I expect it just the 2/4 Brake Duty solenoid that needs changing. I've done 2 recently, and both were the solenoid actually failed. It's a couple of hours work to change the solenoid valve in question. Make sure the front of the vehicle is raised high, to minimise box fluid loss.
Flashing f4 and yellow decent light on
- Thread starter Shaun4456
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Will I need new seal once plates of ???
The sump pan is sealed with a cork gasket, which should be replaced on refitting the sump pan.
Hi sorry I was meaning seal around solonoids at front of gear box ???
Can't find any on line or numbers. Or is it just sealler
The solenoid valves are sealed with O rings, that are fitted to them when supplied.
The only seal needed is for the sump pan/valve block housing.
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Yes. I've said there's a cork seal around the sump pan.
td4van
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Looking at RAVE then it says to use a liquid sealant for that plate.
They definitely have a cork seal from the factory and it's available as a spare. The bolts are also shouldered, so wouldn't clamp the plate down flush, without the thickness of the cork gasket in the space.
Hippo
Lord Hippo
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Main dealer used sealer when refitting my solenoid cover to stop a leak. Bastids took the wrong cover oft. The recon auto I got them to supply/fit also used sealer. My original and spare auto used sealer anorl. I wonder if there was a period of manufacture where they changed from one to the other.
I did the mother in law's V6 (EX mine) 2/4 Brake Duty solenoid in October and it definitely had a cork gasket, as it should from the factory. I fitted a new cork gasket to it on reassembly. It should have one, and it's even supplied in the solenoid kit I imported from the US.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Transmis...8-N89-N92-Gasket-Jatco-VW-21339-/192198178298
If a transmission cover is sealed with sealer, then it's been done before, and incorrectly . A new transmission is built using a gasket on that cover, so why use sealer.
Using sealer is a bodge imo and could cause blockage of a fluid way, should it come adrift from the gasket face.
It seems silly to save just a few £ on the correct gasket, I can't see why sealer would be used.
Hippo
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what was wrong with it?
Hippo
Lord Hippo
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I've never come across peeps asking about cork gaskets so this is a bit of a surprise. Yer would think someone oft ere who we've helped would have mentioned it or queried when taking it oft the cover and finding one as we normally tell them to go for sealer.
I can see a gasket on the exploded diagram for the Mazda version of the Jatco but not the Freelander version. The Freelander one only shows silicon sealer. Mircocat only lists the sealer part no TZB500120 which main dealers sell for about £80 per tube. Do you have a Freelander catalogue with a gasket listed and the part number? It seems strange we've never come across this before.
I can't comment on what LR do but my original auto was either rubber gasket or sealer and quite neat. Years later we found out it's serial number confirmed it was the original fitted as I now have it's production records. The recon was the same using sealer and quite neat. When the dealer replaced the cover it sealed ok but looked messier then the others. But they put it on by hand as opposed to machine.
The last 2 Jatco boxes I've removed the pan from, both had gaskets fitted. So obviously I put new gaskets on when the pans were refitted. I'm not a fan of sealer, anywhere near small oil ways that can become blocked. So now I know that some had gaskets and some didn't, I'll still refit with a new gasket. Besides the gasket is like £12, which is much less than the sealer you just mentioned.
Hippo
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I wonder if LR requested sealant instead of gaskets. It looks like the Mazda version calls up a gasket but the FL version doesn't. I'm thinking along the lines of cork being a problem for deep water over a period of time if it kept being dunked int water. The edge of the gasket would be open to the elements even though it's compressed which would offer some strength. They could have gone for a rubber like gasket I assume. The solenoid cover looks the same across all the different versions of the same auto so peeps could have sourced the Mazda cork one to fit it.
Hi this strange on
Done resistance test
Pins oms
1,2 = 524oms
3,4 = missing pins on 3and 4
5,6 = 530oms
7,8 = no reading at all
9,18 = 15.8oms
10,8 = no reading at all
11,18 = 15.7oms
12,18 = 15.7oms
13,18 = 0.18oms ment to be 15.9
14,18 = 16.6oms
15,18 = 3.5oms
16,18 = 3.6oms
17,18 = 13oms
L shape pins c0244
5,20 no reading
21,20 no reading
24,20 no reading
39,20 no reading
3,17 = 3.90ms
4,17 = 01.0 mrmt to be 16.5
10,17 = 16.5oms
14,17 = 16.6oms
15,17 = 16.4oms
16,17 = 13.3oms
17,18 = 4.1oms
52,17 = 16.4oms
53,17 = 16.0oms
There a few things thst worry me on this one
Done resistance test
Pins oms
1,2 = 524oms
3,4 = missing pins on 3and 4
5,6 = 530oms
7,8 = no reading at all
9,18 = 15.8oms
10,8 = no reading at all
11,18 = 15.7oms
12,18 = 15.7oms
13,18 = 0.18oms ment to be 15.9
14,18 = 16.6oms
15,18 = 3.5oms
16,18 = 3.6oms
17,18 = 13oms
L shape pins c0244
5,20 no reading
21,20 no reading
24,20 no reading
39,20 no reading
3,17 = 3.90ms
4,17 = 01.0 mrmt to be 16.5
10,17 = 16.5oms
14,17 = 16.6oms
15,17 = 16.4oms
16,17 = 13.3oms
17,18 = 4.1oms
52,17 = 16.4oms
53,17 = 16.0oms
There a few things thst worry me on this one
Hippo
Lord Hippo
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I have copied yer results into the list below (taken from the text under the video ont you tube) as it's easier for us to see which sensors/solenoids are reading good/bad when listed against the names and tolerances.
Black = hippo wrote
Blue = hippo concerns and request to measure
Red = Shuan4456 measured results
May I ask the make and model of meter yer bought? Also is there a battery warning symbol on the display. If so then resistance measurements can be a bit out if the battery is going flat.
It looks like you still have a fault on the same solenoid you replaced. I assume you had the 2-4 brake duty solenoid valve replaced as per the diagnostic screen from yer earlier post?
I'm wondering if the correct solenoid was replaced. There's two with similar names:
2 - 4 brake and 2-4 timing.
I can't remember if they're physically the same. The resistance of the coil will measure a different value. Yer never know if the diagnostic machine has the right text against the fault code picked up unless tested. The results show a short (low resistance near zero) across the measured wires which shouldn't be there.
Can you measure the solenoid you took out? Measure between the tab the electrical wire connects too, and the metal case of the solenoid. What is the resistance?
Method 1: Sensor resistance limits (connector C0243)
Pin 1 - 2 = 524 = Turbine speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
Pin 3 - 4 = missing pins = Intermediate speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
The intermediate sensor was missing from later model Freelander's as it wasn't needed and thought to be a popular fail on a certain batch of gearboxes.
Pin 5 - 6 = 530 = Vehicle speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
Pin 7 - 8 = no reading = Fluid temperature sensor See Table Below
Strange. Yer should be reading from the list below depending ont temperature of the auto and fluid inside:
-40 degrees C = 54900 ohms
-20 degrees C = 16700 ohms
00 degrees C = 6020 ohms
20 degrees C = 2500 ohms
40 degrees C = 1160 ohms
60 degrees C = 590 ohms
80 degrees C = 330 ohms
100 degrees C = 190 ohms
140 degrees C = 80 ohms
Method 1: Solenoid resistance limits (connector C0243)
Pin 18 is the common for all solenoid measurements.
Pin 9 - 18 = 15.8 = Shift solenoid valve A (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 10 - 18 = no reading = Shift solenoid valve B (14 to 18 ohms)
No reading on the above but the same item reads ok from the computer connector below which proves the wiring is ok through the barrel connector. Hopefully this isn't a problem. If it were you wouldn't be able to change from 3rd to 4th gear.
Pin 11 - 18 = 15.7 = Shift solenoid valve C (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 12 - 18 = 15.7 = Low clutch timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 13 - 18 = 0.18 = 2-4 brake timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
This is a concern. Can you measure the following:
Pin 13 to gearbox case
Pin 18 to gearbox case (just curious but this should be ok as it's a common and the others are ok)
Pin 13 to pin 17 (a loop though two solenoids)
Pin 14 - 18 = 16.6 = Reduction timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 15 - 18 = 3.5 = Line pressure duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms)
Sometimes this is slightly out due to quality of connection and meter reading I think. Also the loop resistance of the wiring harness.
Pin 16 - 18 = 3.6 = 2-4 brake duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms)
Sometimes this is slightly out due to quality of connection and meter reading I think. Also the loop resistance of the wiring harness.
Pin 17 - 18 = 13 = Lock-up solenoid valve (12 to 13.2 ohms)
Method 2: Sensor resistance limits (connector C0932)
Pin 5 - 20 = no reading = Vehicle speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
This was ok in the above test
Pin 21 - 20 = no reading = Intermediate speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
We think this is missing and will be ok
Pin 24 - 20 = no reading = Turbine speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
Worked ok in the above test
Pin 39 - 20 = no reading = Fluid temperature sensor See Table Below
As said above yer should read something
Method 2: Solenoid resistance limits (connector C0932)
Pin 17 is the common for all solenoid measurements.
Pin 3 - 17 = 3.9 = 2-4 brake duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms)
As said above this is slightly out due to quality of connection and meter reading I think. Also the loop resistance of the wiring harness.
Pin 4 - 17 = 1 = 2-4 brake timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
This is a concern. Can you measure:
Pin 4 to gearbox case
Pin 17 to gearbox case
Pin 4 to pin 16 (a loop though two solenoids)
Pin 10 - 17 = 16.5 = Reduction timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 14 - 17 = 16.6 = Shift solenoid valve B (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 15 - 17 = 16.4 = Shift solenoid valve A (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 16 - 17 = 13.3 = Lock-up solenoid valve (12 to 13.2 ohms)
Pin 17 - 18 = 4.1 = Line pressure duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms)
As said above this is slightly out due to quality of connection and meter reading I think. Also the loop resistance of the wiring harness.
Pin 52 - 17 = 16.4 = Shift solenoid valve C (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 53 - 17 = 16 = Low clutch timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
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