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Actually, they did build a skyscraper from the top down in London, the top was built then jacked up and the next section built under it and so on.
Pedant.
Actually, they did build a skyscraper from the top down in London, the top was built then jacked up and the next section built under it and so on.
Just thought you would like to knowPedant.
If you care to look in the "HOW TO" section there is a guide to how to step by step test the compressor for output AND check the diaphragm valve for leaking. It's not rocket science to check the most obvious things first in a logical sequence. It doesn't matter if the compressor is making 10 cubic foot a minute if the diaphragm is leaking not much is going into the tank. It was mentioned earlier but suppose you skipped that bit. Do things logically, you do not start to build a skyscraper from the bloody top downwards. It takes 10 seconds to check the diaphragm.
Yes, I did check it as per your "How To". No air was escaping while the compressor was running. When the compressor stopped at one point it did release air like a dump valve, rather appropriately as that's what I almost did in my boxers when I heard it.
OK now that you have established air pressure you can start to look for other things. Does the car now go up and down as it should. Do you have any diag?
I do have diag - cable and EASUnlock from Datatek.
The car does raise and lower however it takes a while to raise up on most occasions. There has been no difference since swapping the compressor over this morning.
Most mornings it will be flashing when I get in the car to raise up so it has clearly dropped a little over night. Other mornings it wont and it'll be sitting at normal height with no adjustment needed. I've also seen it being up high and dropping down in the morning when I get in.
Edit: There are no errors coming up with EASUnlock apart from 'Vehicle has moved' which I believe is normal/standard behaviour.
Okay!
Got in the car (having been out about 40 minutes ago) and as per, it was flashing when I started. Stopped flashing after a few seconds.
Let it run for 5 minutes. Grabbed my stop watch and started it at the same time I hit the down button. That took 20 seconds for the light to stop flashing. I then hit the stop watch again as I pressed the up button to go back to standard and it took 35 seconds for the light to stop flashing.
Not sure if it's helpful but I'll also add that once the engine was switched off I could hear the valves clicking away, even after I'd closed the door and locked it and walked away, they were clicking away.
So, 18 seconds to go down and 15 to get back up.
at home I'm on a slight downward slope.
Haha!
Anyway. Tried it again when she got in the car. 15 seconds to drop and over 1 minute to rise!
...and before anyone says anything, no, she's not 'heavy set' or an elephant
Haha!
Anyway. Tried it again when she got in the car. 15 seconds to drop and over 1 minute to rise!
...and before anyone says anything, no, she's not 'heavy set' or an elephant
Since when was the air storage tank under the drivers seat?Compressor should be tested as per Wammers' How-To.
If you park up and stick her on extended ride height, let her level then stop the engine and immediately pull out the delay timer under the passenger seat and then leave for the night you'll see if she is dropping or not. Shouldn't budge overnight. If a corner drops it is defective somewhere between the bag and the block - probably the bag. If all drop then an an issue with the block.
If all stays up then storage side somewhere. You can get a guage from Activ-Air with a bit of pipe and a T piece and splice it into the pipe that goes to the storage tank under the driver's seat. Should go up to 135-140psi. Once cut off you shouldn't drop much at all overnight, maybe 10-20 psi absolute max.
Since when was the air storage tank under the drivers seat?
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