Fip rebuild

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Ok had it on diagnostics turned it up to 128= 750 rpm starting is absolutely fine hot or cold no loss of power after 10 minutes if driving leave to idle tickover is smooth every now and split second stalling mostly recovers but dies stalls sometimes

With fans on or in in gear makes no diffrance so the choices are a new top but this has to be bench tested to be tuned in or a new pump being the pump is so old I'm reluctant to go for a new top

I'm living with it until stalling will become more frequent I have no engine check light so I presume king injector and cps are working fine although it did come on once when stationary after it stalled I guess that was normal as it did not reciver and the ECM logged a fault due to cls signals dieing ect ect

So appart from live with it I can't think if any means to prolong the the senario of the looming stalling pump I am going to unplug the fuel heater in the hope the thicker fuel might help in some way other than that

New fip pump looming !
 
Last edited:
Grit Valve said:
Ok had it on diagnostics turned it up to 128= 750 rpm starting is absolutely fine hot or cold no loss of power after 10 minutes if driving leave to idle tickover is smooth every now and split second stalling mostly recovers but dies stalls sometimes

With fans on or in in gear makes no diffrance so the choices are a new top but this has to be bench tested to be tuned in or a new pump being the pump is so old I'm reluctant to go for a new top

I'm living with it until stalling will become more frequent I have no engine check light so I presume king injector and cps are working fine although it did come on once when stationary after it stalled I guess that was normal as it did not reciver and the ECM logged a fault due to cls signals dieing ect ect

So appart from live with it I can't think if any means to prolong the the senario of the looming stalling pump I am going to unplug the fuel heater in the hope the thicker fuel might help in some way other than that

New fip pump looming !
Click to expand...

Only thing that will make it stall is if engine is loaded, then when ECU picks up lower RPM from CPS, fuel quantity servo fails to react and increase fuel to compensate. There maybe wear in the fuel quantity collar or it's connection to the servo. If when you did your pump up, you just had the top changed, then this maybe the case.
 
wammers said:
Only thing that will make it stall is if engine is loaded, then when ECU picks up lower RPM from CPS, fuel quantity servo fails to react and increase fuel to compensate. There maybe wear in the fuel quantity collar or it's connection to the servo. If when you did your pump up, you just had the top changed, then this maybe the case.
Click to expand...

The pump had new seals done unit cleaned second hand top bench tested ,as the one that was in it suffered hesitation frequently another top was used from a pump that leaked but ran fine so recon pump with the secondhand working top fitted
20 k Later its worn out but I'm reluctant to replace the top being I could just get a brand new one from bosch sold as new with warranty

You So say no load won't stall but it will with fans off lights well everything possible every now and then it will so the symptoms are the same with everything off at rest or everything on in gear but I must say the chances or odds are more with everything on than off but can do it either way:)
 
Grit Valve said:
The pump had new seals done unit cleaned second hand top bench tested ,as the one that was in it suffered hesitation frequently another top was used from a pump that leaked but ran fine so recon pump with the secondhand working top fitted
20 k Later its worn out but I'm reluctant to replace the top being I could just get a brand new one from bosch sold as new with warranty

You So say no load won't stall but it will with fans off lights well everything possible every now and then it will so the symptoms are the same with everything off at rest or everything on in gear but I must say the chances or odds are more with everything on than off but can do it either way:)
Click to expand...

No i am not saying it won't stall if no load is being applied but applying a load will make it more likely. Mine used to stall pulling up at lights. But if by applying the brakes that caused the ABS pump to start the alternator would ramp up to compensate. So you can load the motor without realising it.
 
wammers said:
No i am not saying it won't stall if no load is being applied but applying a load will make it more likely. Mine used to stall pulling up at lights. But if by applying the brakes that caused the ABS pump to start the alternator would ramp up to compensate. So you can load the motor without realising it.
Click to expand...
I'm just going to grin and bear it W

I was hoping just by chance the cps was breaking down only time will tell but £50 odd quid would be much better than a new pump

Ps you got me thinking now time to activate the abs pump and see what strain that put out after repeated Atempts ;)
Might just be able to work around it lol adapt a new driving style :D
 
Well I put a bottle of redex diesel treatment after two days its settled mmm
Maybe it was a bit of crap too early too tell just yet

Wammers I spoke to diesel jones today as I notice both there pumps both end in 994 both BMW and the p38
The BMW one BMW Series 3 325 td Bosch Diesel Fuel Pump 0460406994
The p38 one
LAND ROVER Range Rover II 2.5 D Classic Bosch Diesel Fuel Pump 0460406994

They assure me both the electric tops are the same Parts :confused::confused::confused:
I always thought they were different?

Wtf is going on do they even know or is this a myth???
 
Grit Valve said:
Well I put a bottle of redex diesel treatment after two days its settled mmm
Maybe it was a bit of crap too early too tell just yet

Wammers I spoke to diesel jones today as I notice both there pumps both end in 994 both BMW and the p38
The BMW one BMW Series 3 325 td Bosch Diesel Fuel Pump 0460406994
The p38 one
LAND ROVER Range Rover II 2.5 D Classic Bosch Diesel Fuel Pump 0460406994

They assure me both the electric tops are the same Parts :confused::confused::confused:
I always thought they were different?

Wtf is going on do they even know or is this a myth???
Click to expand...

Yes as long as the pump is that part number it will fit. No matter what car it's off. But there are a couple of variations fitted to BMW 3 series 2.5 TDs. So not every pump from every 2.5 TD BMW will work on your P38. It MUST have that part number stamped on it. For instance a 0460-406-993 also fitted to the BMW 3 series 2.5 TD is no good. And must have the top changed.
 
wammers said:
Yes as long as the pump is that part number it will fit. No matter what car it's off. But there are a couple of variations fitted to BMW 3 series 2.5 TDs. So not every pump from every 2.5 TD BMW will work on your P38. It MUST have that part number stamped on it. For instance a 0460-406-993 also fitted to the BMW 3 series 2.5 TD is no good. And must have the top changed.
Click to expand...
:) spot on
 
Just an up date been busy ok its seems to do it when it wants now
Not every day done it a couple of times cold
Last night I took the cps off

Nightmare the Allen key was real tight almost bending the bracket I took if off .
And put a spanner in the welded nut behind the bracket ..,phew

I cleaned the magnet no bits just a bit of dirt/ grease.
So far it hasn't done it I starting to think its the cps as its only ever a slight pause for a split second I would of thought worn pump would be rhythmical unstable idle not a split second pause
I just wish it would fail or stall all the time so it would prompt me into retiming the pump, for peace of mind

So at the mo nowhere fast.
But she runs well :D
 
Grit Valve said:
Just an up date been busy ok its seems to do it when it wants now
Not every day done it a couple of times cold
Last night I took the cps off

Nightmare the Allen key was real tight almost bending the bracket I took if off .
And put a spanner in the welded nut behind the bracket ..,phew

I cleaned the magnet no bits just a bit of dirt/ grease.
So far it hasn't done it I starting to think its the cps as its only ever a slight pause for a split second I would of thought worn pump would be rhythmical unstable idle not a split second pause
I just wish it would fail or stall all the time so it would prompt me into retiming the pump, for peace of mind

So at the mo nowhere fast.
But she runs well :D
Click to expand...

I don't think the pump static timing being slightly out will cause it to stall. What's the modulation hot at idle?
 
Grit Valve said:
36 what does each number represent 0.01?? Or is it angle
Click to expand...

Timing modulation is the amount of modulation being applied to the timing solenoid to correct timing. Your car is slightly advanced that should not be a great problem, modulation should be 45% to 55% ideally 50% so there is the option to go both ways. That will not be causing it to stall. Either the CPS is missing a beat now and again or the quantity servo is not reacting quick enough to varying engine loads. Thought you had Nanocom are there no quantity faults showing?
 
wammers said:
Timing modulation is the amount of modulation being applied to the timing solenoid to correct timing. Your car is slightly advanced that should not be a great problem, modulation should be 45% to 55% ideally 50% so there is the option to go both ways. That will not be causing it to stall. Either the CPS is missing a beat now and again or the quantity servo is not reacting quick enough to varying engine loads. Thought you had Nanocom are there no quantity faults showing?
Click to expand...

Not needed one yet :eek: maybe its about time

We did plug over lander 's in but no stored faults if I remember
Funny I do remember his being 86 and his is running sweet .
 
Grit Valve said:
Not that I saw or he didn't mention it, only the
Booster box
Click to expand...

His tuning box is a very old out of date one. Newer models don't use the pressure pipe to the MAP sensor. Off a very early nineties BMW i would think. Pre P38. Don't know what year is car is but PSI do two different ones for the P38 1995 to 1999 is PB00011. 2000 to 2001 is PB00008. So if his car is after 2000 he definitely has the wrong unit fitted, it will not be compatible with the later ECU. It maybe giving him some of the problems he is having. But he won't be told.
 
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