P38A EAS issue 35mph max, normal ride light only.

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If the OBD connector was corroded, it was corroded. You'd have had to sort it out permanently sooner or later.

Still, fix fuse 44 and see where that gets you.... post the results!
I’ll post results darthdude but I’m down another rabbit hole at the mo...... by the way, OBD wasn’t corroded. Check my previous post where I con checked it after I cut it off. Perhaps the reason the fuse blew is the other corroded connectors. See my response to pwood999 for explanation. Thanks for all the help gents.
 
If the OBD connector was corroded, it was corroded. You'd have had to sort it out permanently sooner or later.

Still, fix fuse 44 and see where that gets you.... post the results!
Well, cleaned C104 and C204, spliced in new OBD changed fuse 44, that set the alarm off and blew the fuse. I’m guessing like my first post on this thread. Anyway I thought I’d try and run the software expecting it to be in the same condition with no Rx values, to my surprise it ran as should. Faults in the pics attached. Any ideas?
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That conector is defo fubar, if its th a post one just cut it out a solder and heat shrink will sort it its only there for factory assembly.
 
That conector is defo fubar, if its th a post one just cut it out a solder and heat shrink will sort it its only there for factory assembly.
Do you recon that’s what’s blowing the fuse?
How do I clear those faults? They would have been there for years, then I can run it again and see what the current faults are.
 
Do you recon that’s what’s blowing the fuse?
How do I clear those faults? They would have been there for years, then I can run it again and see what the current faults are.

To clear the faults click on the faults icon,
The conectors in the A posts are well known trouble points so best sorted they can throw up allsorts and if damp could well be blowing a fuse.
 
Well, cleaned C104 and C204, spliced in new OBD changed fuse 44, that set the alarm off and blew the fuse. I’m guessing like my first post on this thread. Anyway I thought I’d try and run the software expecting it to be in the same condition with no Rx values, to my surprise it ran as should. Faults in the pics attached. Any ideas? View attachment 230266View attachment 230267
YOWZA!

That's a lot of faults. I agree with you though.... clear the faults, check the A pillar connectors as per @brianp38dse 's suggestion and try again, see what faults it's throwing up now, as opposed to faults that have been around for years.
 
Good job with the OBD connector, btw... that's one thing sorted permanently at least... and didn't you say it was visibly corroded? Just because you get a circuit when you go test it with a multimeter doesn't mean a serial signal can get through... and that's assuming the multimeter probe isn't getting a better contact on the corroded connector than the diagnostic plug.
 
F44 powers the EAS ECU (Via the timer relay), and the BBUS "Battery Backed Up Alarm Sounder". If F44 keeps blowing, then either of those have wiring fault or are faulty. Most likely is the Alarm Sounder. The footwell connectors will not blow the fuse as far as I know, but they will prevent EAS Communications.

Also if F44 is blown, anything you get in the diagnostic software is bogus, because the EAS ECU is not powered.
 
F44 powers the EAS ECU (Via the timer relay), and the BBUS "Battery Backed Up Alarm Sounder". If F44 keeps blowing, then either of those have wiring fault or are faulty. Most likely is the Alarm Sounder. The footwell connectors will not blow the fuse as far as I know, but they will prevent EAS Communications.

Also if F44 is blown, anything you get in the diagnostic software is bogus, because the EAS ECU is not powered.
Ok, many thanks, I’ve run the unlock software a few times and cleared faults but it comes up with the same every time so I’ll ignore that as you say it may be bogus. What can be done about the alarm sounder? Sorry, I have no idea what, where it is and if I can simply isolate without causing more problems. Once again, thanks
 
Ok, many thanks, I’ve run the unlock software a few times and cleared faults but it comes up with the same every time so I’ll ignore that as you say it may be bogus. What can be done about the alarm sounder? Sorry, I have no idea what, where it is and if I can simply isolate without causing more problems. Once again, thanks
As Pete said sort the connectors behind the A post kick panel's loads of spurious faults are down to bad comms. Cut them,out,solder and heat shrink the wires.
 
The alarm sounder is behind the battey box under the fuse box, you should be able to unplug it or cut and seal the ends its not as if anyone is going to nick a p38 in this day an age and if they can manage to get it started there welcome to it:D
 
The alarm sounder is behind the battey box under the fuse box, you should be able to unplug it or cut and seal the ends its not as if anyone is going to nick a p38 in this day an age and if they can manage to get it started there welcome to it:D
Thanks. I’ll isolate the alarm sounder then try another fuse to begin with. If that works I’ll run and clear faults then run again to see what come up. I’d be ****ed if someone stole the Old Girl, I’d rather they nicked the iPace! I’ll let you know how I get on.
 
As Pete said sort the connectors behind the A post kick panel's loads of spurious faults are down to bad comms. Cut them,out,solder and heat shrink the wires.
I’m going get round to that tomcat after I sort the blown fuse. Having had my head in there to clean them I’m not looking forward to soldering them! Looks like a 3 handed job and room for 1..... I think I’ll Tin the ends, overlap the ends and twist a bit of light gauge fuse wire to hold them then solder. Sounds like a plan.
 
I’m going get round to that tomcat after I sort the blown fuse. Having had my head in there to clean them I’m not looking forward to soldering them! Looks like a 3 handed job and room for 1..... I think I’ll Tin the ends, overlap the ends and twist a bit of light gauge fuse wire to hold them then solder. Sounds like a plan.
Don't forget the heat shrink.;):D
 
The alarm sounder is behind the battey box under the fuse box, you should be able to unplug it or cut and seal the ends its not as if anyone is going to nick a p38 in this day an age and if they can manage to get it started there welcome to it:D
Just a thought, if it’s not the alarm sounder then it’s the timer relay under the seat?
 
Well, cleaned C104 and C204, spliced in new OBD changed fuse 44, that set the alarm off and blew the fuse. I’m guessing like my first post on this thread. Anyway I thought I’d try and run the software expecting it to be in the same condition with no Rx values, to my surprise it ran as should. Faults in the pics attached. Any ideas? View attachment 230266View attachment 230267

Not real. When you see that it usually means bad comms.
 
A guick update. I pulled the connector off of the BBUS. Apart from the corrosion and 1 of the 4 pins pulling out of the unit and staying in the plug pin 4 looks to have melted the connector locally. Pics attached. I’m out of 10a fuses so need a trip out to find some before I can see if it’s cured fuse 44 blowing.
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A guick update. I pulled the connector off of the BBUS. Apart from the corrosion and 1 of the 4 pins pulling out of the unit and staying in the plug pin 4 looks to have melted the connector locally. Pics attached. I’m out of 10a fuses so need a trip out to find some before I can see if it’s cured fuse 44 blowing. View attachment 230318

That is defo fubar and a clear cause of an issue, we will wait the out come with new fuses:D
 
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