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Is there power on both sides of fuse 11 ??

You are being thrown some curved balls. As above. Look for supply voltage loss on things not working and trace it back.
 
Hi

You can look here for the earth points ( scroll all the way down ) :

www.landyzone.co.uk

Freelander 1 - [SOLVED] Electrical problems, possible CCU failure

Hello to all, wish you a happy new year and amazing holidays! I had an MOT recently, passed it somehow, friend there warned me about my rear window wiper was acting strange. Starting when you sound the horn and stuff like that. The vehicle is Freelander 1 2001, 2.0 TD4 112hp Automatic. Soon...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
 
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andyfreelandy said:
Is there power on both sides of fuse 11 ??

You are being thrown some curved balls. As above. Look for supply voltage loss on things not working and trace it back.
Click to expand...
Morning Andy, yeah I think your right all good intentions though it's one of those problems, that's got people scratching their heads, I today took the day off work, yesterday was a first aid refresher course so limited access to the motor. I did check the battery it's 7 years old, not 5. I put test kit on it, it's still running at 90%. So I don't think it's that, I will get back to the forum through out the day. TTFN
 
Entwhistel said:
Morning Andy, yeah I think your right all good intentions though it's one of those problems, that's got people scratching their heads, I today took the day off work, yesterday was a first aid refresher course so limited access to the motor. I did check the battery it's 7 years old, not 5. I put test kit on it, it's still running at 90%. So I don't think it's that, I will get back to the forum through out the day. TTFN
Click to expand...
Hi, sorry electrical problems aside, about 18 months maybe 2 years ago I problem with the rear diff and I went to a establishment that claimed to be in know when comes to Freelanders, and after the diagnosis I was informed that the problem was with the rear drive shafts needed replacing. So payed for shafts and everything seemed OK on drive back to Bristol. The problems came back so I got on the forum and quite few members recommended a company over in Nottingham, once they dropped the subframe they found it wasn't the drive shafts at all it bearing in the different, there are a couple bushes are mounted on diff and they are handed, when replaced the diff a pervious occasion, the fitted two new bushes both same hand.

Consequently the diff was now scrap, I was called into the workshop and shown the diff and the issues. Fortunately they second hand one and that was fitted.

Now you're probably thinking it the second company that caused the damage on the outer CV Joint you can clearly see in photo the thread is buggered. But the no need to take the hubs off, thet simply loward the rear subframe, obviously there is a bit more to it. And they let me stay in workshop to watch them refit all parts back together to get back on the road. So now not just the bearing has to be changed. Not impressed
Entwhistel said:
Morning Andy, yeah I think your right all good intentions though it's one of those problems, that's got people scratching their heads, I today took the day off work, yesterday was a first aid refresher course so limited access to the motor. I did check the battery it's 7 years old, not 5. I put test kit on it, it's still running at 90%. So I don't think it's that, I will get back to the forum through out the day. TTFN
Click to expand...
 

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Looks like someone went looney with the hammer (with the nut on), trying to get a shaft back into the diff.

Just be sure to re torque all that stuff correctly, and fit a new nut on the new shaft/s.
 
Good evening,
Well I think that we are getting to the bottom of it. I checked the fuses with my Micky mouse volt meter and yes all the fuses are fine. However when we tested the voltage coming from the fuses, all the fuses with a switch involved the voltage was down 3.5 volts, and less with the engine running.
Which leads us to believe that the fuse box isn't getting power to those accessories, broken wire, or knackered fuse box, but we jump the clock, by attaching a wire from the fog lights to the clock and the clock worked fine
Any ideas
 
Entwhistel said:
Good evening,
Well I think that we are getting to the bottom of it. I checked the fuses with my Micky mouse volt meter and yes all the fuses are fine. However when we tested the voltage coming from the fuses, all the fuses with a switch involved the voltage was down 3.5 volts, and less with the engine running.
Which leads us to believe that the fuse box isn't getting power to those accessories, broken wire, or knackered fuse box, but we jump the clock, by attaching a wire from the fog lights to the clock and the clock worked fine
Any ideas
Click to expand...
Hi

You can check earth points. Earth points are connected to directly to the car body.

Bad earth can prevent the CCU to work correctly.
 
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If the supply to the fuses is low by 3v or so then the problem is before the fuse box or a connector to it or cable.

Check for supply voltage on all the big fuses under the triangular case in the engine bay.

As previously suggested, it is a high resistance connector or cable dropping voltage.

When you say you 'jumped the clock' I assume you put a 12v feed to the clock supply line. This can cause damage splashing 12v around to equipment. Hope you got the right pins. What were you trying to prove by doing this? It is very likely that all equipment works. CCU, clock etc but you have lost supply.

Download circuits and check back from the low voltage on the fuses.

It'll be obvious when you find it !!
 
The problem is that the tester gives you voltage between 2 points.

If you test directly from the fuse box, but you need a ground. The problem can be that ground. It can be also the ”+12V”.

The diagram for electric Windows :

IMG_6609.jpeg


You have a fuse box in the engine bay. The fuse FL4 is for the full passenger fuse box ( one +12 wire ). The CCU comes also into play too.

The earth point for Windows is on the engine bay. The problem with earth point E2, is that you get many wires…

Also use a tester with caution. Check the contuinity of the wires, earth … And all the tests should always be done with the battery unpluged !!! Don’t use a wire to do testing …
 
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gt
andyfreelandy said:
If the supply to the fuses is low by 3v or so then the problem is before the fuse box or a connector to it or cable.

Check for supply voltage on all the big fuses under the triangular case in the engine bay.

As previously suggested, it is a high resistance connector or cable dropping voltage.

When you say you 'jumped the clock' I assume you put a 12v feed to the clock supply line. This can cause damage splashing 12v around to equipment. Hope you got the right pins. What were you trying to prove by doing this? It is very likely that all equipment works. CCU, clock etc but you have lost supply.

Download circuits and check back from the low voltage on the fuses.

It'll be obvious when you find it !!
Click to expand...
 
Fusible link 4 in the triangular under bonnet fusebox is worth a look. Feeds radio, ccu and windows.

Test voltage on both sides of the link with the black meter lead on battery negative.
 
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