I just got a selection of glass fuses delivered. 30mm 5amp to 30amp. I want the full range for the Defender so need some 2.5, 8, 12 and 17amp. Any idea where I can get as a set or do I have to order in individual quantities? Ebay has some sets but not including the sizes I want.
Glass fuses ??
- Thread starter meego
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bluedog333
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I get individual ones from my local car accessory shop. There are some amp ratings that you just can't get anymore, I can't remember which ones though! I think 12a and 17a, you may have to substitute for 10a and 15a. If you're really keen you can upgrade to 'modern' blade fuses, it's easy to do and many will recommend it. I'm still on glasses as I don't have any problems and I quite like being different!
pete1987RRC
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Vehicle wireing products Ilkeston Derbyshire, good web shop
NiallRussell
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Good luck on the conversion.
I did that and it was a right pain in the arse as the wires to the glass fuse box was only JUST long enough. Be very careful cutting the wires before you find out you have to re-thread / splice new wires in.
I did that and it was a right pain in the arse as the wires to the glass fuse box was only JUST long enough. Be very careful cutting the wires before you find out you have to re-thread / splice new wires in.
FlyingPete
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I did the conversion a while back. There's enough space (with a little cutting of the mounting plate) for three 8-way fuse boxes. This covered the standard 12 fuses, the additional 2-way box that was installed for the rear wiper/heated window, and the two inline fuses that were stuffed behind the radio. That still leaves room for future expansion such as extra lights or towing electrics etc.
Thanks for the heads up.
I think I read an old post by you I found in a search about this. Thanks for posting again.
nesponge
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Just converted my 1989 90 to blades.
Glass fuses are awful
Glass fuses are awful
Mine is an 89. Any advice on where to buy parts etc.?
bluedog333
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Vehicle Wiring Products ( VWP ) are who most folks go to.
nesponge
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I used a second hand loom from a 1992 200tdi and took the opportunity to fit a new ignition barrel .
I also purchased a new engine loom and timer relay/harness from autosparks for approx £100 altogether.
I also purchased a new engine loom and timer relay/harness from autosparks for approx £100 altogether.
FlyingPete
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I used Vehicle Wiring Products as I recall. Buy two or three of the 8-way fuse holders, plus a bunch of crimp connectors of various sizes (or you could solder if you prefer). Once you've enlarged the hole in the mounting plate, it's a case of cutting the wires from the old fuse holders one-by-one and transferring them to the new blade holders. That way you don't get the wires mixed up.
nesponge
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just buy the correct fuse box holder... it's not too expensive
Part No: AMR 3138
https://www.lrdirect.com/AMR3138-Bracket-Fuse-Box/
£32.22 inc VAT
Part No: AMR 3138
https://www.lrdirect.com/AMR3138-Bracket-Fuse-Box/
£32.22 inc VAT
Richard Seddon
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CAUTION on Land Rover fuses, as you need to differentiate between "continuous" Amps, shown on the fuse box lid, and the "blow" ratings shown on the fuses. For example: the cover on my 1987 Ninety's fuse box says the front side lights are 2.5A. That is they draw a continuous current of 2.5A. However, the correct fuse will be labelled 5A. That's because the correct fuse is approximately double the continuous Amperage. Similarly, if your fuse box says 7.5A (continuous) then you'll not find a 7.5A fuse listed anywhere, because you need to fit a 15A fuse. ...confusing or what?!
Also, the older Land Rovers take 1" / 25mm fuses. 30mm fuses are too wide and will short on each-other.
When I first got my ex-military Ninety, I thought the army guys were mad. All the fitted fuses were double the Amps it said on the fuse box cover. It was only after blowing lots of 10A fuses that I researched about "continuous" and "blow" Amps. After which it all made sense.
Have fun,
Rick
Apparently these are direct replacements, I have not tried one yet but I have read about them in conversions, you need to drill and tap to screw them to the back plate.
https://www.durite.co.uk/itm/Blade-...E2ya2vjy6QdhxLOsXfVTsE4HApJD6Tg7i7g5HtpA8-AtM
https://www.durite.co.uk/itm/Blade-...E2ya2vjy6QdhxLOsXfVTsE4HApJD6Tg7i7g5HtpA8-AtM
flat
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Quite a useful thread resurrection this one, I have been fiddling with my fuse box recently lol
Richard Seddon
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Here's a question: WHY would anyone go to the tremendous trouble and cost of replacing the factory-fitted main fuse box, just so they can use spade fuses in place of traditional glass fuses?
Would I be correct in thinking that people are getting a lot of blown fuses? And that the faffing about involved in sending away for older-type one inch glass fuses, plus the relative ease with which inserting spade fuses makes all that cost and effort of doing the replacement worthwhile?
If these are your reasons, then you've got far bigger problems than seeking advice of getting and fitting a new fuse box. You MUST investigate why those fuses are blowing! Never, never ever, replace a blown fuse and think "job done"; you may have an intermittent electrical short that could lead to a fire in your 30+ something years old Landy. Indeed, I think I'm correct in saying that electrical fires are relatively common in old Land Rovers.
Ok, I've not had to change a single fuse in my 1987 Ninety for as far back as I can remember. In fact, not since I discovered the difference between "continuous" and "blow" fuse ratings, which led to me fitting the correct Amperage fuses and writing my first post on here.
Not one single blown fuse in many years.
So, how come I rediscovered this thread? Well, it popped up when I saw that a certain company had an "offer" on for 1" glass fuses, and I needed to remind myself (Google) what Amp rating fuses I might want to put into my spare bulbs and fuses box. I could only dimly recall that the ratings were NOT "what it says on the tin" (or fuse box cover), so to speak.
If you don't believe me, try searching Rimmer Bros website for a 35A 1" glass fuse. It says, "Fuse - 35 amp 17 amp Continuous - Glass type ... GFS3035 - Genuine MG Rover". Ok, it might have been more clearly written, but it is important you're aware of this, particularly if you're looking at blade vs glass fuse ratings. Fitting too small an Amperage fuse -- one that is designed to "blow" at an Amperage close to your "continuous" Amps -- this will cause that blade fuse to heat up, and while it might not blow for several months, that ain't a good thing. Things might be glowing behind your fuse box cover.
Apparently it all goes back to how the UK motor industry rated fuses, versus other countries, back in the day. In modern (international market) cars you fit the Amps rating it says on the fuse box, which is the continuous Amps rating. That's because the actual fuses are marked with their continuous Amps rating. Whereas on old Lucas/BMC vehicles, the manufacturer also tells you the continuous Amps rating, but the fuses themselves are marked with their so-called "instant blow" rating. Apples and Oranges, from the days when people were expected to be more knowledgeable. (Before the days of "dumbing down".) Put simply, they've changed the standards.
Remember, the purpose of any fuse is to "protect the wiring". So you must fit a fuse that is capable of handling the continuous Amps, but will melt before the wires do -- the so-called instant blow rating. And that gives us a problem, because you can't simply replace a 35A glass fuse with its equivalent 35A blade fuse. As I've said, the glass 35A fuse is designed to carry only 17A continuously, whereas the blade fuse is designed to carry 35A continuously, and I've no idea at what Amps it will actually blow, other than that your wiring is likely to start smoking before the fuse blows.
Consequently, not only do I question why you'd swap out the manufacturer's perfectly good original equipment glass fuse box, but also why you're entertaining all this cost and work, instead of diagnosing what's called "the problem behind the problem"?
Finally, don't forget that fitting a different fuse box is what your insurance company calls a "modification". If your beloved Landy has the misfortune of going up in smoke, then your insurance assessor will probably go straight to your shiny new fuse box. S/he'll ask whether it was fitted (or certified) by a qualified auto electrician and, as you probably didn't notify the "modification" to your insurers, you're unlikely to get a pay out.
Disclaimer: this post is based upon my personal understanding, but I am not a qualified auto electrician, therefore, it is for discussion purposes only, and you are responsible for undertaking your own research by consulting a qualified auto electrician who is familiar with classic car fuses. No responsibility is accepted for errors or omissions. The purpose of this post is to raise your awareness of the difference between "continuous" and "instant blow" Amps in automotive fuses, so you can have a sensible conversation with your classic car fuse supplier.
Good-luck,
Rick
Would I be correct in thinking that people are getting a lot of blown fuses? And that the faffing about involved in sending away for older-type one inch glass fuses, plus the relative ease with which inserting spade fuses makes all that cost and effort of doing the replacement worthwhile?
If these are your reasons, then you've got far bigger problems than seeking advice of getting and fitting a new fuse box. You MUST investigate why those fuses are blowing! Never, never ever, replace a blown fuse and think "job done"; you may have an intermittent electrical short that could lead to a fire in your 30+ something years old Landy. Indeed, I think I'm correct in saying that electrical fires are relatively common in old Land Rovers.
Ok, I've not had to change a single fuse in my 1987 Ninety for as far back as I can remember. In fact, not since I discovered the difference between "continuous" and "blow" fuse ratings, which led to me fitting the correct Amperage fuses and writing my first post on here.
Not one single blown fuse in many years.
So, how come I rediscovered this thread? Well, it popped up when I saw that a certain company had an "offer" on for 1" glass fuses, and I needed to remind myself (Google) what Amp rating fuses I might want to put into my spare bulbs and fuses box. I could only dimly recall that the ratings were NOT "what it says on the tin" (or fuse box cover), so to speak.
If you don't believe me, try searching Rimmer Bros website for a 35A 1" glass fuse. It says, "Fuse - 35 amp 17 amp Continuous - Glass type ... GFS3035 - Genuine MG Rover". Ok, it might have been more clearly written, but it is important you're aware of this, particularly if you're looking at blade vs glass fuse ratings. Fitting too small an Amperage fuse -- one that is designed to "blow" at an Amperage close to your "continuous" Amps -- this will cause that blade fuse to heat up, and while it might not blow for several months, that ain't a good thing. Things might be glowing behind your fuse box cover.
Apparently it all goes back to how the UK motor industry rated fuses, versus other countries, back in the day. In modern (international market) cars you fit the Amps rating it says on the fuse box, which is the continuous Amps rating. That's because the actual fuses are marked with their continuous Amps rating. Whereas on old Lucas/BMC vehicles, the manufacturer also tells you the continuous Amps rating, but the fuses themselves are marked with their so-called "instant blow" rating. Apples and Oranges, from the days when people were expected to be more knowledgeable. (Before the days of "dumbing down".) Put simply, they've changed the standards.
Remember, the purpose of any fuse is to "protect the wiring". So you must fit a fuse that is capable of handling the continuous Amps, but will melt before the wires do -- the so-called instant blow rating. And that gives us a problem, because you can't simply replace a 35A glass fuse with its equivalent 35A blade fuse. As I've said, the glass 35A fuse is designed to carry only 17A continuously, whereas the blade fuse is designed to carry 35A continuously, and I've no idea at what Amps it will actually blow, other than that your wiring is likely to start smoking before the fuse blows.
Consequently, not only do I question why you'd swap out the manufacturer's perfectly good original equipment glass fuse box, but also why you're entertaining all this cost and work, instead of diagnosing what's called "the problem behind the problem"?
Finally, don't forget that fitting a different fuse box is what your insurance company calls a "modification". If your beloved Landy has the misfortune of going up in smoke, then your insurance assessor will probably go straight to your shiny new fuse box. S/he'll ask whether it was fitted (or certified) by a qualified auto electrician and, as you probably didn't notify the "modification" to your insurers, you're unlikely to get a pay out.
Disclaimer: this post is based upon my personal understanding, but I am not a qualified auto electrician, therefore, it is for discussion purposes only, and you are responsible for undertaking your own research by consulting a qualified auto electrician who is familiar with classic car fuses. No responsibility is accepted for errors or omissions. The purpose of this post is to raise your awareness of the difference between "continuous" and "instant blow" Amps in automotive fuses, so you can have a sensible conversation with your classic car fuse supplier.
Good-luck,
Rick
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