Flex plate question...

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Little will iv pmd you with a phone number just read my emails you can shift box back on a jack with a sheet of wood and a couple of ratchet straps feel free to call if i miss the call drop a text and il ring back
 
Ok so I've stripped the p38 rave said there should be 4 bolts securing the flex plate to the touqe convertor however it's a triangle and I can only see 3 bolts. Is raver lieing or am I missing something?
 
Ok so I've stripped the p38 rave said there should be 4 bolts securing the flex plate to the touqe convertor however it's a triangle and I can only see 3 bolts. Is raver lieing or am I missing something?
There are many mistakes in RAVE, if it's triangular and comes off with 3 bolts, that would sound about right. Never done one though.
 
Thank you. Is there a way of locking the fly wheel. When trying to undo theses bolts the whole lot moves

Bottom of the dipstick, across to the right and then under an overhand is a plastic plug. Pull it out. A timing pin or 9mm drill bit (reversed!) should fit in at TDC. Turn engine clockwise only.

Or breaker bar on crankshaft nut and rest it against a chassis member, perhaps?
 
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Cheer Grrr. It's all stripped down but could get the flex bolts out as I'm struggling with access. When I do get on one the whole bloody lot span. Will the flywheel thing take strain of me cracking the bolts off?
 
Cheer Grrr. It's all stripped down but could get the flex bolts out as I'm struggling with access. When I do get on one the whole bloody lot span. Will the flywheel thing take strain of me cracking the bolts off?

I don't know to be honest. Need someone with more experience. The flywheel is pretty solid but I'm not sure the casing is.

Breaker bar on the cranknut can take quite a lot, I'd guess. Takes a lot to do it up! Again though, you're talking to a bodger. Someone who actually knows tolerances like Wammers or Saint or Datatek would be a lot more use.
 
There is a triangle type 3 bolt. I've only done the 4 bolt types but the trick is to push up towards the centre of the crank so the torque you're using doesn't spin the crank.
 
There is a triangle type 3 bolt. I've only done the 4 bolt types but the trick is to push up towards the centre of the crank so the torque you're using doesn't spin the crank.

Would reconnecting the handbrake momentarily and putting it on help at all? I guess you could even just tighten it up at the back until it locks.
 
You cannot lock the crank via the gearbox, the torque convertor will always let it spin.
I use a big spanner on the front crank nut across to a chassis leg to lock the crank, it's done up horrendously tight so no risk of it coming loose.
 
Ok so I fitted my new flex plate over the weekend. It wasn't that hard to do really. A lot of time was spent carefully reading RAVE. Took it on a 72mile trip on Sunday afternoon and the vibration seems to have gone!!! It also seems to idle a lot quieter but maybe I'm just thinking that. I'd say that although it was a ball ache to do on my back. I took my time over the weekend and wasn't bad.

In conclusion I'm glad I bit the bullet and just did it!
 
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