F4 HDC AMT mulpile signals

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It sounds like the gearbox control cable is out of synchronisation, and needs adjustment.
The cable turns a crank on the bottom of the box, which then links a rotating rod through the box to the switch module on the top.
The gear selector lever has sensors, which light the lights, and also tell the TCM where the lever is. The TCM also gets signals from the box switch module, and compares the two. If the cable adjustment isn't correct, then the TCM gets conflicting data, so it assumes a fault, and sends the F4 signal to the dash LCD. There is a setting procedure in the workshop manual, which needs to be followed to set the relative positions, or it'll never work correctly.
 
Have you tried moving the inhibitor switch by loosening the 2 10mm head bolts? There isn't much adjustment but it might be enough to stop the 2 lights illuminating at the same time. Also check the white insert in the XYZ (inhibitor switch) is lined up as in the pic. As said mark bits before you loosen anything. Should have said this is in P & there is a keyway in the shaft coming out of the g/box that the white plastic bit in the XYZ switch slides onto, be careful with the switch as the white plastic bit (in the middle of the switch) will be brittle after all this time & you don't want to snap the lug off it which locates it on it's shaft,all the best.
 

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Thankya both very much lads
I've ordered a Haynes manual so I'll look into the syncronisation of the gearbox control cable when that arrives !
In the mean time I'll scribe around this inhibitor switch and have a play with the adjustment.
Thank you both tho !
 
SouthYorks said:
Back again with more foolish questions !
I'm hoping you are a man of patience here.
So got the nut off , measured the excess rod for reassembling.
Removed said nut and let the rod hang loose then turned ignition on engine off and changed through my gears. Park stays illuminated regardless of what gear I put her in.
I'm assuming you meant change gear with the gear stick and not the selector on the gearbox itself .
Do you make this to be a normal response?
In my head I imagine it should still be illuminating each separate gear regardless of what the box is doing ?

Thanks again for reading through the waffle 🧇
Click to expand...
Sorry about that. I assume both barrel connectors were connected as normal? I thought it would allow us to independently check the Led's. Its been some years since I did this to my v6. I must have fudged somefink at the time. Connect the gearbox up as it was before by putting the nut back, using yer marker or measurement.

I think You either have the electronics around the gear lever sensing D and N at the same time by mistake of them being faulty. Or cable/gearbox switch damage. If it were the selector position wrong then you normally only see one Led illuminated, not two. Like putting it in N and D's Led illuminates. Wobble the selector and it corrects itself.

Disconnect the gear selection barrel connector and measure between pins 1 and 2, on both sides of the same barrel connector. Can you find a low resistance with the ignition oft?

Pin / option
1 Drive
2 Neutral
3 position 2
4 position 4
5 position 1
6 inhibit
7 reverse
8 reverse and common
9 park
10 inhibit
 
Hippo said:
Sorry about that. I assume both barrel connectors were connected as normal? I thought it would allow us to independently check the Led's. Its been some years since I did this to my v6. I must have fudged somefink at the time. Connect the gearbox up as it was before by putting the nut back, using yer marker or measurement.

I think You either have the electronics around the gear lever sensing D and N at the same time by mistake of them being faulty. Or cable/gearbox switch damage. If it were the selector position wrong then you normally only see one Led illuminated, not two. Like putting it in N and D's Led illuminates. Wobble the selector and it corrects itself.

Disconnect the gear selection barrel connector and measure between pins 1 and 2, on both sides of the same barrel connector. Can you find a low resistance with the ignition oft?

Pin / option
1 Drive
2 Neutral
3 position 2
4 position 4
5 position 1
6 inhibit
7 reverse
8 reverse and common
9 park
10 inhibit
Click to expand...
Don't be daft pal , appreciate the help !
But yep barrel plugs were both sparkling clean , tight and fitted as standard .

I'll jump out there tonight and see if I can get some different readings from the back of the plugs though, definitely something not to overlook !
 
Andy Warren said:
Have you tried moving the inhibitor switch by loosening the 2 10mm head bolts? There isn't much adjustment but it might be enough to stop the 2 lights illuminating at the same time. Also check the white insert in the XYZ (inhibitor switch) is lined up as in the pic. As said mark bits before you loosen anything. Should have said this is in P & there is a keyway in the shaft coming out of the g/box that the white plastic bit in the XYZ switch slides onto, be careful with the switch as the white plastic bit (in the middle of the switch) will be brittle after all this time & you don't want to snap the lug off it which locates it on it's shaft,all the best.
Click to expand...
Funnily enough I've just gone outside to clean the inhibitor switch and play with its alignment as you mentioned.
On doing so I noticed the marking dot does not seem to align as shown in your picture.
I've attached a image below, if anyone could tell me if that's correct or not before I start removing things ! Thanks again lads
 

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SouthYorks said:
Funnily enough I've just gone outside to clean the inhibitor switch and play with its alignment as you mentioned.
On doing so I noticed the marking dot does not seem to align as shown in your picture.
I've attached a image below, if anyone could tell me if that's correct or not before I start removing things ! Thanks again lads
Click to expand...
Hi, was that in park or neutral ? I haven't got mine any more as I donated it to my son about two weeks ago otherwise I'd take some pics of it. When I refitted the box & with the selector cable disconnected, I had it in P (which is where I left it when I removed the box) pushed the lever on the bottom of the box all the way forward then reconnected the cable. (That's when my problems started as it just showed D1 in the display & by the gear lever) The Rave manual shows a tool for correct alignment of that XYZ switch but as long as those dots are lined up on the switch (in Park) it should be close enough & might only need a little 'tweak' with what limited adjustment there is by slackening the two 10mm headed bolts. I doubt there's enough adjustment to realign the 'dots' on the switch but it won't hurt to try.
 
Andy Warren said:
Hi, was that in park or neutral ? I haven't got mine any more as I donated it to my son about two weeks ago otherwise I'd take some pics of it. When I refitted the box & with the selector cable disconnected, I had it in P (which is where I left it when I removed the box) pushed the lever on the bottom of the box all the way forward then reconnected the cable. (That's when my problems started as it just showed D1 in the display & by the gear lever) The Rave manual shows a tool for correct alignment of that XYZ switch but as long as those dots are lined up on the switch (in Park) it should be close enough & might only need a little 'tweak' with what limited adjustment there is by slackening the two 10mm headed bolts. I doubt there's enough adjustment to realign the 'dots' on the switch but it won't hurt to try.
Click to expand...
Cheers dude , turns out the timing of the switch itself was fine. I was looking in park where as your meant to check the timing marks in neutral.
When in neutral they all align as should .
 
So quick update for anyone still following along.
I'm currently still awaiting a manual so I can figure out how to syncronise the gear selector cable as sujested earlier in this thread.
Also awaiting a very expensive xyz switch (£165 6 month warranty)

anyway today while driving In D, neutral & drive illuminated ,Orange HDC light & flashing F4 code present as always .
I decided to apply a tiny bit of pressure on the gearstick (towards 4 but not enough to engage) anyway as said earlier in this thread the neutral light dissapers ! But more to the point the f4 code dissappears also ! Leaving me with just a Orange HDC light
Now at this point I've tried to slide it across into SM to see if all works .. it doesn't though . When I apply pressure to the gear lever (to remove f4 ext) the lever is slightly too far depressed to slide into SM.
I release pressure the f4 light pops back on & the neutral light .

This is leading me to belive xyz switch I've ordered is NOT the problem ?
And I'm back to syncronisation of the gear cable as sujested or with this added information does anyone have any more sujestions ?
I know there's a sensor next to the gear lever..is there a way to test it ect
Thanks again guys
Appreciate it
 
I though nudging to lever didn't sewitch oft the second led before. You can alter the position of the selector yerself. Just undo the nut underneath (same one as before) and move the rod forward or backward a bit then tighten the nut. Then test again. You only need the electrics on, engine off, to check the gear lever position. Trial and error. Then repeat until correct.
 
Hippo said:
I though nudging to lever didn't sewitch oft the second led before. You can alter the position of the selector yerself. Just undo the nut underneath (same one as before) and move the rod forward or backward a bit then tighten the nut. Then test again. You only need the electrics on, engine off, to check the gear lever position. Trial and error. Then repeat until correct.
Click to expand...
No I got the light to turn off but only on depression .
Feel like a rart spanner nah
£300 quid in .. could be a lot worse though I suppose !
Thankyou again though matey , I'll have a play with this and see where I get too .
Finally have hope I'm getting close now
False hope but hope none the less
 
Apologies for the late reply, been a busy weeks. Thankyou all for your input though!
Thankfully the issue has been resolved.
I fitted the new and guaranteed working inhibitor switch (without the adjustment tool may I add) and low and behold my issues were gone.
No idea how this affected the resistance readings in my coils ect but there you have it .
Moving my attention back to my other freelander which has the dreaded 3 amigos.
Thanks all and cya around
 
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