque, that aint me. If I haven't worked on it at least a little then it aint really mine and it aint really me, that's how my mind works. I'd do a rebuild even if I had £26k. I'd just buy the poshest leffer seats I could find .

good,its very satisfying building as new ,its the best jobs ive had

Pikey · Feb 10, 2013

WLJayne said:
Nice pics mate. That's the beauty of these, they are totally modular - you could keep one going a long as there are parts for it which there always will be .

This was her 1st day I got her, home. trailered from Dumfrieshire to Hull. Cost me £800 but came with new doors, crossmember and loads of spares. Owner was about to do her up when he blew up his Toyota Surf and had to sell the 90 to pay for the repairs. As it was his works vehicle.

Station House · Feb 11, 2013

This might help you

http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/parts_books/90/9_body_chassis_p794-923.pdf

More exploded diagrams in the parts and paint sticky

Trewey · Feb 11, 2013

redhand said:
The finished article

An alternative view...

matchmetisse · Feb 11, 2013

So basically everything bolts to the bulkhead!a sort of datum point so look for a decent bulkhead, i have fitted a new one to our 90 and had it galved, caused a bit of issue when lining things up as it must have distorted in the process, but ratchet straps and lots of tension over 3 days fixed it!

Guide to Defender body construction?

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