freelander td4 rear door jammed

Dann, the solenoid has resistance, a few ohms. When the door is locked should I expect a permanent 12v on the solenoid? as I don't see it. I only see a pulse of voltage as I open and close the central locking.

Other oddbits -
1. The rear window works, but doesn't drop when I use the rear door handle.
2. When I manually operate the rear door lock, the car 'knows' the door is shut because the horn no longer beeps when I try the central locking. So its getting the signal.

Any further ideas?

thejazzlord said:

Dann, the solenoid has resistance, a few ohms. When the door is locked should I expect a permanent 12v on the solenoid? as I don't see it. I only see a pulse of voltage as I open and close the central locking.

Other oddbits -
1. The rear window works, but doesn't drop when I use the rear door handle.
2. When I manually operate the rear door lock, the car 'knows' the door is shut because the horn no longer beeps when I try the central locking. So its getting the signal.

Any further ideas?

Click to expand...

The voltage pulses are coming from the CCU to lock/unlock. providing the other cable to the solenoid is a good earth connection and from what you say about the solenoid resistance it should be working.

You've got to prove whether that solenoid is any good before going any further.I would power the solenoid directly with 12v from a car battery. If you fit a line fuse in the live cable it will prevent problems should you accidentally touch the cables together whilst connecting to the solenoid pins.
Good luck. D..

Dann, I took your advice, and yes when I apply 12v to the solenoid it activates, so you were correct in thinking its working. So if the solenoid is ok and I can see voltage pulses across is at the appropriate times, then does this mean a bad earth or connection sucking away voltage?

I just looked at the the circuit diagram and I can see that the two items that aren't working - rear door microswitch and door solenoid share a common earth, and then go back to a "header earth"....so maybe we are getting close.

I'm guessing I have to trace these back and look at each connection to find the problem? Any idea where the "head earth" is?

btw - I live close to the ocean and rust is always a problem!

Jeez.... your up early Jazz !

You are....I'm in Australia!

G'day. The earth header is at the base of the tail door hinge post (a bunch of black cables coming together at a plastic covered block) all the headers are numbered and their locations are shown in 'Electrical library'. It'll be bolted to bare metal and may be corroded as you say.

If cleaning the earth doesn't sort it, then the live impulse cable back to the CCU connector is the next suspect. D..

I've cleaned up the earth header, and checked a few more connections to no avail. I noticed that when I disconnect and then reconnect the connector that carries the live cables for the solenoid and the door switch that the solenoid actually fires and the rear window lowers slightly and the door pops open! But then zip afterwards, so I am completely baffled (not hard).

The only thing I can think of now is that the microswitch in the door is broken and this is somehow messing up the whole system preventing the CCU from telling the solenoid to fire and the door to lower. Does that sound plausible?

I'm thinking I might need professional help, which irks me terribly,

Mark

Don't give up now! we'll sort this if I have to fly to Sydney with my multimeter.

O.K Here's my theory: The microswitch operated by the tail door handle may have stuck closed circuit (as if you're pressing the handle up all the time) so the CCU is not getting an open/close signal. Therefore this would explain why things begin to happen when you make/break the multiplug connections. There is a small spring which drops the handle down again when you take your hand away. The spring is prone to rusting and falling to pieces causing the handle to stick up slightly (causing the microswitch to stay closed) see if you can pull the handle down slightly ( a wire hook will help)If this makes the switch release then fit a new spring. If not then you need to test the switch with a multimeter.

Cheers & beers.D..

Or I could ship the door to you! Actually something similar had occurred to me but I decided to not try tonight. I'll give that a go tommorow...I think I had a moment of weakness when I said I would give up!

I actually tried to take the whole handle off last week, then changed my mind half way through and sheared a bolt when I tightened the nuts back up. So I was trying to avoid going near it again.

To do what you suggested I assume I have to be inside the rear handle, so it will have to come off...? I think this is just taking off 4 nuts inside the door (one of which is now bust)?

btw I really appreciate your help! My wife is worried I'm not going to be able to put it all back together again.....I haven't done this since I used to wrestle with a Fiat 127 about 22 years ago. I'd convinced myself that cars had got too complex to work on yourself but after this experience I am not so sure.

O.K: Just think how pleased your wife will be when she sees it all back together and working (maybe she won’t notice the gaffer tape, bluetack and super glue at strategic points)

First job: put some oil on what’s left of the door handle retaining bolts. With luck the handle assembly can be left on but if you have to take it off be aware that the remaining bolts may either shear-off or tear out the ‘rivnuts’ moulded into the plastic structure.(I’ve been there!) then it’s a replacement handle or some expert bodging (my option).

Next: Use a torch and look up inside where you normally press up the finger plate to open the door. At one end there should be a small spring (or what’s left of it) designed to drop the finger plate back down thereby releasing the micro switch. A new spring can be fitted using fine nosed pliers. If the spring is o.k. (unlikely) then you need to check the operation of the microswitch with a multimeter.

Cheers & beers .D..

I got quite excited because there was a spring jamming the return of the mechanism. I unscrewed the finger plate screws and pulled it out. One of the screws was broken and jamming the mechanism the other is rusty but still functional. Despite this, when the mechanism working correctly I still get nothing! I also can't work out how to get the finger plate mechanism back into the handle. I got frustrated so gave up for a while before I started pushing too hard.

When I put the meter across finger plate switch at the connector just inside the car it measures 3.5v and stays like that even when I press the switch. Doesn't seem right?

Also, how come there are three wires going into the finger plate mechanism switch? The circuit diagram only indicates one?

I believe you may have found the original fault but the CCU is in a confused state as to where anything is i.e. window up/down?: Tail-door open/closed?

Re fingerplate operated switch: It should simply switch an earth back to CCU therefore 2 wires max? I wonder if you’re also checking the 2 wires which go to the number plate lamp?

If you’re operating the fingerplate switch with the door open not much is going to happen unless you rotate the door latch with a screwdriver so it’s pointing upwards this will cause the latch position sensor (next to solenoid) to signal door closed to CCU

D..

I got quite excited because there was a spring jamming the return of the mechanism. I unscrewed the finger plate screws and pulled it out. One of the screws was broken and jamming the mechanism the other is rusty but still functional. Despite this, when the mechanism working correctly I still get nothing! I also can't work out how to get the finger plate mechasim back into the handle. I got frustrated so gave up for a while before I started pushing too hard.

When I put the meter across finger plate switch at the connector just inside the car it measures 3.5v and stays like that even when I press the switch. Doesn't seem right?

Also, how come there are three wires going into the finger plate mechanism switch? The circuit diagram only indicates two?

The switch may have been changed on export models?

The 3.5v is coming from CCU and would normally become 0v when the switch closes to earth. You might try disconnecting the switch and testing it independently with an ohmmeter

D..

Don't you ever sleep?

When I was testing the rear latch switch I was doing it by having the tailgate window down and reaching out of the car whilst sitting in the boot rather than having the door open.

We must think alike because I also thought the car must have got 'confused' about the position of stuff by getting incorrect signals. I even disconnected the battery to see if that helped it work out where everything is.

I'll go and test the switch on its own (unsure why I didn't do that in the first place) and try and trace the three wires coming out of the switch (and photograph them for evidence).

You may be correct re the export models....to be continued.

Whats the record on the site for most number of posts on a topic?

Hi,

I'm about early anyway talking to business colleagues in Brisbane, Also I try not to post at night after taking grog.

Good luck with the switch testing. D..

Dann, it's 9:30pm and I am sitting here sipping a cool "coopers" beer in quiet celebration because I have found the problem! You instincts were quite correct, it was the microswitch in the handle which was jammed closed circuit.

After I had got the right circuit diagram (I had been looking at the wrong one for 2 days!) I was able to locate the correct wire and get the meter on it - it was permanently closed circuit whatever I did the handle. So I took a punt and cut the wire near the connector to make it open circuit. I then flicked the open wire together again and voila! The window dropped and the actuator fired!

Afterwards, in a cruel twist, I was maneouving the car and didn't notice a dustbin behind me which jammed itself under the whole rear handle and ripped it off! You can imagine I was a bit p****sed of after this but practically I will probably have to replace the whole handle anyway (he said phlisophically)

So, many thanks for you patient guidance, I would never have stood a chance without you. I've still got a way to go as I have to find a replacement part and then put it all back together again, so I might be back....

Where can I apply for a job as you offsider wrestling with TD4's?

Many regards

Mark

Great job Mark, I admire your perseverance, many people would have quit and paid through the nose for the ‘specialist’ to keep fitting parts until a fix was found.

It’s a lengthy job using text to and fro, I intend trying ‘voip’ live audio/video link via ‘Skype’ to bring the diagnosis time down.

You certainly didn’t deserve to have the bin tear off the handle. But hey that’s life.

Cheers & beers. Dann..

Well Done DANN, your a frigging hero !!!!!!!!!

ianda12 said:

Well Done DANN, your a frigging hero !!!!!!!!!

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Cheers,I appreciate that as your replies are always worth reading. D..