Flashing f4 and yellow decent light on

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Hippo said:
I have copied yer results into the list below (taken from the text under the video ont you tube) as it's easier for us to see which sensors/solenoids are reading good/bad when listed against the names and tolerances.

Black = hippo wrote
Blue = hippo concerns and request to measure
Red = Shuan4456 measured results

May I ask the make and model of meter yer bought? Also is there a battery warning symbol on the display. If so then resistance measurements can be a bit out if the battery is going flat.

It looks like you still have a fault on the same solenoid you replaced. I assume you had the 2-4 brake duty solenoid valve replaced as per the diagnostic screen from yer earlier post?

I'm wondering if the correct solenoid was replaced. There's two with similar names:
2 - 4 brake and 2-4 timing.
I can't remember if they're physically the same. The resistance of the coil will measure a different value. Yer never know if the diagnostic machine has the right text against the fault code picked up unless tested. The results show a short (low resistance near zero) across the measured wires which shouldn't be there.

Can you measure the solenoid you took out? Measure between the tab the electrical wire connects too, and the metal case of the solenoid. What is the resistance?


Method 1: Sensor resistance limits (connector C0243)
Pin 1 - 2 = 524 = Turbine speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
Pin 3 - 4 = missing pins = Intermediate speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
The intermediate sensor was missing from later model Freelander's as it wasn't needed and thought to be a popular fail on a certain batch of gearboxes.

Pin 5 - 6 = 530 = Vehicle speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
Pin 7 - 8 = no reading = Fluid temperature sensor See Table Below
Strange. Yer should be reading from the list below depending ont temperature of the auto and fluid inside:
-40 degrees C = 54900 ohms
-20 degrees C = 16700 ohms
00 degrees C = 6020 ohms
20 degrees C = 2500 ohms
40 degrees C = 1160 ohms
60 degrees C = 590 ohms
80 degrees C = 330 ohms
100 degrees C = 190 ohms
140 degrees C = 80 ohms

Method 1: Solenoid resistance limits (connector C0243)
Pin 18 is the common for all solenoid measurements.
Pin 9 - 18 = 15.8 = Shift solenoid valve A (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 10 - 18 = no reading = Shift solenoid valve B (14 to 18 ohms)
No reading on the above but the same item reads ok from the computer connector below which proves the wiring is ok through the barrel connector. Hopefully this isn't a problem. If it were you wouldn't be able to change from 3rd to 4th gear.

Pin 11 - 18 = 15.7 = Shift solenoid valve C (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 12 - 18 = 15.7 = Low clutch timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 13 - 18 = 0.18 = 2-4 brake timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
This is a concern. Can you measure the following:
Pin 13 to gearbox case
Pin 18 to gearbox case (just curious but this should be ok as it's a common and the others are ok)
Pin 13 to pin 17 (a loop though two solenoids)

Pin 14 - 18 = 16.6 = Reduction timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 15 - 18 = 3.5 = Line pressure duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms)
Sometimes this is slightly out due to quality of connection and meter reading I think. Also the loop resistance of the wiring harness.

Pin 16 - 18 = 3.6 = 2-4 brake duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms)
Sometimes this is slightly out due to quality of connection and meter reading I think. Also the loop resistance of the wiring harness.

Pin 17 - 18 = 13 = Lock-up solenoid valve (12 to 13.2 ohms)



Method 2: Sensor resistance limits (connector C0932)
Pin 5 - 20 = no reading = Vehicle speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
This was ok in the above test
Pin 21 - 20 = no reading = Intermediate speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
We think this is missing and will be ok
Pin 24 - 20 = no reading = Turbine speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
Worked ok in the above test
Pin 39 - 20 = no reading = Fluid temperature sensor See Table Below
As said above yer should read something

Method 2: Solenoid resistance limits (connector C0932)
Pin 17 is the common for all solenoid measurements.
Pin 3 - 17 = 3.9 = 2-4 brake duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms)
As said above this is slightly out due to quality of connection and meter reading I think. Also the loop resistance of the wiring harness.

Pin 4 - 17 = 1 = 2-4 brake timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
This is a concern. Can you measure:
Pin 4 to gearbox case
Pin 17 to gearbox case
Pin 4 to pin 16 (a loop though two solenoids)

Pin 10 - 17 = 16.5 = Reduction timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 14 - 17 = 16.6 = Shift solenoid valve B (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 15 - 17 = 16.4 = Shift solenoid valve A (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 16 - 17 = 13.3 = Lock-up solenoid valve (12 to 13.2 ohms)
Pin 17 - 18 = 4.1 = Line pressure duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms)
As said above this is slightly out due to quality of connection and meter reading I think. Also the loop resistance of the wiring harness.

Pin 52 - 17 = 16.4 = Shift solenoid valve C (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 53 - 17 = 16 = Low clutch timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
Click to expand...
Hi
The test meter I used was mega cheap one was new but cheepo

Is there any other way to test
fluid temperature

Car had dinostics done and pinged up
2/4 brake duty selonoid
But was not resistance checked

Boy tested old one when was taking out was goosed and checked new one before fitting new one

Will test fir 2/4 brake timing selonoid tomorrow

Freelander 2005 td4 2lt automatic

Starts with no lights
But soon as put in rev or drive
F4 and yellow decent pop up

1st gear
Rev
But in drive it's feels like 4th
No 2nd gear ,feels like 4th
 
Yer auto has a number of sensors to take measurements and 3 solenoid valves it switches on and oft in a pattern in order to control the flow of auto fluid to the different clutch packs. This makes the clutches slip or not slip, which allows drive power to flow through the different gear set options. That's kind if how it controls gear changes.

Yer has a problem on the 2-4 brake timing solenoid. Its value is near zero which is a short circuit. The fault is either the solenoid coil failed short circuit or more likely a trapped or snagged wire ont metalwork. The metal is at ground potential (same as 0volt on the negative battery terminal) so any voltage applied to control the solenoid is killed as it's shorted out.

There's only one way to measure the temperature sensor. By resistance. It's a temperature dependent resister which does as per it's name. To get to it yer need to take the auto gearbox oft the engine. They rarely fail. For some strange reason yours measures a high resistance which is better known as open circuit. Open as in there is a break in the loop. This could be the sensor itself or more likely the wires to it.

The yellow lamp on the dash. When does it come on? When yer press the revs but only when in D or R? Wot about reving in N... does it come on? Yer may also have a pedal switch fault.

Does the dash display and the led's by the gear lever always read correct position of the gear lever?
 
Hippo said:
Yer auto has a number of sensors to take measurements and 3 solenoid valves it switches on and oft in a pattern in order to control the flow of auto fluid to the different clutch packs. This makes the clutches slip or not slip, which allows drive power to flow through the different gear set options. That's kind if how it controls gear changes.

Yer has a problem on the 2-4 brake timing solenoid. Its value is near zero which is a short circuit. The fault is either the solenoid coil failed short circuit or more likely a trapped or snagged wire ont metalwork. The metal is at ground potential (same as 0volt on the negative battery terminal) so any voltage applied to control the solenoid is killed as it's shorted out.

There's only one way to measure the temperature sensor. By resistance. It's a temperature dependent resister which does as per it's name. To get to it yer need to take the auto gearbox oft the engine. They rarely fail. For some strange reason yours measures a high resistance which is better known as open circuit. Open as in there is a break in the loop. This could be the sensor itself or more likely the wires to it.

The yellow lamp on the dash. When does it come on? When yer press the revs but only when in D or R? Wot about reving in N... does it come on? Yer may also have a pedal switch fault.

Does the dash display and the led's by the gear lever always read correct position of the gear lever?
Click to expand...
Hi The yellow decent only comes on when gear stick moved from nutrial or park

Can rev car and no lights come on at all

Only when I move gear stick it threws f4 and yellow decent lights on
 
Thanks every one for help.
Found problem in end
I had worn wire rubbed in engine so shorted out.

Thanks again

Without your info and help I be still stuck


I so owe use a drink
 
Car drives brill and no lights flashing

But to put in gear now feels really stiff

Can live with stiff gear shift

But wondered if it simple problem to fix
 
Shaun4456 said:
But to put in gear now feels really stiff
Click to expand...

The gear selection is done with a cable. So was anything done that can affect the cable? I've come across 1 where the lever on the gearbox was dragging on the under tray, causing stiffness of the gear lever.
 
Nodge68 said:
The gear selection is done with a cable. So was anything done that can affect the cable? I've come across 1 where the lever on the gearbox was dragging on the under tray, causing stiffness of the gear lever.
Click to expand...
Not sure as I had some one do selonoid/wire problem
Will need look
Skid plate not been on car in weeks
Will need go look incase he hit sone thing on test run .
Hope it something simple
Drives amazing again But putting in drive so stiff
 
Nodge68 said:
It could be the cable has got wet and corroded. The under try does help keep the cable protected from road spray and impact damage.
Click to expand...
Just took cable of
Its free
No problems

It just stiff from gear box
But drives okay

Once in drive it goes alone no problem

Could live with it as it's only stiff

Just worried it's causing damage if stiff
 
Shaun4456 said:
Just took cable of
Its free
No problems
Click to expand...
That's weird.
Shaun4456 said:
Just worried it's causing damage if stiff
Click to expand...
The lever on box operates the selector switch and the park pawl. It shouldn't be that stiff, unless park is released while the vehicle is on a hill, when it can come out of park with a bang.

It sounds like some further investigations are done, as you don't want it causing damage .
 
Nodge68 said:
That's weird.
The lever on box operates the selector switch and the park pawl. It shouldn't be that stiff, unless park is released while the vehicle is on a hill, when it can come out of park with a bang.

It sounds like some further investigations are done, as you don't want it causing damage .
Click to expand...
Took cable of from gear box.
But gear stick moved freely

Not sure how to check gear box now

But gear change was fine before car Was fixed
 
Shaun4456 said:
Thanks every one for help.
Found problem in end
I had worn wire rubbed in engine so shorted out.

Thanks again

Without your info and help I be still stuck

I so owe use a drink
Click to expand...
It's good to hear it's resolved. Eye'll have a cerryade with an umbrella.
 
Some pic's of the shape of the metal lever under the jatco to compare yours against.

MNkPShY.jpg

P4051811 MNkPShY

HuQYElR.jpg

P9171139 HuQYElR
 
Hi i checked the gear leaver with cable disconnected from gear box

Was free

Still got sticky gear stick

Not like braking arm to put in drive
Just feels stiff

Could it be the brake pedal switch not working right??

There is no light flashing etc

Drives well just stiff gear stick
Notice in drive with foot on drake it's a bit juddery
 
Is the fluid type and level correct?

Something is wrong, as the gear selector should move freely, except for the small detent keeping it locked in the selected position.
 
I used the auto fluid I was told to use on hear
Flid levels was done

Left engine running till got above 35 0c to 45 0c opened valve at 40 with laser temp gun
Had car running
Stopped car ans topped up 1\2 lt

Started it till temp was 40 again and opened valve with engine running till fluid stopped running out

It not braking arm yo change gear
Just feels stiffer than was before
 
Hi all. Thought I'd add onto this tab instead of creating a new one !

I have a 2006 FL1 2.0 TD4

F4 and orange HDC light present as soon as put in D . N&D illuminates Simultaneously.

Does not change gear in sports mode .



I've changed the 2/4 brake duty solenoid and done some resistance tests as follows



co243 (left hand side larger barrel)

Started with all the sensors .

Turbine pin sensor pin 3-4 - 585 ohms

Vehicle speed sensor 5-5 - 582 ohms

Fluid temp sensor pin 7-8 - 1651ohms ( car was warm so about right )

All sensors tested within range .

Next I've tested all the solenoids on the same barrel plug .

Shift solenoid a - 174 ohms way out

Shift solenoid b - 177 ohms way out

Shift solenoid c - 176 ohms way out

Low clutch timing solenoid- 172 ohms way out

2-4 brake timing solenoid- 175 ohms way out

Reduction timing solenoid - 170 ohms

Lock up solenoid - 140 ohms

Line pressure ssolenoid- 037 ohms

2-4 brake duty solenoid- 035 ohms



I THEN CHECKED FROM C0932

MAIN TCM PLUG results are as follows



.vehicle speed sensor pins 5-20 1700 ohms



.intermediate speed sensor pins 21-20 1 ohms ●Open circuit?●



.turbine speed sensor pins 24-20 1 ●I belive only the v6 has this ? Using a v6 specs with a jacto Box●



.Fluid temp sensor pins 39-20 1 ohms ●? Open circuit ? This tested good at the barrel plug?●



Solenoids tested from C0932



.2/4 brake duty solenoid pins 3-17 flashes 1500ohms upwards ?



.2/4 brake timing solenoid pins 4-17 flashing 807 ohms upwards?



.Reduction timing solenoid pins 10-17 flashing 400ohms upwards?



.shift solenoid valve A B & C pins 15-17 14-17 52-17 flashing 1300 300 176 ohms ?



.lock up solenoid pins 16-17 flashing 1100 ohms upwards



.line pressure duty solenoid pins 17-18 526 ohms



.shift solenoid c pins 52-17 176 ohms

●funnily enough this is the only one to share the same resistance as tested at barrel plug



.low clutch timing solenoid pins 53-17 210 ohms



Any ideas ? Am I simply looking for a short/ open circuit? Or should I be focusing else where

Thanks
 
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