Fip rebuild

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Grit Valve said:
And this was causing poor idle or just poor running as I have poor idle and cutting out in idle but good running say above over 1000 rpm and normal driving conditions its only when it comes to a rest problems start
I've yet to test my intank pump I shall wammers test and and also add power To intank pump to test that flow is constant .


Wammers I absolutely sure its the Quantity Servo if I turn it up via diagnostics will it over come this shortfall for a while untill things get worse ??
And I guess increasing the throttle pedel is not the same as increasing the ECM fuel settings ??
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You really need to put it on diagnostics before you decide anything. Quantity servo is a cause of stalling (does the engine lamp flick on as you come off the throttle or out of cruise?) but it could also be weak signals from CPS at idle. Lifting the idle a couple of points maybe help in the short term. But no more than 800. The trick used to make the turbo spool up quicker of increasing idle RPM to 900 should be avoided. Not good for the converter and box if you have an habit of leaving car in D at lights Etc.
 
wammers said:
You really need to put it on diagnostics before you decide anything. Quantity servo is a cause of stalling (does the engine lamp flick on as you come off the throttle or out of cruise?) but it could also be weak signals from CPS at idle. Lifting the idle a couple of points maybe help in the short term. But no more than 800. The trick used to make the turbo spool up quicker of increasing idle RPM to 900 should be avoided. Not good for the converter and box if you have an habit of leaving car in D at lights Etc.
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No lamp flicker at all its now been a few times of me driving understanding when and what's going on its mainly when its warmed up normal driving is fine in tank is fine jumped relay loads comming out and constant .

When cold idel is good then as it warms bthe odd drop at standstill once warm after a decent drive its struggles to idel even tho its at 750 even if I hold peddle at 1k its still struggles some times it comes to rest sometimes not even when not slowing!down and leaving it to idle it stalls pulling away is so far good no hesitation as yet

Hold fire hold I just noticed my engine check light isn't lighting in position two I need to check the bulb
 
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Done bulb now have check light working
No flickering whatsoever even when stalled .
I've also checked 50amp fuse and the other fuse and both relays with engine managment light in the fuse box compartment.
Ps I know the enging managment light it working as I'd I pull off the cps connector when ideling the revs go up sky high and the engine manigment lights up.whats connected to it the cps and the number 4 injector I thought not the fip pump
 
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It's sorted had ovalandrover here put namcom on checked modulation ect the propblem was pump fuel setting was 126 instead of 128 reset and stirred problem gone!!!!! Thanks for all your help and thanks to dave!!
 
Grit Valve said:
Done bulb now have check light working
No flickering whatsoever even when stalled .
I've also checked 50amp fuse and the other fuse and both relays with engine managment light in the fuse box compartment.
Ps I know the enging managment light it working as I'd I pull off the cps connector when ideling the revs go up sky high and the engine manigment lights up.whats connected to it the cps and the number 4 injector I thought not the fip pump
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You will need to drive car, get up to around 40 MPH for half a mile or so then let foot off throttle, note if engine lamp flicks on as idle switch is engaged. Drive in cruise control a while at 40 then disengage cruise by touching brake note if engine lamp flicks on as idle switch is engaged. If it flicks on that is an indication that all is not well. CPS and number four injector signals go to ECU. CPS obviously for engine speed and number four injector for control of timing solenoid. On diag CPS speed and number four injector speed signals should be identical within about 40 RPM. You really do need to put it on diag. You can guess for ever.
 
Its sorted now the cps and needle were out tho 668 for Cps and the needle was higher but havent rechecked since I reset the fuelung that was to low 128!is standerd mine was 126 changed it now its running perfect at idel at 750
 
Grit Valve said:
Its sorted now the cps and needle were out tho 668 for Cps and the needle was higher but havent rechecked since I reset the fuelung that was to low 128!is standerd mine was 126 changed it now its running perfect at idel at 750
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No bloody wonder it was stalling. :D:D
 
On bothe cars the cps is about 750 on idle but needle lift is 3600 odd on Daves and mine is 3700 odd and doesn't change much untill Revved unlike the cps that changes instantly with rpm ?
 
Grit Valve said:
On bothe cars the cps is about 750 on idle but needle lift is 3600 odd on Daves and mine is 3700 odd and doesn't change much untill Revved unlike the cps that changes instantly with rpm ?
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Daves Nanocom needs updating, needle lift reading being way out was a glitch on early ones. Think he needs update BBS 1-12.
 
So the end result cps fine modulation at idel was 36 haven't a clue what that means my idle was slightly low and increasing was a instant improve for a while but its sitill keeps dropping at idle but doesn't stall so bad now so I still say its the top part of pump is buggerd .
 
Grit Valve said:
So the end result cps fine modulation at idel was 36 haven't a clue what that means my idle was slightly low and increasing was a instant improve for a while but its sitill keeps dropping at idle but doesn't stall so bad now so I still say its the top part of pump is buggerd .
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Timing modulation at idle with a warm engine should be 45% to 55% ideally 50%. Your pump static timing is too far advanced.
 
Grit Valve said:
Ok I have to get it checked is this with the guage set at0.09
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There is a procedure for checking pump static timing. A few bits of kit needed. Locking pin, DTI and adaptor for mounting it on pump. I would not think that will be the reason the engine is stalling. There is an idle switch on throttle potentiometer. When this is engaged with throttle at zero, engine RPMs are read by CPS and for any change, engine loaded/unloaded by alternator, power steering pump Etc. Fuel is increased or decreased via quantity servo to compensate as needed. Obviously this is not happening. If there was no fault like fuel quantity showing then the throttle potentiometer closed voltage is an option to look at on diags. Mine had a fuel quantity fault for a long time but it was intermittent and gave few problems. Then it started to stall now and again. Engine lamp started flicking on when throttle was released. Ended up with a new pump. All is good now.
 
wammers said:
There is a procedure for checking pump static timing. A few bits of kit needed. Locking pin, DTI and adaptor for mounting it on pump. I would not think that will be the reason the engine is stalling. There is an idle switch on throttle potentiometer. When this is engaged with throttle at zero, engine RPMs are read by CPS and for any change, engine loaded/unloaded by alternator, power steering pump Etc. Fuel is increased or decreased via quantity servo to compensate as needed. Obviously this is not happening. If there was no fault like fuel quantity showing then the throttle potentiometer closed voltage is an option to look at on diags. Mine had a fuel quantity fault for a long time but it was intermittent and gave few problems. Then it started to stall now and again. Engine lamp started flicking on when throttle was released. Ended up with a new pump. All is good now.
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I did check the the throttle it has the 5v and the other one showed it increasing as you pressed I think I'm going to buy the metric gauge and the adaptor reset it and try again but I can't belive that after a refurb and less than 20 k its all out but that's life I suppose I have to delv deeper .
 
Ok locking pin ect comming I've noted in rave that cars with less than 20 k have a setting of 0.95
And after this milage it should be 0.90 do you think the fact that I have just had new chains and sprockets its come to time that And thats my problem as i need to redial my pump in I'm hoping so .
I will get the static set up and take from there
 
Grit Valve said:
Ok locking pin ect comming I've noted in rave that cars with less than 20 k have a setting of 0.95
And after this milage it should be 0.90 do you think the fact that I have just had new chains and sprockets its come to time that And thats my problem as i need to redial my pump in I'm hoping so .
I will get the static set up and take from there
Click to expand...

No, any chain stretch would send the pump retarded not advanced. 0.95 mm is more advanced than 0.90 mm. 0.95 is to allow for chains to stretch and drop timing back to where it should be. As i said before i doubt if pump timing set as it is will be causing your problem.
 
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