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- 19,297
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- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Tried that when I first bought my car. Then thought f*ck it and got a block off Kurt. 2 actually. One is still in the box in my shed somewhere.
P38A EAS dropping at rear
- Thread starter pwood999
- Start date
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Tried that when I first bought my car. Then thought f*ck it and got a block off Kurt. 2 actually. One is still in the box in my shed somewhere.
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- 3,878
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- Near Heathrow.
Could be interested. How do they differ to heavily used valves ? Deeper dents on the rubber or better springs ?I have a full set of as new solenoids available Pete if you are interested.
kurtjohnson10
Well-Known Member
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- midlands
They are the same valves just not worn out ot hardened.
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Kurt, I sent PM about buying newer valves.
Another update for all though. Yesterday I gently sanded the faces of Inlet & Exhaust valves on both block in car & the spare on the bench. Now somewhat over 24 hours later the car has not dropped at all as far as I can see, and the valve block on bench has lost perhaps 0.5 PSI. Will see what happens over the weekend, etc.
It seems removing the circular dent on these valves, and exposing the softer rubber inside does seem to allow better sealing. Also with Inlet & Exhaust sealing better, even a small seep on the corner valves is contained (and these are all but impossible to re-face).
Another update for all though. Yesterday I gently sanded the faces of Inlet & Exhaust valves on both block in car & the spare on the bench. Now somewhat over 24 hours later the car has not dropped at all as far as I can see, and the valve block on bench has lost perhaps 0.5 PSI. Will see what happens over the weekend, etc.
It seems removing the circular dent on these valves, and exposing the softer rubber inside does seem to allow better sealing. Also with Inlet & Exhaust sealing better, even a small seep on the corner valves is contained (and these are all but impossible to re-face).
- Posts
- 3,878
- Location
- Near Heathrow.
Update time. Installed the new solenoid valves from Kurt, and the valve block now seems to seal better. Rear right still dropping albeit slower than before. Time to re-investigate the air-bags again. Didn't find any leaks on the bags or airlines previously, so dug a little deeper.
Car on axle stands & wheels off. Then set the car at Access, Motorway, Standard & Extended while each time covering the airbags in loads of soapy water. It seems there's a very slow leak in the fold in the rubber, but only when the bag is above the halfway point between Standard & Extended. It's easy to spot when fully extended. My suspicion is the leak was also happening when parked at Standard, but exceedingly difficult to spot. The soapy water evaporated faster than the leak, but overnight it dropped.
Ordered a new pair of airbags because the non-leaking left bag, is starting to look a bit perished at the fold.
Car on axle stands & wheels off. Then set the car at Access, Motorway, Standard & Extended while each time covering the airbags in loads of soapy water. It seems there's a very slow leak in the fold in the rubber, but only when the bag is above the halfway point between Standard & Extended. It's easy to spot when fully extended. My suspicion is the leak was also happening when parked at Standard, but exceedingly difficult to spot. The soapy water evaporated faster than the leak, but overnight it dropped.
Ordered a new pair of airbags because the non-leaking left bag, is starting to look a bit perished at the fold.
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Should have seen that with delay relay disabled. Spotting leaks with soapy water is very hard unless they're totally shot. Impossible if leaking where the cap at the top is.
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- 58,170
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- Preston Lancs.
As said many times the only places in the valve block that can cause a corner to drop are the small o,ring under the solenoid valve seat or the solenoid end seal itself. All other o,rings in a solenoid valve can only leak when the corner is being filled.
kurtjohnson10
Well-Known Member
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- midlands
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Mines been like that since lock down begun
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Updated my valve block test rig with 3V power supply instead of batteries. Now the gauges stay on as long as they have air pressure.
Also got a cheap Mercedes air tank on eBay, so now have a reservoir.
Added a ballon over the exhaust silence so I can if anything leaks out there.
Corner valves all holding good, but got a slow leak through NRV-1. The tank pressure drops slowly inflating the ballon !! After pressurising, I disconnected the pump & inserted a gauge. This seems to show a small leak back through the pump inlet, which just lifts the needle off the stop !! Not enough to worry about though.
While cleaning NRV's, one of them broke. Valve block currently only has NRV 1 & 3, but it still works ok. NRV-2 is always open when pump is running, or tank pressurised, so doesn't really make much difference as long as the Inlet valve is good.
Also got a cheap Mercedes air tank on eBay, so now have a reservoir.
Added a ballon over the exhaust silence so I can if anything leaks out there.
Corner valves all holding good, but got a slow leak through NRV-1. The tank pressure drops slowly inflating the ballon !! After pressurising, I disconnected the pump & inserted a gauge. This seems to show a small leak back through the pump inlet, which just lifts the needle off the stop !! Not enough to worry about though.
While cleaning NRV's, one of them broke. Valve block currently only has NRV 1 & 3, but it still works ok. NRV-2 is always open when pump is running, or tank pressurised, so doesn't really make much difference as long as the Inlet valve is good.
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
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Looks like that VB had a bit of moisture in it
Mine looked a tad healthier!
Mine looked a tad healthier!
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My thoughts as well. It's been sitting in cold garage since November !! Will strip it, dry, re-assemble & wrap it up !! All the seals are new so should be ok.
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- Near Heathrow.
Update time. Not changed anything either on the bench test valve block or the car. . . . . BUT . . . . .they are behaving nicely since the weather warmed up a bit.
And FYI, a Mercedes (or L322) Wabco pump in good condition (new piston ring) can fill a 5 litre tank to 140PSI in 1min 52secs. Not tried on the 10L P38 tank yet, but might be work looking at
- Bench Valve Block, now holds pressure pretty well. Tank started at 140psi, and at 116psi after 14 days. Four corners have dropped 1psi each.
- Car is now rising at the rear while parked again, but adjust to normal height within few seconds of starting the car.
And FYI, a Mercedes (or L322) Wabco pump in good condition (new piston ring) can fill a 5 litre tank to 140PSI in 1min 52secs. Not tried on the 10L P38 tank yet, but might be work looking at
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
And FYI, a Mercedes (or L322) Wabco pump in good condition (new piston ring) can fill a 5 litre tank to 140PSI in 1min 52secs. Not tried on the 10L P38 tank yet, but might be work looking at
Cost?!
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regarding the l322 pump, that has crossed my mind as they do work more efficiently...Update time. Not changed anything either on the bench test valve block or the car. . . . . BUT . . . . .they are behaving nicely since the weather warmed up a bit.
It certainly seems when the temperature is below 4-5 deg C, the valves simply don't seal very well.
- Bench Valve Block, now holds pressure pretty well. Tank started at 140psi, and at 116psi after 14 days. Four corners have dropped 1psi each.
- Car is now rising at the rear while parked again, but adjust to normal height within few seconds of starting the car.
And FYI, a Mercedes (or L322) Wabco pump in good condition (new piston ring) can fill a 5 litre tank to 140PSI in 1min 52secs. Not tried on the 10L P38 tank yet, but might be work looking at
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It was about £100 including a Merc valve block that I've been playing with.
