P38A EKA 9999

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Is the new fuse box the correct one for age and engine as there are quite a few different versions, just a thought trying to rule out things.
 
simonlap said:
There are no flashes of any light anywhere on the dash or on any of the external lights, there are no noises, bleeps, absolutely nothing when I try the EKA process. I can open the drivers door with the key, that is all I have. When I try the EKA I get key code locked after only 1 attempt whether I open the door between tries or not, makes no difference.. All I did was replace the fuse rely board.
Click to expand...

On the diesel loss of sync has no message on dash. Not sure about the petrol but thing probably the same.

It is possible that some has turned off the flashing for number accepted but it seems an odd thing to do. The fact opening the door makes o difference is poiting at the lock actuator as the door afar switch is inside and part of it. On the bottom of the lock actuator are 3 microswitches, all 3 have to work in order for the EKA code to be accepted.

It is worth talking to Mozz, he is an absolute legend at talking people through the process of getting these cars running. If he cannot talk you through then only diag will help.

Not sure we're at sell it yet. There is a last resort: if all else fails you can post it down the BECM from under the seat to @Rick-the-Pick (CallRova is his company) and he will disable the EKA etc. and set it so it won't ask again. @marty_uk could probably do it as well. Unless you get lucky and a member with a Nanocom drives past regularly.
 
simonlap said:
There are no flashes of any light anywhere on the dash or on any of the external lights, there are no noises, bleeps, absolutely nothing when I try the EKA process. I can open the drivers door with the key, that is all I have. When I try the EKA I get key code locked after only 1 attempt whether I open the door between tries or not, makes no difference.. All I did was replace the fuse rely board.
Click to expand...
Key code Lockout means you need diagnostics.
 
brianp38dse The part numbers on the fuse box are the same so from that I assume it is identical. I may put the old fuse box back and see if that makes any difference, it may have been sold because of that fault, who knows.
Grrrrrr I did the door check micro switch thing from the door actuator wiring following the instruction sheet from one of our members on this site. I will go over the door sequence check again to confirm first tests. I have been talking with Mozz on the phone, he sent me all the paperwork and explained the importance of talking my time and getting it absolutely right.
 
simonlap said:
brianp38dse The part numbers on the fuse box are the same so from that I assume it is identical. I may put the old fuse box back and see if that makes any difference, it may have been sold because of that fault, who knows.
Grrrrrr I did the door check micro switch thing from the door actuator wiring following the instruction sheet from one of our members on this site. I will go over the door sequence check again to confirm first tests. I have been talking with Mozz on the phone, he sent me all the paperwork and explained the importance of talking my time and getting it absolutely right.
Click to expand...
Which is what I said in post #10 ;)
 
It's me, I have the need to try everything possible known about the motor before I give up. I take into account things like 'what if this is the very first time that my particular sequence of events occurs' the fact that no lights or beeps or flashes happen. I'm putting the old box in and checking the micro switches again today.
 
Sounds like your BECM has gone into total lockout - which normal diagnostics won't help you with.
I think you're going to need to pull the BECM and send it off to get the internal lockouts reset - at which point it should be able to be put back in the vehicle and everything will be back to normal.

Drop me a PM - I have the equipment to be able to reset your BECM (just the lockouts, all your other vehicle information will be intact). I am away working this week, but if you can hold off another week, I can look at it when I get home, and then get it back to you ASAP.
 
Just back in from testing again, all wiring to doors is good, swapped the fuse relay board back to original, key code lockout at 1st attempt again, no flashes, beeps etc
 
simonlap said:
Just back in from testing again, all wiring to doors is good, swapped the fuse relay board back to original, key code lockout at 1st attempt again, no flashes, beeps etc
Click to expand...
Key code lockout means you cannot do anything, it needs diagnostics to reset the lockout and most normal diagnostics will not do it as martyUK said.
 
I removed the BECM and sent it to martyuk now it's back and all working. It was locked out and no way in except for the fix.
First class service, paperwork shows the eka I had was wrong. It's the luck that runs my life.
Another P38 saved.
 
Keycode lockout means you have entered the wrong EKA code three times. It should go out after thirty minutes or so. If the BECM has gone into alarmed mode the language and date will have changed. This can only be rectified either by entering the correct EKA code if accepted. Or be rectified by unlocking the BECM and entering the correct info. At which time the fob code and EKA code will be displayed with a BBS MSV2 and a very expensive module. As far as i am aware.
 
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I have the Faultmate MSV2 with the SM035 module for reading the BECM CPU.

It was in total lockout - and wasn't surprised that Simon couldn't do the EKA manually when he said that it was different to the one I'd retrieved from the BECM.
It's a V38 unit, so might have been able to disarm it with just Nanocom to start with, but that wouldn't have got me very far if the EKA was incorrect - so quicker/easier to just put it on the faultmate and retrieve the settings and reset the lockouts that way.

Glad I could help.
Cheers,
Marty
 
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