front camber correction arms

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jolly77

New Member
Posts
83
hello all

I have a 2 inch lift kit fitted to my disco and wanted to fit 2 inch lift cups under the springs. Do i realy need to look at camber correction arms as well?

I was wondering if anyone has a 4 inch lift and has got away without fitting the correction arms

The vehicle is mostly for off road and will be hardly used at speeds over 40 mph

thanks in advance
 
Yes, you are.
Lifting the suspension has various adverse affects and few benefits. Some of the main ones at the front are -

Tilting of the axle which will put the castor out, which will prevent the steering self-centering properly.
Because the panhard rod is of a fixed length, the axle will be forced off-centre to the off-side, which will cause the vehicle to crab when driving.
The steeper propshaft angle will cause binding of the UJ yokes, causing vibration and premature wear.

The higher you lift it, the worse these things get and you still don't gain any clearance under the diffs, where it matters.

To do it properly, you need to correct the castor (preferably by fitting corrected swivel balls, not radius arms), fit an adjustable panhard rod and a wide-yoke prop.

There's more problems at the rear.....
 
Re: panhard rod. You have to lift the suspension by more than 4 inches for the offset to really matter. With a 'normal' 2 inch lift the offset is changed by less than a millimeter. Do you think that LR build to that sort of tolerance? :D

As for castor correction go with swivels or a rejigged front axle casing.

Wide angle yoke front prop is a fudge, a double cardon prop is the proper solution.

With a 4 inch lift the rear will possibly require an a-frame ball joint spacer and longer rear radius arms.

HTH
 
Couldn't measure a difference when I did mine. Checked with some simple trigonometry and found that 'less than a mm' to be the case.

However......'do you think that LR build to that sort of tolerance'.......maybe the reason you found a 6mm difference. :)
 
The higher you lift it, the worse these things get and you still don't gain any clearance under the diffs, where it matters.


Correct me here if I'm wrong, but....

to get more clearance under the diffs, you fit bigger and chunkier tyres right?
But to fit the big and chunkier tyres...you'll need cleareance on your wheel arches, therefore, cuting and lifting..?
 
[JP];787281 said:
Correct me here if I'm wrong, but....

to get more clearance under the diffs, you fit bigger and chunkier tyres right?
But to fit the big and chunkier tyres...you'll need cleareance on your wheel arches, therefore, cuting and lifting..?

How big do you want to go?
31" - no need to lift, just trim the arches.
33" - 2" lift needed.

Can't see any need for a 4" lift - unless yer wanna go stoopid.
 
Any bigger that 33" tyres and you also need to start looking at component upgrade, HD halfshafts etc etc etc ...

That's if you don't want to keep breaking things 'cos you've gone deeper into the ****e than you could before .. ;)
 
If the issue is just fitting bigger wheels and tyres why not lift the body to get the clearance, no geometry issues and seems a more sensible option.

IMHO a suspesion lift creates more problems than it solves unless it is ultimately articulation you need. I would hasten to add I haven't done a suspension lift because of the various potential problems but very interested in going for a body lift so I can use bigger tyres and increase clearance under the diffs.
 
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