Door locking problems

Gaz5535 · Jan 15, 2015

Hello, I have been having problems with the central locking system# on my 'S' plate 38 when I press the key fob it doesn't lock the drivers door. So I have been locking it with the ignition key for the last year. Of late it has been very difficult to lock, so I have been squirting some ptfe WD 40 type stuff in the lock with the tube on the can. But it is not really helping now, has anybody got any ideas how to sort either the central locking system,# or the lock?#
Gaz

scstp · Jan 15, 2015

Had the same problem on my disco, had to change the door actuator. Cost about £70 and a quite simple job. Hope this helps/Pete

Datatek · Jan 15, 2015

Gaz5535 said:
Hello, I have been having problems with the central locking system# on my 'S' plate 38 when I press the key fob it doesn't lock the drivers door. So I have been locking it with the ignition key for the last year. Of late it has been very difficult to lock, so I have been squirting some ptfe WD 40 type stuff in the lock with the tube on the can. But it is not really helping now, has anybody got any ideas how to sort either the central locking system,# or the lock?#
Gaz

I take it the FOB unlocks the car? Check the ignition switch, if the little flap doesn't close when the key is removed, it inhibits locking, usually accompanied by a "Key in ignition" message on the dash which is easily missed.

Gaz5535 · Jan 15, 2015

Ok, thanks I will have a look tomoz, but I am sure that I would have noticed it before now. I will report back to you.
Gaz

Gaz5535 · Jan 15, 2015

scstp said:
Had the same problem on my disco, had to change the door actuator. Cost about £70 and a quite simple job. Hope this helps/Pete

Cheers Pete, I will check that out.

Gaz5535 · Jan 16, 2015

Right, here is ths the update as promised. The fob will only lock the two n/side & rear o/side doors. Leaving the tailgate & the drivers door unlocked, but the key locks every lock. There is no warning on the dashboard, when you take the key from the ignition switch & the orifice to the lock is closed.
Gaz

Datatek · Jan 16, 2015

Gaz5535 said:
Right, here is ths the update as promised. The fob will only lock the two n/side & rear o/side doors. Leaving the tailgate & the drivers door unlocked, but the key locks every lock. There is no warning on the dashboard, when you take the key from the ignition switch & the orifice to the lock is closed.
Gaz

So the drivers door lock motor is fecked. The tailgate will lock when the drivers door works.

dashwoodlandy · Jan 16, 2015

Datatek said:
I take it the FOB unlocks the car? Check the ignition switch, if the little flap doesn't close when the key is removed, it inhibits locking, usually accompanied by a "Key in ignition" message on the dash which is easily missed.

Thanks for the information about the little flap, i used a little WD40 in the ignition lack and it cured both the "key in Ignition" message and meant I didn't have to jiggle the key in the lock before starting.

1 issue down several to go.

Gaz5535 · Jan 16, 2015

Datatek said:
So the drivers door lock motor is fecked. The tailgate will lock when the drivers door works.

Ah, I see, so ate they avaliable nice and cheap, to keep the theme going of not spending a lot on the old girl! Is it much of a job? Oh, it wouldn't be a micro switch would it? I did read somewhere that they play up!

tomcat59alan · Jan 16, 2015

Gaz5535 said:
Ah, I see, so ate they avaliable nice and cheap, to keep the theme going of not spending a lot on the old girl! Is it much of a job? Oh, it wouldn't be a micro switch would it? I did read somewhere that they play up!

No they are not very cheap, £150 ish. No it's not much of a job and the micro switches are not available on their own before you ask.

pwood999 · Jan 16, 2015

look for MGF door locks, and compare the pictures to P38 locks (much cheaper). Make sure you get the right type with three microswitches. The motors & microswitches will fit inside the P38 lock mechanism if you want to refurb yours.

If you feel really creative you can also disable the super lock so you never get that problem.

Edit: see this http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/3180154-post12.html

Gaz5535 · Jan 17, 2015

tomcat59alan said:
No they are not very cheap, £150 ish. No it's not much of a job and the micro switches are not available on their own before you ask.

Ah, ok I will have to have a look round for one then. Evidently there is an RS component micro switch which is identical# for under £2.00.
Gaz

Gaz5535 · Jan 17, 2015

Ah, ok I will have to have a look round for one then. Evidently there is an RS component micro switch which is identical# for under £2.00.Gaz

Gaz5535 · Jan 18, 2015

pwood999 said:
look for MGF door locks, and compare the pictures to P38 locks (much cheaper). Make sure you get the right type with three microswitches. The motors & microswitches will fit inside the P38 lock mechanism if you want to refurb yours.

If you feel really creative you can also disable the super lock so you never get that problem.

Edit: see this http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/3180154-post12.html

Ah, right, now you have given me food for thought! So is it the 'motor' that is burnt out or the micro swithces that need replacing?

Gaz5535 · Jan 18, 2015

Ok, I have just bought an O/S MGF (drivers door) lock off ebay for £17.00 including postage! So let's hope it fits when it turns up, I will report back when fitted.
Gaz

pwood999 · Jan 18, 2015

Take P38 lock out first.
Then compare both on bench side by side.
If wire colours don't match write down the differences to make re-wiring easier.
Open the locks up & check for broken plastic bits, etc.
Connect continuity tester to microswitches & check manual operation.
Check motors using 9V battery . . if you're careful you can operate the locks on the bench without all the bits popping out.

Then . . . rebuild yourself a good working lock using the bits . . easy.

Gaz5535 · Jan 18, 2015

pwood999 said:
Take P38 lock out first.
Then compare both on bench side by side.
If wire colours don't match write down the differences to make re-wiring easier.
Open the locks up & check for broken plastic bits, etc.
Connect continuity tester to microswitches & check manual operation.
Check motors using 9V battery . . if you're careful you can operate the locks on the bench without all the bits popping out.

Then . . . rebuild yourself a good working lock using the bits . . easy.

Thanks P, I am well armed with information, lets see what turns up in the post.

Gaz5535 · Jan 24, 2015

Well just reporting back to all of you that gelled with nailing the door lock problem. I fitted the lock this afternoon, & guess what it works like a dream! I might even tear the old one apart and see if it can be fixed.
Gaz

Grrrrrr · Jan 25, 2015

Sorry if this was already mentioned but check your RF receiver is the right unit. Should have 2 boards at right-angles inside. Mozz put a picture up somewhere with the part-code. Wrong one can lead to burnt out lock motors.

Door locking problems

Gaz5535

Active Member

scstp

Member

Datatek

Well-Known Member

Gaz5535

Active Member

Gaz5535

Active Member

Gaz5535

Active Member

Datatek

Well-Known Member

dashwoodlandy

Member

Gaz5535

Active Member

tomcat59alan

Well-Known Member

pwood999

Well-Known Member

Gaz5535

Active Member

Gaz5535

Active Member

Gaz5535

Active Member

Gaz5535

Active Member

pwood999

Well-Known Member

Gaz5535

Active Member

Gaz5535

Active Member

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

Similar threads