P38A Driver`s door will not open and windows will not open

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pete12345 said:
Small saw blade in through rear passenger door I’ve you can see in can you see the small green clip attached
Click to expand...
Good morning, there was a red clip that I could see where the rod from my door handle popped out. It fell off yesterday when I was positioning the rod I made in to the empty hole on the latch. Can you give a bit more detail and what this will accomplish? Also, why won't the door open if I'm moving the latch downward?
Thanks
 
My mistake there was a red one but it’s the same as green I think on passenger door before 1999 after 99 they went green
 

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I’ve you replace that red / green plastic piece and get it into the hole and it doesn’t open as said by data door mechanism cut the little bars from rear door access
 
Sounds like that door is superlocked.

Can you access the connector in the door and get to it?
I wonder if you can apply a voltage to the superlock motor to get it to work?

If its "superlocked" the sill button and internal handle will not work.

You may have too mangle the door card for better access.

@Datatek & @pete12345 are talking about getting in the gap between the back door and front door from the outside. you can just see the "latch shackle" That needs cutting.

J
 

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marjon said:
Sounds like that door is superlocked.

Can you access the connector in the door and get to it?
I wonder if you can apply a voltage to the superlock motor to get it to work?

If its "superlocked" the sill button and internal handle will not work.

You may have too mangle the door card for better access.

@Datatek & @pete12345 are talking about getting in the gap between the back door and front door from the outside. you can just see the "latch shackle" That needs cutting.

J
Click to expand...
Sounds like a good call to me, a replacement shackle would be cheaper than destroying the door card.
 
marjon said:
Sounds like that door is superlocked.

Can you access the connector in the door and get to it?
I wonder if you can apply a voltage to the superlock motor to get it to work?

If its "superlocked" the sill button and internal handle will not work.

You may have too mangle the door card for better access.

@Datatek & @pete12345 are talking about getting in the gap between the back door and front door from the outside. you can just see the "latch shackle" That needs cutting.

J
Click to expand...
Thanks for the clarification. Okay, I just checked with a light and rear door open, I can see the shackle. I could not before but it's cloudy this morning and the garage is darker. I shined the light between the opened rear door and can see the shackle. I will get a blade that cut steel the best for my reciprocating saw after work today. Thanks to you all! I will post an update as soon as I can.
Jesse
 
pete12345 said:
I’ve you replace that red / green plastic piece and get it into the hole and it doesn’t open as said by data door mechanism cut the little bars from rear door access
Click to expand...
Thanks for all the advice. Going to Home Depot and the best steel cutting blade for my reciprocating saw. Once I get the door open, can I get the latch to un-superlock and work again or do I to replace the latch?
Thanks
 
Okay all I'm going to saw the shackle after work today.
Can I get the latch to un-superlock without removing or do I have to remove the latch and replace?
Thanks,
 
Rover9676 said:
Can I get the latch to un-superlock without removing or do I have to remove the latch and replace?
Click to expand...

You could try powering it from my previous post. But probably easier to take it out and disable the superlock motor.

Not been in amongst it so cant advice anymore:).

get plenty of tape to cover as much of the paintwork cos it will suffer;).

J
 
Once you get the door open try to run the superlock motor to see if it disengages. If not you will need to remove the latch & open on the bench. Carefully operate the latch manually until you get an understanding of how it works. Then move the pawl to the correct position so it cannot engage again. Finally remove the smaller motor, or cut the wire so it cannot happen again.

If you're not confident doing all this get a new latch. LHD drivers door latches are generally cheaper in UK !!
 
pwood999 said:
Once you get the door open try to run the superlock motor to see if it disengages. If not you will need to remove the latch & open on the bench. Carefully operate the latch manually until you get an understanding of how it works. Then move the pawl to the correct position so it cannot engage again. Finally remove the smaller motor, or cut the wire so it cannot happen again.

If you're not confident doing all this get a new latch. LHD drivers door latches are generally cheaper in UK !!
Click to expand...

+1. Some of the MGF of the same year are the same or similar and have the same motors inside. Motors normally burn out from RF interference so make sure you have a gen 3 RF receiver, one of Marty's filters or Brian's remote jog switch trick. Think American ones are on 315mHz instead of 433 MHz.
 
If buying MGF latches, be careful to make sure it has the 3 microswitches. UK Left door only have 2 switches, so no sue for US Drivers door.

The clue is the number of wires - should be 6 or 7.
 
pwood999 said:
Once you get the door open try to run the superlock motor to see if it disengages. If not you will need to remove the latch & open on the bench. Carefully operate the latch manually until you get an understanding of how it works. Then move the pawl to the correct position so it cannot engage again. Finally remove the smaller motor, or cut the wire so it cannot happen again.

If you're not confident doing all this get a new latch. LHD drivers door latches are generally cheaper in UK !!
Click to expand...
Hello, and thanks! Do you have a site or link where I can purchase as new or used LH driver's door latch?
 
pwood999 said:
If buying MGF latches, be careful to make sure it has the 3 microswitches. UK Left door only have 2 switches, so no sue for US Drivers door.

The clue is the number of wires - should be 6 or 7.
Click to expand...
Thanks! If you know of or have a site or link where I can buy a new or used US LH driver's door latch?
 
Grrrrrr said:
+1. Some of the MGF of the same year are the same or similar and have the same motors inside. Motors normally burn out from RF interference so make sure you have a gen 3 RF receiver, one of Marty's filters or Brian's remote jog switch trick. Think American ones are on 315mHz instead of 433 MHz.
Click to expand...
Thanks! Will research
 
Hello all, I cut off the shackle in about 1 1/2 hours, far less than the 3 to 4 days of gaining entry and attempting to open the door from the inside (Photos attached). I covered the doors with some aluminum flashing from Home Depot .67 cents a piece. I removed the latch from the door,, placed it on the bench, fiddled with it for a few minutes and got the latch to release. Used a screwdriver as the shackle to make sure when I moved the linkage/ears/legs it would release and, it did a few times. I noticed the latch would kind of nudge itself to the unmatched position enough to release from a shackle. Then when I pushed the into a full-hooked on shackle position it would not release to an open/ unmatched position. I took back to the door, inserted the plug, turned on the ignition and maneuvered linkage the doorsl locked and unlocked but the driver's latch would not release/unlatch. After 30 more minutes of fiddling with the latch on the bench I could not get the latch to move to the unlatch/open position again. Not comfortable with opening the latch and performing a repair so I'll start looking for another latch. Mine has 6 wires and 1 ground wire on a separate plug.
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Grrrrrr said:
+1. Some of the MGF of the same year are the same or similar and have the same motors inside. Motors normally burn out from RF interference so make sure you have a gen 3 RF receiver, one of Marty's filters or Brian's remote jog switch trick. Think American ones are on 315mHz instead of 433 MHz.
Click to expand...
Just confirming all of the above, plus a note that Japanese imports are 315mHz but the marty filter works on them too.
 
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