wickford90
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 3,623
- Location
- wickford essex
Take your right hand out of your pants and you will be surprised how fast you can do things.
doesn't take long? everyone always says that... but i can't believe removing part of my chassis is a quick job... changing the rear prop shaft doughnut took me 3 hours, for example and it's only 10 bolts! lol
regarding the auto gearbox filter, the ATF in there is still cherry red and smells normal, but it does struggle to lock-up the torque converter when I go over 50mph early on in my journeys. It always locks up over 50mph when everything's warmed up, and it locks up better when cold if I rev the engine quite a lot, but not enough to make it kick down, of course.
Could changing the filter help with this? If so, I should do it. If not, there's probably no point.
matthew2riches - where are you based (roughly)??
Mr. Noisy: how can I fill the swivel housing with the correct amount though? they already have some grease in them, but i've no idea how much, and grease doesn't tend to settle down to a level as such - it tends to cling to everything, thereby making level detection impossible.
no ,changing oil will make more difference if valves are sluggish,slow to take up drive when cold would be an indicator of blocked filter
Ipswich.
fish, has any grease leaked out since you last filled the housings? or have you done any work on them since which has involved losing some grease?
Oil quantities and type:
Auto gearbox - even though the total quantity in the box is 9 ltrs, you will only get out approx 4.5ltrs at any one time - please DO NOT ask why, just accept this OK?
So you need a 5 ltr can of ATF Dexron IID or III
Forget completely about doing the autobox filter: you don't have the mechanical aptitude and you'll damage something.
Transfer box - Quantity 2.3ltrs; type EP 80w-90 to GL5 standard. This is the normal std nowadays.
Each Diff - Quantity 1.7ltrs; Type EP80w-90 to GL5 standard.
So you can see that as James said you will 6 ltrs of EP oil.
Leave for at least ten minutes, each component to drain out the old oil .
Now please, please, stop asking questions, go buy your oil doing the fûcking job.
thanks for that! Once I add a one-shot sachet & diff drain plug washers, it comes to £15.90 inc. VAT, before shipping.
I already actually placed an order with lrdirect, and it came to £20.05 inc. VAT, before shipping.
Oh well... maybe it is cheaper to buy a filter kit and throw away the air filter rather than buy the other parts individually!
Anyway... that's done now. All I have to order is the oils... 5 litres of ATF Dextron IID & 6 litres of EP80w-90 to GL5 standard.
You have linked to ATF UN though instead of ATF Dextron IID. Is that the same stuff?
And I was told to put EP80w-90 to GL5 standard into the diffs and transfer box, but you have linked to "TRX 75W90". Not quite the same stuff, but good enough for high mileage and long-term use?
Re the autobox oil ATF is auto transmission fluid and UN is the Millers trade name for that oil, which is to the std Dexron IID - so it is the correct std oil for your vehicle. If you had read the specs you would have seen that.
Now, re the EP oil for the diffs and tranny box: LR in there infinite wisdom specify EP80-90 back in the 1990's but do you know what those numbers mean?
The first number is the viscosity at 0°C and the second number is the viscosity at 100°C. So the difference between 75 and 80 for your purposes here is irrelevant but using the 75 will actually give the components greater protection at low temps because it permeates better. It is also to GL std.
To summarise, the oils I quoted are OK for your purposes in your vehicle - nuff said?
Welcome To LandyZone, the Land Rover Forums!
Here at LandyZone we have plenty of very knowledgable members so if you have any questions about your Land Rover or just want to connect with other Landy owners, you're in the right place.
Registering is free and easy just click here, we hope to see you on the forums soon!