Castor correction arms

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Mickob71

Mickob71

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Hello all, odd question, how do I tell if it fitted with castor correction arms be it 3 or 6 degrees or standard ? Are they stamped? Mine has a 2” body lift and 2” shock and spring lift I’m told when I got it in July.
Drove my mates with 3degree arms and the drive is totally different. Feels planted more and less wandery on the roads.
Mine has no anti roll bars on (removed by previous owner) and the other one hasn’t either.
Tracking is good on mine and run BFG KO2’s 245/70/16
Other one runs 265 /75 / 16 discoverer sst’s

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

It’s a 96 D1 300tdi auto
 
IMG_1085.jpeg
 
Just look at the angle of the nose on that diff and then compare it to a standard height car.
Iirc the track rod barely misses the diff casing, so it looks like you need quite some correction.
 
I need to find a standard one that’s not been faffed with, find a bench mark. Thanks @lynall , if anyone here has one that can take a cheeky photo of, I’d appreciate it
 
The black rod is the panhard rod, the rusty/dirty one is the drag link, the track rod is the one behind and under the diff that connects the front wheels together.
Do not forget the diff pinion bearing is splash fed, and it will not get much oil being that high an angle.
Are you sure they are standard front bushes in the arms?
 
My 90, though it is a 200, see the track riod running through that black square lump under the diff? that is the factory fit track rod protector.
Though I am not sure why changing the angle of the axle would change the track rod clearance as they are pretty much fixed in relation to each other, no matter what is done with the axle?

Screenshot 2025-03-02 at 17.13.23.png
 
lynall said:
The black rod is the panhard rod, the rusty/dirty one is the drag link, the track rod is the one behind and under the diff that connects the front wheels together.
Do not forget the diff pinion bearing is splash fed, and it will not get much oil being that high an angle.
Are you sure they are standard front bushes in the arms?
Click to expand...
As far as I am aware @lynall they are poly bushes and standard. All of this was fitted to it when I bought it, and it’s only after driving another I realised how bad mine was on the roads, never knew any different.
 
Mickob71 said:
As far as I am aware @lynall they are poly bushes and standard. All of this was fitted to it when I bought it, and it’s only after driving another I realised how bad mine was on the roads, never knew any different.
Click to expand...
Sorry by standard I meant not the angle correction bushes you can get.
 
lynall said:
Sorry by standard I meant not the angle correction bushes you can get.
Click to expand...
Yes, those are standard poly bushes. Im going to meet up with my mate this week and get under his and take some photos and compare angles, see what his is like at 3 degrees. May get an idea then. Something a clearly amiss
 
I now have my 3 degree arms and associated parts.
I’ve liberally sprayed the old bolts with pene in readiness so it should be easier to undo years of tightness, roll on weekend so I can fit them, hopefully this will cure it. All my fingers are crossed.
 
You'll need to watch the pinion angle on the front prop with the new arms, while the arms help solve the caster of the front wheels, they make the pinion angle worse and more likely to produce vibration and binding.

Ultimately it depends what you are wanting to achieve with the suspension and vehicle. If I read your earlier post correctly, you are running 4 inches of lift only to fit 245/70R16 tyres on?

I used to run 33.11.50R125's on my Discovery with stock suspension and no lift.

Also worth noting, a Discovery in stock form has the same suspension travel and lift as a Defender. Both of which are generally more than most other production vehicles. Its like Land Rover sold the vehicles with a lift kit already installed if you compare to similar era Jeeps, Toyotas and such.
 
300bhp/ton said:
You'll need to watch the pinion angle on the front prop with the new arms, while the arms help solve the caster of the front wheels, they make the pinion angle worse and more likely to produce vibration and binding.

Ultimately it depends what you are wanting to achieve with the suspension and vehicle. If I read your earlier post correctly, you are running 4 inches of lift only to fit 245/70R16 tyres on?

I used to run 33.11.50R125's on my Discovery with stock suspension and no lift.

Also worth noting, a Discovery in stock form has the same suspension travel and lift as a Defender. Both of which are generally more than most other production vehicles. Its like Land Rover sold the vehicles with a lift kit already installed if you compare to similar era Jeeps, Toyotas and such.
Click to expand...
Yes, I believe it’s 2 in body lift and 2in spring and shock lift, this was all fitted when I got it, so I cannot be sure, I going off what I was told at the time last July.
I’m only green laning in it and continental travel , want something capable and ok on the road as well, this won’t be going on play days, but will be going on a lot of gravel roads , sand and pit holey roads. I know it’s a trade off..
thanks for the heads up on the pinion angle. I’ll keep eye on that, if need be, I’ll put it back to standard on normal lift and and keep the body lift .
 
Fitted the arms yesterday.. 3 hours give or take with a brew , what a faff or a job, drifting out the old bolts was a pain, but all back together again, no longer drives like a shopping cart! Kept the old arms , just in case I decide I want to put it back to standard height.
Cannot actually believe how much it has made a difference.
 
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