P38A Electrickery drain,where am I going wrong?

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Bit of an update.left the car unlocked for over a week and it struggled to start. Thinking about it I guess the Becm never went into sleep mode. Soo, I pushed the sill button on the suspect door down before locking the car. Opened it up today after six days and started first time. Time to strip the door latch and check everything is moving freely me thinks ,unless someone has other ideas. It would normally flatten the battery in about four days.
 
I had performed the "Jog-unit installation" to ensure the RF receiver was not powered until I wanted to use the car and the days before flat battery increased from one and a half to a random time of anything from one and a half to four days. So, something was still drawing current at some times. Following the replacement of the drivers door-latch I am not hearing the random "thunk-thunk" of door lock cycling and things seem to be improved.
Early days for me yet, but I suspect the door-latch switches to have been causing me an issue. Will keep an eye on it and let you know. @tomcat59alan Have you had any success with your door-switch investigations?
 
I had performed the "Jog-unit installation" to ensure the RF receiver was not powered until I wanted to use the car and the days before flat battery increased from one and a half to a random time of anything from one and a half to four days. So, something was still drawing current at some times. Following the replacement of the drivers door-latch I am not hearing the random "thunk-thunk" of door lock cycling and things seem to be improved.
Early days for me yet, but I suspect the door-latch switches to have been causing me an issue. Will keep an eye on it and let you know. @tomcat59alan Have you had any success with your door-switch investigations?
Hi Dan, when I reconnected the battery the n/s rear door locked so I stripped the door card off and lubricated the sill button mechanism . Been locked for four days so far ,will try it tomorrow or Wednesday.
 
BTW @tomcat59alan , I have one of these attached to my Battery https://www.roadpro.co.uk/product/0...ies/ctek-comfort-indicator-with-eyelets-c8671
It is wired so as to be accessible without opening the car as it is tucked into the Radiator decorative panel fins.
So, I can fish it out and look at which LED is flashing to get an Idea of the state of charge/Volts of the battery.
Green is above 12.7 volts
Yellow is between 12.4 and 12.7 volts
Red is below 12.4 volts.
I am pleased with it for the money.
 
BTW @tomcat59alan , I have one of these attached to my Battery https://www.roadpro.co.uk/product/0...ies/ctek-comfort-indicator-with-eyelets-c8671
It is wired so as to be accessible without opening the car as it is tucked into the Radiator decorative panel fins.
So, I can fish it out and look at which LED is flashing to get an Idea of the state of charge/Volts of the battery.
Green is above 12.7 volts
Yellow is between 12.4 and 12.7 volts
Red is below 12.4 volts.
I am pleased with it for the money.
I've got enough flattening my battery ta.:D:D
 
BTW @tomcat59alan , I have one of these attached to my Battery https://www.roadpro.co.uk/product/0...ies/ctek-comfort-indicator-with-eyelets-c8671
It is wired so as to be accessible without opening the car as it is tucked into the Radiator decorative panel fins.
So, I can fish it out and look at which LED is flashing to get an Idea of the state of charge/Volts of the battery.
Green is above 12.7 volts
Yellow is between 12.4 and 12.7 volts
Red is below 12.4 volts.
I am pleased with it for the money.
I used to manufacture those as part of a switch panel for boats. Cost pennies.
 
I used to manufacture those as part of a switch panel for boats. Cost pennies.
You can indeed get them as a switch panel for cars too. I have it wired out the front so I can attach the CTek charger without taking the battery cover off (or even opening the bonnet).:)
 
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