Freelander 1 Freelander EV

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
I decided to order new seals for the rear diff as I didn't fancy trying to swap it with the one from my other car. Never mind the hassle, chances are the seals in it might not survive being swapped.

I think the car is trying to tell me something. :oops:

IMG_20230424_172902671.jpg


Draining the old oil
IMG_20230424_172031689.jpg

No signs of sparkles
IMG_20230424_172120775.jpg
IMG_20230424_174107786.jpg

I used a 3/8 ratchet to remove the filler plug.

IMG_20230424_174111313.jpg



Thankfully the diff seems to be in good condition with very little backlash and no sparkles in the oil. :)
I've ordered both seals and the middle diff mount.
 
Last edited:
Alibro said:
Have a look at the numbers of Freelanders for sale, there are very few F1 or F2 so they seem to be a dying breed. :(.
Click to expand...
I occasionally venture to my local scrappy for bits and bobs and I've noticed that FL1s appear less regularly now (there were generally always a few). D1s and D2s are uncommon but sometimes there, and I've seen two D3s in the last couple of years. There is often the odd Range Rover up to the mid 2000s vintage but I'm yet to see a single FL2! So based on my barometer of mid/west Cornwall scrappies, FL1s have reached their maximum thining out level and are now pretty much an enthusiat vehicle and FL2s are not falling off the road just yet. I reckon people are just hanging on to them.
 
After several months of procrastination I finally made the decision to cut down the fuel tank battery box and use it instead of the rear lower box.

Before (shortly after finishing it in 2021)
IMG_20210831_173523090.jpg


After
IMG_20230425_214613282.jpg
IMG_20230425_214602558.jpg
IMG_20230425_214736211.jpg


The bits cut off were for two small modules but they are not needed now as I'm putting four small modules in the fish bowl.
They were also making it very awkward to install the box and if kept I would have had to remove the rear subframe to get it in place.
I still need to weld up the side but after a test fitting it looks like it should be fairly easy to mount using the bolt holes for the fuel tank support frame and maybe brace it against the subframe. Routing the cables will be a bit more of a challenge but should be OK as the fuel pump access panel is directly above the box.
 
I like the idea of a battery forward of the rear wheels Ali. It'll help reduce the rear axle load a bit, allowing the front to take it instead. It won't be much, but anything that helps balance out the weight is good.
 
Nodge68 said:
I like the idea of a battery forward of the rear wheels Ali. It'll help reduce the rear axle load a bit, allowing the front to take it instead. It won't be much, but anything that helps balance out the weight is good.
Click to expand...

Agreed Nodge since we now know the front is nearly the same weight as standard.

Got a bit more done today and this evening.
Welded up the side that had big holes.
IMG_20230426_152820650_HDR.jpg

IMG_20230426_152831948.jpg


Then made brackets that hook onto the bolts which hold the rear seats down and the front fuel tank support.

IMG_20230426_210217060.jpg
IMG_20230426_210053561_HDR.jpg

IMG_20230426_210007487.jpg


These bolts hold the brackets that the rear seats hook onto when they are folded down so they are strong and perfectly placed for the job. I only had to replace them with longer bolts and it means the brackets can be shorter and simpler than they would have been if I'd used the rear fuel tank support holes.
Last job for the day was to successfully undercoat the box and brackets with only one (relatively) minor spillage. :oops:
 
Last edited:
Box and brackets primed with Bonda and top coat with Rustoleom. I'll be using seam sealer on the inside so this should be properly water tight.
IMG_20230428_193613475.jpg
IMG_20230428_193607451.jpg


I also spent way more time than I had intended chipping the crustier bits off the rear wheel arches and many of the rear frame rails before painting with Bonda primer. This car is in better cosmetic condition than my old car but it is worse underneath. :(
Although I chipped the crust off the rear subframe I didn't bother painting it. What do you guys think, is it likely to rust through in the next couple of years if I don't paint it?
I was thinking of removing the subframe from my old car before scrapping it so I would have a chance to clean it up properly before painting and keep it as a spare.
 
Last edited:
andyfreelandy said:
Keep any good subframes, they are getting rare now without rot or very rusted suspension mounts. As discussed on here, F1 are rare on scrapyard and I had this confirmed when looking for parts recently.
Click to expand...

Yes I think I'll do that. I just today realised how easy it is to remove the subframe by taking out the four bolts holding the suspension links and four big bolts keeping it up.
Today I fitted two drive shaft seals and a new front mount for the rear diff so with the brakes sorted the next step is to prep the under-bonnet for the leccy parts.
 
Alibro said:
Yes I think I'll do that. I just today realised how easy it is to remove the subframe by taking out the four bolts holding the suspension links and four big bolts keeping it up.
Today I fitted two drive shaft seals and a new front mount for the rear diff so with the brakes sorted the next step is to prep the under-bonnet for the leccy parts.
Click to expand...
Progress comes in small increments, with the occasional big leap :D
 
I had no intention of turning this into a restoration but some bits were just too crusty to leave. I hope to keep this car for two or three years at least so thought I might as well put some paint on the worst bits.
I happened to have a spare front subframe so although the one on this car is not too bad the bolts and saddles holding the anti roll bar to the subframe are a real mess. :(

So the spare has a coat of red oxide and will be getting black tomorrow.
IMG_20230505_215846136.jpg


I also rebuilt the frame to hold the vacuum pump as this needs to be installed before the rest of the EV kit is bolted in. The area it is going will not be accessible afterwards.

IMG_20230505_231844089_HDR.jpg

I found some pipe the right diameter to fit the rubber side mounts and some hose for the bottom mount. After some welding, grinding, cutting cause it didn't fit and more welding and grinding this is the result.

IMG_20230505_231854475_HDR.jpg


The small bracket will bolt to the large one to hold the pump securely.
The last effort was so ugly it went straight into the bin. :oops:

I had been pondering how to secure this unit for months because there are no bolts or welded nuts in the area I wanted to put it. Then a couple of days ago I realised there is a great big hole through the bulkhead where the master cylinder was.
So an M12 bolt and a couple of washers later and I now have something to secure it too. :)

IMG_20230505_231940210.jpg
 
Last edited:
rob_bell said:
What is the process of getting the DVLA to re-classify a vehicle's emission classification? I want to convert my MGF - not to electric straightaway, but to EU3 or EU4 (which would be straightforward and would avoid the need to pay the ULEZ charge everytime I drive my car). But if I did that, would I then be prohibited from re-classifying it again further down the road???
Click to expand...
Don't wish to hijack the thread, but stumbled on this today. There's been quite a bit of chat about MGF conversion, and ease or not, on this thread. So thought I'd bung it up here for encouragement to those considering.

http://www.evalbum.com/5560

It look like a great EV conversion of an MG TF. 200km range from a 30kwh battery pack and comes in weighing only 100kg more than stock ICE - so the owner says.

5560c.jpg
 
GrumpyGel said:
It look like a great EV conversion of an MG TF. 200km range from a 30kwh battery pack and comes in weighing only 100kg more than stock ICE - so the owner says
Click to expand...
Interesting conversion.

There seems to be a huge myth going about that EVs are much heavier, than the ICE counterpart. This is simply an exaggeration probably started by the oil companies.
In reality all cars have got heavier over the years. The VW Golf for instance has doubled in weight from under 800kg in 1976 to over 1600k in 2020, which is the same across all vehicles. Yes EVs are a little heavier, but only 5% or so, definitely nothing like the claims I've heard.
 
Nodge68 said:
Interesting conversion.

There seems to be a huge myth going about that EVs are much heavier, than the ICE counterpart. This is simply an exaggeration probably started by the oil companies.
In reality all cars have got heavier over the years. The VW Golf for instance has doubled in weight from under 800kg in 1976 to over 1600k in 2020, which is the same across all vehicles. Yes EVs are a little heavier, but only 5% or so, definitely nothing like the claims I've heard.
Click to expand...
As mentioned in my video my EV is only 90kg heavier than a standard TD4 with a 38kWh battery pack. When you go to 100kwH and more then the cars are currently much heavier but battery technology is improving all the time so this is reducing every year.
The motor looks perfect on the F/TF subframe but from the experience of another EV builder in Openinverter it is very difficult to package the batteries in an F/TF without cutting panels. The bonnet is very low with no obvious locations and putting them all in the engine bay will make the car very tail heavy. The guy in Openinverter removed the passenger seat and put a load there which is something I wouldn't consider.
 
Yesterday I was going through the things I need to do before removing the kit from the test mule and it dawned on my I had no way of securing the four small modules in the fish tank.
So I made this.

IMG_20230510_170701216.jpg


It was just a bit of off cut steel hence the irregular shaped sides but as I couldn't be bothered trimming it to shape it stayed this way. 😝

IMG_20230511_121505194.jpg

IMG_20230511_121858567.jpg

I was going to make up a support for the left side but having tested it I really don't think it's necessary.
So I think I've put off the big job for long enough and it's time to start stripping the test mule, painting the boxes and refitting them to the good car.
BTW you might notice the seam sealer around the edge of the fish tank, I also applied it to the underside along with several coats of paint. Hopefully this will be enough to keep things dry. ;)
 
Last edited:
Keep your eye on the carpet in the back in case you get water coming in through the door/window.

I put a rubber mat in mine and didn't notice for ages (years?) that water was getting in and going under the mat. Everything was sodden.
 
GrumpyGel said:
Keep your eye on the carpet in the back in case you get water coming in through the door/window.

I put a rubber mat in mine and didn't notice for ages (years?) that water was getting in and going under the mat. Everything was sodden.
Click to expand...
Good point. I'll need a good way to confirm it is dry in the fishbowl and that's as good a way as any.
I have the boot carpet completely dry again so I'll cut out the bits necessary and refit it before installing the boot battery box.
 
After many attempts to stop my tool box filling with water, finally cracked it after fitting a new tailgate seal. Well a secondhand one carefully removed. £20 is better than £200 !!
 
Alibro said:
I think mine is OK but will keep an eye on it.
Click to expand...
My TD4 SE was perfectly dry. However my V6 always leaked, regardless of what I tried. I drilled a small hole in the lowest part of the fish tank in the end, which allowed the water to drip onto the rear box.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
[15564]-[#altbin@EFNet]-[FULL]-[8mm.DVDR.NTSC]-[032/103] - "8mm.r28" yEnc (18/79)
Replies
0
Views
3K
Mustypwnzj00
M
Back
Top