Front lights

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Trumar

Trumar

Active Member
Posts
136
Location
Hemel Hempstead
I really could do with some help on the front lights wiring!! I pull the hazard switch and all 4 indicators flash but slowly on off. But if I use the indicator stalk I get nothing!! I have replace the old wiring for new I done one wire at a time but for some reason they just don’t work. If someone can help me out I would be very happy man lol. I have just purchased some wiring diagrams from a fella on eBay they are the best I have seen. Now as you probably can workout that I’m not the brightest when it comes to the wiring if you need more info from me I’m happy to write more.
 
Colthebrummie said:
Are you sure the indicator stalk works? Have you tested it with a multimeter? Is there a live feed to the stalk? If the hazard flasher unit is original, it may need replacing.

Col
Click to expand...
I’m saying yes the indicator stalk is working, I don’t have a multimeter I know I should get one, it’s just I have know idea which one to get, lol would you know of one I should have please? The hazard flasher definitely looks original I will have to try Buy a new one!
 
steve2286w said:
Can’t recall if there is two little metal boxes behind dash in mine , indicators and hazard

by the way don’t need to purchase wiring diagrams off eBay
They’re all here and more
http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/03/series-iii-workshop-manual/
Click to expand...
Two metal boxes now that is throwing me lol. I have taken out the screws to the dash panel and the wiring is mad there seems to be a lot of extra wires that seem to do nothing. My problem is I do not feel confident I could workout what wires are needed and what wires do nothing!
 
A cheap multimeter is all you need. As long as it measures dc voltage, amps and ohms. They cost about a tenner. The expensive ones can test capacitors and transistors, you dont need one of them. If you plan to do any work on the vehicles electrics a multimeter is a must. A test lamp will only get you so far. I cary my cheap meter in the landy at all times.

Col
 
Trumar said:
Two metal boxes now that is throwing me lol. I have taken out the screws to the dash panel and the wiring is mad there seems to be a lot of extra wires that seem to do nothing. My problem is I do not feel confident I could workout what wires are needed and what wires do nothing!
Click to expand...
Yes, its a right rats nest of wiring behind the dash. Be carefull, its very easy to disturb summat and then you find something else isnt working after you put it back together, on mine, its always the dash lights.

Col
 
Colthebrummie said:
Thats correct, there are two flasher units. When I replaced mie I bought the digital ones and replaced the bulbs with leds. They are much brighter than the originals.

Col
Click to expand...
There is no way I could replace the lights with led as I’m having enough problems getting the original lights to work lol. One question I have is can I put a battery charger onto the battery while I try to get the lights working? As what charge is in the battery doesn’t last long Or. Should I run the engine to keep the battery charged?
 
Colthebrummie said:
Yes, its a right rats nest of wiring behind the dash. Be carefull, its very easy to disturb summat and then you find something else isnt working after you put it back together, on mine, its always the dash lights.

Col
Click to expand...
Just to let you know I have got the dash lights to work also heater works and the windscreen wipers work! I have also got to wire in a safety switch the one with the big red key! I was going to wire it in through the live battery feed to the switch then onto the solenoid do you agree with this way of wiring in the switch??
 
Colthebrummie said:
A cheap multimeter is all you need. As long as it measures dc voltage, amps and ohms. They cost about a tenner. The expensive ones can test capacitors and transistors, you dont need one of them. If you plan to do any work on the vehicles electrics a multimeter is a must. A test lamp will only get you so far. I cary my cheap meter in the landy at all times.

Col
Click to expand...
I will go find one now thank you very much sir!
 
Have a search and read on here
22EE2543-2B63-456E-93F8-714014E32B04.png
 
The indicator lights all need a good earth to work properly as this allows the max current to flow , the flasher unit sees the current and makes and breaks contact to get the flash effect .
So check the earth connectors normally bullet type in the black sleeves need to pull them apart and clean with fine emery then a spray with wd40 , also check the indicator power wires
At the front the wires comes from loom to passenger side then separate wires to driver side , need to take plastic rad panel off to get to them
For rears take the corner covers off inside tub to get to them, I’ve got extra lights and tow bar wired in mine so yours may not be as busy as this
94126795-79D8-48DA-BB8E-365A0B75D94F.jpeg
 
Trumar said:
Just to let you know I have got the dash lights to work also heater works and the windscreen wipers work! I have also got to wire in a safety switch the one with the big red key! I was going to wire it in through the live battery feed to the switch then onto the solenoid do you agree with this way of wiring in the switch??
Click to expand...
Im not sure which type of red switch you have but the one I was looking at just had the positive lead from the battery going to it then another (thick) wire going from the other red switch contact to the solenoid. Is this what you mean? The red switch doesnt connect to the ignition switch. Be careful when routing the battery cable to the switch if its to be in the cabin, it will need to pass through the bulkhead and the hole shouldnt have any sharp edges otherwise the insulation will chaff and a calamity will ensue.

Col

Col
 
Yes that’s what I was thinking , it completely knocks out all electric in case of fire etc
Perhaps it could be fitted to engine side of bulkhead with handle on inside , gets rid of shorting risk?
 
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