P38A EKA...

killerhaggis · Jun 20, 2020

Hi, I'm about ready to scrap it...

2000 4.6 , before I had a flat battery everything worked as it should remote,central locking etc, I put a fully charged new battery in, waited 30 mins before i tried anything, first thing was the remote wouldn't work on the central locking , I used key on drivers side to open, tried key in ignition and the message 'press remote or enter key code came up. Pressing the remote did nothing so I then entered the EKA code (after 4 turns to left) nothing.. tried entering EKA several times without success.. Am I missing something obvious? any thoughts appreciated before I send it to scrap

brianp38dse · Jun 20, 2020

You may well have a problem with the micro switches in that drivers door lock if the eka is not working.

wammers · Jun 20, 2020

Are you entering EKA code correctly would be first thought. Find someone with a Nanocom to disarm it for you. Then you can sync the fob.

killerhaggis · Jun 20, 2020

wammers said:
Are you entering EKA code correctly would be first thought. Find someone with a Nanocom to disarm it for you. Then you can sync the fob.

Yes, entering correctly, even the 4 turns to left before the code

RangeRoller dt · Jun 20, 2020

Does the red light come on the fob strongly? 2nd fob?
If your lucky the batteries gone weak in the fob if you can disarm with the fob key press in ignition would get you going

Mark Piercy · Jun 20, 2020

I can on mine being à 1999, turn the remote in the door to lock while pressing lock and unlock while pressing unlock. It may or may not help

romanrob · Jun 20, 2020

Resist the temptation to scrap it, it's doing exactly what it's meant to. Key fob lost sync due to flat battery, so that won't resync until you have sorted the immobilisation (second key suggestion above is a good shout). I would resist the temptation to tinker (and make things worse) and try and find the nanocom - either you have the wrong EKA, using the wrong process, or the microswitches aren't co-operating. Nano will solve for the last 2, but not the first. p16/ Locks and Alarm of 2000/ 2001 Owners Manual for precise EKA procedure. Open the door every second failure to avoid EKA lockout.

DanClarke · Jun 20, 2020

Start.....key turned to locked & back to vertical four times. <<Tells the BecM you are now going to enter the EKA Code>
Then <1st digit> entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <2nd> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <3rd> digit entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <4th> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Finally, Turn once to unlocked and all the doors should unlock and the car "should" be re-mobilised.
It is very important to make sure you deliberately and carefully execute each key-turn AND back to vertical (and no further).
The doorlock contacts do go dodgy with age & use.
The flashing of the side-repeaters or the dashboard lamp (depending on how the system was set up) are your only indications that your entries are being seen.
If they are not consistently being seen then you will need a Nanocom to re-mobilise the engine.

killerhaggis · Jun 20, 2020

DanClarke said:
Start.....key turned to locked & back to vertical four times. <<Tells the BecM you are now going to enter the EKA Code>
Then <1st digit> entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <2nd> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <3rd> digit entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <4th> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Finally, Turn once to unlocked and all the doors should unlock and the car "should" be re-mobilised.
It is very important to make sure you deliberately and carefully execute each key-turn AND back to vertical (and no further).
The doorlock contacts do go dodgy with age & use.
The flashing of the side-repeaters or the dashboard lamp (depending on how the system was set up) are your only indications that your entries are being seen.
If they are not consistently being seen then you will need a Nanocom to re-mobilise the engine.

That's exactly the method I have been using, it's looking likely that it could be micro switches

Mark Piercy · Jun 20, 2020

Have you had any issues with the locks activating by themselves?
Thats normally a sign of dodgy microswitches.

killerhaggis · Jun 20, 2020

Mark Piercy said:
Have you had any issues with the locks activating by themselves?
Thats normally a sign of dodgy microswitches.

Never had an issue before

killerhaggis · Jun 20, 2020

RangeRoller dt said:
Does the red light come on the fob strongly? 2nd fob?
If your lucky the batteries gone weak in the fob if you can disarm with the fob key press in ignition would get you going

New batteries in fob, strong red light.. but doesn't do anything

brianp38dse · Jun 20, 2020

Try Martyuk`s test for the door lock

back in a min when i get this sorted

killerhaggis · Jun 20, 2020

Thanks everyone for the replies, I'm going to check micro switches before I do anything else

Mark Piercy · Jun 20, 2020

Your welcome, good luck

brianp38dse · Jun 20, 2020

Hopefully that worked.

wammers · Jun 20, 2020

killerhaggis said:
New batteries in fob, strong red light.. but doesn't do anything

If you took longer than ten mins to change batteries fob will have lost sync. You cannot resync it until EKA has been accepted.

Datatek · Jun 20, 2020

On your year of car, the EKA code can be entered with a Nanocom if there is anyone near you that has got one.

wammers · Jun 20, 2020

Datatek said:
On your year of car, the EKA code can be entered with a Nanocom if there is anyone near you that has got one.

It can i have already told him that.

Gunnerhavesome · Jun 20, 2020

I have the same year and engine as you. Every year due to working away it sits with the battery off for about 9 months, so each time i reconnect i get the engine immobilised enter EKA. I always use the method as Danclarke describes and never had an issue until the micro switches packed in. Replaced the door assembly (at an eye watering cost as bought from Rimmers ) but all solved and bobs your auntie. Get in touch with Martyyuk and he might be able to sort you out at a much better rate. But micro switches are preferable to scrapping. Hope you get some success. You would miss the V8

P38A EKA...

Member

Well-Known Member

No longer with us, RIP

Member

Well-Sprung Member

Well fumbled member....

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Well fumbled member....

Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Well fumbled member....

Well-Known Member

Attachments

No longer with us, RIP

Well-Known Member

No longer with us, RIP

Well-Known Member

Similar threads