P38A P38 - intermittent EAS fault

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P38Joe said:
Spent my Sunday afternoon removing the white connectors and cleaning up the connector pins around the compressor. Just got back from a drive and everything seems to be behaving itself… for the moment! Cycles through the ride heights in seconds and no unexpected ‘jumps’ to full height.

Thanks @Datatek and @Rubberknees for the advice!
Click to expand...
Well done
 
The problem has returned - time to bite the bullet and replace the drive pack. Car started to jump to highest ride height again and then the 'EAS Fault' on the dashboard reappeared. Plugged into the laptop and 'pressure signal constantly high'.
 
Did you check the connector contacts between driver pack & solenoids ? It’s underneath the valve block so it has to come out. Often the contacts are loose even if the plastic housing is tight. These can also cause random extended mode because the ECU cannot adjust so it faults.
 
P38Joe said:
The problem has returned - time to bite the bullet and replace the drive pack. Car started to jump to highest ride height again and then the 'EAS Fault' on the dashboard reappeared. Plugged into the laptop and 'pressure signal constantly high'.
Click to expand...
Most driver packs can be easily repaired if you can solder and have a suitable soldering iron.
 
Thought I'd update everyone for the benefit of the forum - changed the Drivers pack two weekends ago. TOUCH WOOD - it has been good as gold ever since. Seems to be much more responsive when adjusting between ride heights now - seems to do it in a matter of seconds. Perhaps an element of the placebo effect but the ride also seems less 'crashy'.

Was very easy to replace, whipped the compressor out and was able to get the drivers pack out without needing to move the valve block. Two of the bolts were quite hard to reach but soon got there with a little time and patience. Took about 45 mins all in all.

@Datatek I did look into the soldering option, but didn't trust my own ability in attempting it!

Will see how it goes, new A/C condenser is the next job on the list before the warmer weather gets here.

Happy Motoring.

Joe
 
P38Joe said:
Thought I'd update everyone for the benefit of the forum - changed the Drivers pack two weekends ago. TOUCH WOOD - it has been good as gold ever since. Seems to be much more responsive when adjusting between ride heights now - seems to do it in a matter of seconds. Perhaps an element of the placebo effect but the ride also seems less 'crashy'.

Was very easy to replace, whipped the compressor out and was able to get the drivers pack out without needing to move the valve block. Two of the bolts were quite hard to reach but soon got there with a little time and patience. Took about 45 mins all in all.

@Datatek I did look into the soldering option, but didn't trust my own ability in attempting it!

Will see how it goes, new A/C condenser is the next job on the list before the warmer weather gets here.

Happy Motoring.

Joe
Click to expand...
Don't throw the old driver pack away, they may be becoming scarce.
 
cornishboater said:
Many thanks
Click to expand...
Sorry for the delay, been a bit busy.
The first photo is of the circuit board with all the potting removed. At the left end near where the wires come out you can see a 100uf electrolytic. This is the component that most often causes random EAS faults.
The replacement needs to be 100uf, 63volt 105C, ideally an axial lead device. Pick out the potting carefully to expose the component, cut the wires as close to the component as possible, drop the new one in and solder to the wires of the old part making sure you have the polarity correct. You can see from the second photo I did not have available an axial lead electrolytic, just not quite so easy to fit but works just the same. I have repaired 3 so far and they have worked fine.
A higher voltage rating is OK. It doesn't matter if the diameter of the new part is greater than the old part as there is sufficient room between the driver pack and the valve block. Reseal with electrical grade silicone.
IMG_1327.jpg





Mark's driver pack.jpg

IMG_2859.JPG

Hope that helps
 
Datatek said:
Sorry for the delay, been a bit busy.
The first photo is of the circuit board with all the potting removed. At the left end near where the wires come out you can see a 100uf electrolytic. This is the component that most often causes random EAS faults.
The replacement needs to be 100uf, 63volt 105C, ideally an axial lead device. Pick out the potting carefully to expose the component, cut the wires as close to the component as possible, drop the new one in and solder to the wires of the old part making sure you have the polarity correct. You can see from the second photo I did not have available an axial lead electrolytic, just not quite so easy to fit but works just the same. I have repaired 3 so far and they have worked fine.
A higher voltage rating is OK. It doesn't matter if the diameter of the new part is greater than the old part as there is sufficient room between the driver pack and the valve block. Reseal with electrical grade silicone.
View attachment 287076




View attachment 287078
View attachment 287079
Hope that helps
Click to expand...
Your a star Keith 😎👍
 
Datatek said:
Sorry for the delay, been a bit busy.
The first photo is of the circuit board with all the potting removed. At the left end near where the wires come out you can see a 100uf electrolytic. This is the component that most often causes random EAS faults.
The replacement needs to be 100uf, 63volt 105C, ideally an axial lead device. Pick out the potting carefully to expose the component, cut the wires as close to the component as possible, drop the new one in and solder to the wires of the old part making sure you have the polarity correct. You can see from the second photo I did not have available an axial lead electrolytic, just not quite so easy to fit but works just the same. I have repaired 3 so far and they have worked fine.
A higher voltage rating is OK. It doesn't matter if the diameter of the new part is greater than the old part as there is sufficient room between the driver pack and the valve block. Reseal with electrical grade silicone.
View attachment 287076




View attachment 287078
View attachment 287079
Hope that helps
Click to expand...
An absolute star, many thanks keith
 
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