Engine swap in 2 days
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StuntmanAd
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Flat tyre made it more effort to do it that way and 3 of us put the engine crane in, which had worked its way behind the diesel engine. So engine had to come out before the crane could come out
sounds like hard work, but cheaper than going to the gym
StuntmanAd
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Not for a 21 year old mechanic on his days off, easy peasy 
dr pepper
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Double ceck the return pipe to the tank, if theres a bit of fuel in you should hear bubbles if you blow into the end of the pipe.
I had all kinds of troubles getting my 300 tdi to run properly, it started badly then hunted up and down like an old perkins, only ran ok when air couldnt get back up the return.
I agree with the lack of a timer, my landy hasnt got one either, or a relay, I have an industrial pushbutton, I've even seen it done with good results with a starter solenoid.
Did you look at the injector pump to see if it has a warm up adavance?
I had all kinds of troubles getting my 300 tdi to run properly, it started badly then hunted up and down like an old perkins, only ran ok when air couldnt get back up the return.
I agree with the lack of a timer, my landy hasnt got one either, or a relay, I have an industrial pushbutton, I've even seen it done with good results with a starter solenoid.
Did you look at the injector pump to see if it has a warm up adavance?
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The injection pump only has the stop solenoid wire going to it. But there is a cable coming off the pump and going in the back of the head, above where the cable goes in to the head there is a solenoid/sender of sorts with 2 wires going in to it. Is this the cold start solenoid you speak of? Does it need to be used and how should it be wired up?
Engine is in but not yet running, didn't get it done in 2 days
Engine is in but not yet running, didn't get it done in 2 days
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dr pepper
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yup, sounds like it.
Ok then, the second solenoid is a timing advance (its inside the pump, or on the back/top), its purpose is to advance the injection point only whilst the engine is cold, there is a thermostatic switch that controls it, once the motor has warmed up the thermostat switches off (the opposite to a radiator fan switch) and de-energises the coil, the thermostat is usually in the cooling water stream.
You dont have to wire it up, what'll happen without it is the engine will idle erractically and will have reduced power for the first few minutes, so if your in a rush you could leave it for later.
The device you found with 2 wires out the back sounds like the thermostat, but not definately.
I would chase the wire that dissapears into the head and determine exactly what its wired to.
Also the stop solenoid wire, does it only go to the solenoid, or does it look like it could go somewhere else as well, some advance solenoids share the same + as the stop solenoid, and the - goes through the thermostat to earth (sounds a bit like what you might have).
The general idea is that the ignition supply goes through the thermostat then to the solenoid, or the ignition supply goes direct to the solenoid and the earth goes via the thermostat.
Take the device with 2 wires out the back off, meter it with you tester then dunk it in hot water, if it reads a short when cold and open when hot then it is the thermostat for the cold advance solenoid.
Also a look at the schematic for the donor car would give you some other ideas.
You could just connect a switch on the dash to the advance solenoid and control it manually, I like this idea.
Ok then, the second solenoid is a timing advance (its inside the pump, or on the back/top), its purpose is to advance the injection point only whilst the engine is cold, there is a thermostatic switch that controls it, once the motor has warmed up the thermostat switches off (the opposite to a radiator fan switch) and de-energises the coil, the thermostat is usually in the cooling water stream.
You dont have to wire it up, what'll happen without it is the engine will idle erractically and will have reduced power for the first few minutes, so if your in a rush you could leave it for later.
The device you found with 2 wires out the back sounds like the thermostat, but not definately.
I would chase the wire that dissapears into the head and determine exactly what its wired to.
Also the stop solenoid wire, does it only go to the solenoid, or does it look like it could go somewhere else as well, some advance solenoids share the same + as the stop solenoid, and the - goes through the thermostat to earth (sounds a bit like what you might have).
The general idea is that the ignition supply goes through the thermostat then to the solenoid, or the ignition supply goes direct to the solenoid and the earth goes via the thermostat.
Take the device with 2 wires out the back off, meter it with you tester then dunk it in hot water, if it reads a short when cold and open when hot then it is the thermostat for the cold advance solenoid.
Also a look at the schematic for the donor car would give you some other ideas.
You could just connect a switch on the dash to the advance solenoid and control it manually, I like this idea.
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fenby1976
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Engine is in but not yet running, didn't get it done in 2 days
There will be more satisfaction in doing a nice neat and tidy job of the installation than a 2 day lash up. A bit of over-optimism isn't such a bad thing. I'd probably never have started some of my projects if I'd been realistic about how long they would really take.
dr pepper
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Hows it going?
Fenners is quite right of course, few of my jobs get all the corners polished though.
Fenners is quite right of course, few of my jobs get all the corners polished though.
StuntmanAd
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Well I've been held back by a dodgy starter motor... Had it off twice, tried to clean it up but it didn't have any effect. Its away having a new solenoid and new brushes fitted and will be back tomorrow.
The fuel lines are all plumbed in, the wiring is all done, the rad is plumbed in which was a bit of a pain as the bottom hose outlet on the engine was on the wrong side for the rad. Plumbing pipe to the rescue The throttle cable isn't very pretty but it works and almost gets full throttle so we'll see how that fairs before doing anything too drastic.
Exhaust has to be piped up tomorrow but I'm not 100% sure how to go about it. I'm sure I'll come up with something
The fuel lines are all plumbed in, the wiring is all done, the rad is plumbed in which was a bit of a pain as the bottom hose outlet on the engine was on the wrong side for the rad. Plumbing pipe to the rescue
The throttle cable isn't very pretty but it works and almost gets full throttle so we'll see how that fairs before doing anything too drastic.Exhaust has to be piped up tomorrow but I'm not 100% sure how to go about it. I'm sure I'll come up with something
Plumbing pipe to the rescue
:nopics:
StuntmanAd
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will get some for you tomorrow Sean
fenby1976
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Looking at the photo of the Steve Parker exhaust system it looks like the down pipe goes under the rear end of the sump and then takes the conventional routing. The cheapest way to do it would be to find some old exhaust systems with the correct bends, chop them out and then join them up with some straight sections to link in with the rear half of the standard Land-Rover downpipe. An alternative would be to have a side exit pipe with the silencer beneath the passenger floor and the tail pipe just in front of the nearside rear wheel.
dr pepper
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I've not had it off twice for a long time, anyways:
I like that idea of fenners, take a hacksaw to the breakers and saw a load of bits off the right diameter, being a non turbo you'll need at least one silencer.
come on then photo's.
I like that idea of fenners, take a hacksaw to the breakers and saw a load of bits off the right diameter, being a non turbo you'll need at least one silencer.
come on then photo's.
StuntmanAd
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Its in and it runs Stop solenoid must be kaput though as itll run without the keys but the solenoid is deffinitly getting power fed and cut at the right time...
Even got to keep the standard air filter
ghetto throttle cable
Stop solenoid must be kaput though as itll run without the keys but the solenoid is deffinitly getting power fed and cut at the right time...Even got to keep the standard air filter
ghetto throttle cable
dr pepper
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Well done.
Is that relay on the air filter for the glow plugs?, if so its a little on the small side, but it'll get you going for now though.
How does it drive, is it better than the original petty?
I wish mine was done, the problem with getting old is that you dont seem to have the go anymore, make the most while you can.
Is that relay on the air filter for the glow plugs?, if so its a little on the small side, but it'll get you going for now though.
How does it drive, is it better than the original petty?
I wish mine was done, the problem with getting old is that you dont seem to have the go anymore, make the most while you can.
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I havn't driven it yet, floors aren't back in, no silencer on the exhaust (damn site quieter than a petrol engine without a silencer!) and havn't wired up my electric fan. Oh and a flat battery.
Dr P you say you've got one of these engine in a P100 yes? I've been told that the thing at the back of the head with 2 wires going in to it is an electric fan switch, or when fitted to a Sierra, brings in the electro magnetic clutch for the belt driven fan. Do you know if theres any truth in this?
I'm waiting for my battery to finish charging so I can get it up to temperature and test it with my scrap yard metro radiator fan
Dr P you say you've got one of these engine in a P100 yes? I've been told that the thing at the back of the head with 2 wires going in to it is an electric fan switch, or when fitted to a Sierra, brings in the electro magnetic clutch for the belt driven fan. Do you know if theres any truth in this?
I'm waiting for my battery to finish charging so I can get it up to temperature and test it with my scrap yard metro radiator fan
dr pepper
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Had one a while back, and I cant remember, the way to tell what it is is to circuit test it when cold, if its on its for the injector pump, if its off then its for the fan.
I didnt think they had an electromagnetic clutch on the fan with the pinto engine, the fan had a viscous coupling and operated off engine heat, you'll not be used to inline engines being a youngster eh.
On the fan front rover diesels have a gudun, and if you want a hovercraft then citroen xantia's have 2 very powerfull fans on a mounting plate, a bar steward to get out tho.
I didnt think they had an electromagnetic clutch on the fan with the pinto engine, the fan had a viscous coupling and operated off engine heat, you'll not be used to inline engines being a youngster eh.
On the fan front rover diesels have a gudun, and if you want a hovercraft then citroen xantia's have 2 very powerfull fans on a mounting plate, a bar steward to get out tho.
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StuntmanAd
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Not used to inlines being a youngster eh
Want to see some of my old cars?
both of them, at different times...
was a 1500, then a 2ltr 8 valve, then a 2 ltr 16 valve, then another 2 ltr 16 valve. Thats taken at the Nurburgring
plus a few more Dolomites, a TR7 and a fair few more modern fwd cars
Diesel fans hardly ever seem to come on and as the landy rad is nice and big, does a super job at over cooling the standard engine! I'm sure my Rover 100 fan will be just fine
Want to see some of my old cars?
both of them, at different times...
was a 1500, then a 2ltr 8 valve, then a 2 ltr 16 valve, then another 2 ltr 16 valve. Thats taken at the Nurburgring
plus a few more Dolomites, a TR7 and a fair few more modern fwd cars
Diesel fans hardly ever seem to come on and as the landy rad is nice and big, does a super job at over cooling the standard engine! I'm sure my Rover 100 fan will be just fine
StuntmanAd
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got it running today and managed to take it for a drive. It's not getting full throttle and is a little bit slower than the petrol but that may improve when its getting full whack.
The engine doesnt have a fan switch on it so I've just wired a flick switch up to the dash for now.
There seems to be a problem with air leaks when gunning it. It was messing me about earlier starting up running for about 10 seconds then cutting out, I bled the system and it was fine, not sure if the problems gone away entirely. Will see over the next few days
The engine doesnt have a fan switch on it so I've just wired a flick switch up to the dash for now.
There seems to be a problem with air leaks when gunning it. It was messing me about earlier starting up running for about 10 seconds then cutting out, I bled the system and it was fine, not sure if the problems gone away entirely. Will see over the next few days
