L322 Battery Drain

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gold rover said:
I'm going to move quickly past the reducing of a luxury vehicle to a normal vehicle 🙈🤣 And on to , could the wipers be draining due to trying to talk to them with no response? As far as I remember reading elsewhere the relay may be built into the wiper assembly, or under the dash, depending on year. Although one of the more technical types may be able to answer that one. 👍
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Im so sorry to offend about reducing the vehicle😂. Im 22 its my first vehicle. I had free work done on it before I bought it. We bought it through someone who got it and fixed it up for free. It needed a bunch of repairs and they just ripped stuff out that weren’t working to save costs. I got it October of 2021 for 13k. Only 63k miles on it when I got it. I believe I read somewhere that there is a relay somewhere where you had to take the ac vent. I dont remember what side it was on though
 
Datatek said:
The wiper motor has a contact for home position, no motor = no contact. If the contact is open in the home position then no problem, if the contact is supposed to be closed in the home position, then there my be a problem/
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Any easy way to test for that?
 
If you think it's the wiper motors causing the drain just unplug them ?? Clearly something isn't swithcing off, therefore go through the fuses . . . . . .
 
pwood999 said:
If you think it's the wiper motors causing the drain just unplug them ?? Clearly something isn't swithcing off, therefore go through the fuses . . . . . .
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I've pulled the fuses out. Fuse 27,28,40,57, and 71 and I believe there is one more fuse in the rear for the air suspension that I pulled.
 
Papatoad said:
Im so sorry to offend about reducing the vehicle😂. Im 22 its my first vehicle. I had free work done on it before I bought it. We bought it through someone who got it and fixed it up for free. It needed a
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Papatoad said:
bunch of repairs and they just ripped stuff out that weren’t working to save costs. I got it October of 2021 for 13k. Only 63k miles on it when I got it. I believe I read somewhere that there is a relay somewhere where you had to take the ac vent. I dont remember what side it was on though
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You meant £1.3k not £13k didn't you?😱
If it's under the dash it's on nearside.
Not a bad vehicle as a first. I think our @Henry_b did something similar, and did wonderfully 😁👍
 
gold rover said:
You meant £1.3k not £13k didn't you?😱
If it's under the dash it's on nearside.
Not a bad vehicle as a first. I think our @Henry_b did something similar, and did wonderfully 😁👍
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13K USD... That is considered a good deal for here for any car, especially with that low mileage...I wanted to be like everyone here and get a Jeep, but they were double the price and had over 100k miles. I'd be lucky to buy a set of 4 decent tires for 1.3k USD 😬
 
Papatoad said:
13K USD... That is considered a good deal for here for any car, especially with that low mileage...I wanted to be like everyone here and get a Jeep, but they were double the price and had over 100k miles. I'd be lucky to buy a set of 4 decent tires for 1.3k USD 😬
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You really do have a penchant for the 'average' , a j***, eeeekkk 🤣 It becomes clearer now you say $ . I suppose your vehicle and tyre prices being higher is penance for your fuel being so cheap 😉 I just bought Goodyear tyres for all 4 corners for £320, inc postage. Another £40 to fit.
Also now I realise younare LHD I wonder if the relay is on the other side? Would RAVE show that?
 
Papatoad said:
He told me to charge it for 24-48 hours with 2 amps. 4 amps would be too high and 10 amps would cook the battery.
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The Autozone guy has never seen an alternator then!

There has to be something wrong with your battery here though. If you drove it for that time and it's charging correctly you'd have to have the biggest current draw to kill it in the time you were in the shop! At rate of discharge you describe here, the car won't even get to sleep before the battery is flat. Could the headlamp washers even pull that level of current?

It feels a bit like you're off down a rabbit hole here. Back to basics, check your charging rate and parasitic drain before you go any further.
 
Papatoad said:
I had it tested for over charging. Wasn’t that
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What was it charging at? A friend of mine had an alternator that had a failing rectifier in it, it would show as charging at around 14.4v and then spike to almost 20v every so often. It's probably worth checking that you're getting a consistent voltage when idling and get someone to rev the car as well to make sure it's stable and monitor it for a few minutes. It's a free test after all.
 
pwood999 said:
And do a CCA test on the battery.
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Quick question which might seem dumb. I bought 56 56-dollar battery thing that would show me the health, charge, and internal R, and would do a CCA test and charging test. I did just a battery test and I got results, but the battery was too weak, but it still worked anyway but told me to restart after charge. How accurate would this test be? The results look pretty bad, but the problem is I can barely start it without jumping it. If I do a CCA test can I jump the car beforehand as I'm doing it? Would the little battery pack being connected cause any problems in the results? I have a picture of what it told me on the battery test before it was too weak to do another one that would be any sort of help? I also bought that DC clamp and wanted to make sure even though the battery is weak would it still be accurate. I will post my findings with the DC clamp once the truck goes to sleep.
 
Blob said:
What was it charging at? A friend of mine had an alternator that had a failing rectifier in it, it would show as charging at around 14.4v and then spike to almost 20v every so often. It's probably worth checking that you're getting a consistent voltage when idling and get someone to rev the car as well to make sure it's stable and monitor it for a few minutes. It's a free test after all.
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I am going to do that too and post the results. Can I jump it and then do the test? I don't remember what he told me, but he said it was not overcharging. He had it for at least a week and didn't find anything. However, he told me the temperature probe was causing the fans to stay on, and every time you took it out it stopped. I ordered a new one and that solution only lasted a week. So im starting to question a lot of what has been done.
 
roythebus said:
You still haven't said what model it is, what engine? Petrol/diesel?
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Post #1 first line says 2004 HSE. That'll be a 2004 HSE L322 then.

Not sure what difference it would make to any of us if it were petrol or diesel but as the OP said he's in Massachusetts I'd suggest it very unlikely to be a diesel leaving us with the most likely option of the 4.4 Petrol V8. Would he experience a different set of faults if it was powered by the BMW TD6?
 
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