EAS - My tale of woe.

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wammers said:
You asked a question you got an answer. You questioned it. You got an explanation. Either follow the advice or not it is up to you. ;)
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No no, read again.

I asked if the sensor can cause the problem because it's not telling the ECU that the height has changed and asked if that will cause the same issues as a stuck valve - as Saint V8 had suggested. :rolleyes:

I'm always appreciative of help, as you know, so I'm not the kind of person to question someone's knowledge on a subject.
 
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domino said:
I haven't rebuilt this one, no. It's about 6 months old however I know if there's a leaky bag somewhere it may have been working overtime and worn out.
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What do you mean 6 months old? 6 months from brand new? 6 months from rebuild or 6 months from second hand on ebay etc?
 
Sorry mate but if you know you have a leaking bag and have done nothing about it then you deserve to be gang banged by your in-laws. Quickest way to feck your compressor. Mine has been a bit lazy in the cold weather so new parts arriving tomorrow.
 
domino said:
No no, read again.

I asked if the sensor can cause the problem because it's not telling the ECU that the height has changed and asked if that will cause the same issues as a stuck valve - as Saint V8 had suggested. :rolleyes:

I'm always appreciative of help, as you know, so I'm not the kind of person to question someone's knowledge on a subject.
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I did try to explain that. If the sensor is fine unloaded and at other heights there is no reason to believe it will become faulty when the car is loaded. Look at the obvious first. If for instance the reading on the sensor is 105 unloaded standard height and the ECU is reading 105 and lifting the suspension to that height. That takes a certain amount of air pressure. If when loaded it is reading 95 the ECU will attempt to raise it to read 105 to maintain level. If the ECU commands the driver pack to open that corner valve to increase air pressure to lift the corner to read 105 and there is not enough air pressure in the system to do it. If after a time there is no movement the ECU will assume the valve is stuck shut. Other than full or empty used to start and stop the compressor the ECU does not have a clue how much pressure is in the system. Look at compressor output and pressure first of all. If that is good then look elsewhere but not before. Without air pressure no matter how good the rest of the system is the EAS CANNOT work.
 
Well, that's the thing - I don't know if I do. From all the reading I've done (and I've done a lot on here and other forums) I was leaning more towards a problem with the valve block and, with the weekend's fun, also now the rear sensors.

The rear bags were also done 6 months ago when the compressor was done. The only thing I have no receipts or history for is the valve block.
 
domino said:
6 months from brand new - it was replaced by a garage in London for a brand new unit.
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From Land Rover? It could just have been a used unit...

Get a seal kit and rebuild it, its worth it just for a service item. Even me who is useless and lazy can manage it!
 
Loading up the car may push the height sensor beyond it's normal range as the suspension is locked with the tailgate open. They can then pick up crap on the unused part of the track and cease to function correctly. I've had it happen.
The faults you have can be, as has been said, due to lack of air pressure, that could be due to the compressor failing or a leaking airspring.
Forget the valve block for the moment. Do the compressor check in Wammers "How To", if the compressor is good, check for leaks on the air spring concerned and the pipework.
Valve block is the last thing to check.
 
quavey said:
From Land Rover? It could just have been a used unit...

Get a seal kit and rebuild it, its worth it just for a service item. Even me who is useless and lazy can manage it!
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Yep - I've got one here that I shall use. Also got 2 spare compressors that need doing too so that I've always got a hotswap!
 
domino said:
Well, that's the thing - I don't know if I do. From all the reading I've done (and I've done a lot on here and other forums) I was leaning more towards a problem with the valve block and, with the weekend's fun, also now the rear sensors.

The rear bags were also done 6 months ago when the compressor was done. The only thing I have no receipts or history for is the valve block.
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The valve block and it's driver are slaves to the ECU. You just won't listen will you. What do you consider in the valve block could cause the trouble you have recently had? Apart from maybe a leaking diaphragm valve. Refurb it by all means, but don't look to it to be the main cause of your recent troubles.
 
stustrong said:
this is the things that put me off taking the coils off and putting eas back on id never trust the eas
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You sound like a proper wimp, where's your sense of adventure? In 9 years of ownership I have had to reseal the compressor, change the air bags and re-ring the valve block, big deal. The x type needs at least one new spring every MOT because of the crap metal the springs are made of and the state of the roads in this area.:D
 
So, an update!

I've replaced the compressor with a known good one (just finished doing a refurb). Tested the old one and it's blasting out air perfectly fine.

I'm guessing it must be a leak somewhere!
 
domino said:
So, an update!

I've replaced the compressor with a known good one (just finished doing a refurb). Tested the old one and it's blasting out air perfectly fine.

I'm guessing it must be a leak somewhere!
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Did you check the diaphragm valve yet?
 
So, soapy water method used on the valve block, dryer and connections to all 4 bags - nae bubbles or air to be seen. Also, as a precaution, checked the rear bags for wear and gave them the soapy water treatment and got nada.

Back to the valve block?
 
domino said:
In the valve block? Nope - was doing the compressor first as per advice :)

My next plan of action was to go over everything with soapy water.
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If you care to look in the "HOW TO" section there is a guide to how to step by step test the compressor for output AND check the diaphragm valve for leaking. It's not rocket science to check the most obvious things first in a logical sequence. It doesn't matter if the compressor is making 10 cubic foot a minute if the diaphragm is leaking not much is going into the tank. It was mentioned earlier but suppose you skipped that bit. Do things logically, you do not start to build a skyscraper from the bloody top downwards. It takes 10 seconds to check the diaphragm.
 
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wammers said:
If you care to look in the "HOW TO" section there is a guide to how to step by step test the compressor for output AND check the diaphragm valve for leaking. It's not rocket science to check the most obvious things first in a logical sequence. It doesn't matter if the compressor is making 10 cubic foot a minute if the diaphragm is leaking not much is going into the tank. It was mentioned earlier but suppose you skipped that bit. Do things logically, you do not start to build a skyscraper from the bloody top downwards.
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Actually, they did build a skyscraper from the top down in London, the top was built then jacked up and the next section built under it and so on.:D
 
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