DIY Job or Not? Rear crank seal replacement

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Matt11

Member
Posts
38
Location
West Yorkshire
I think my rear crank seal has gone.

I have oil all over the gearbox housing, from where the wading plug fits and also dripping from the front edge of the sump. It's black oil so assuming its engine oil. It isn't too bad but it does seem to be getting a bit worse it its a nuisance more than anything.

I just wondered, is this a job I could do at home, bearing in mind that this will have to be done on my drive with axle stands, a few jacks etc and without a fancy 4 post lift? Is it something that can be done or is it best to get it done at a garage?

I've been quoted £250-300 to have it done but would prefer to have a go at doing it myself.

One garage said that changing it might not help as "if the engines damaged, it'll force oil out of it again or somewhere else". What could he mean? What damage would cause it to do that?

All advice appreciated.
 
After doing mine on a 200tdi and replacing the gasket between the block and flywheel housing also which will give the same symptom i think id be happy to pay 250 to let some other person do it, advise a clutch while yer in there too seeing as it all has to come out anyway.
 
After doing mine on a 200tdi and replacing the gasket between the block and flywheel housing also which will give the same symptom i think id be happy to pay 250 to let some other person do it, advise a clutch while yer in there too seeing as it all has to come out anyway.

That's what i was thinking to be fair. Just fancied having a crack at it if it was straightforward enough. I don't think there is a gasket on the 300tdi but wouldn't be the first time i was wrong!
 
Its not complicated , just a lot to do for a wee little seal, if you do it yourself make sure you get a genuine seal too mate as its alot to do to find out a cheap seal has failed.
 
I've always taken the gearbox out but there's not a lot in it either way.

As others have said it's straight forwards but laborious. Pressing the seal in square without twisting the fooker can be tricky by hand on yer knees in the driveway but doable.

+1 on the clutch and release bearing and check the clutch arm carefully at the pivot and slave rod dimple while yer there.
 
any ideas what the guy meant about engine damage causing oil to be forced out? Kind of got me worrying in case the seal is changed and its still leaking.
 
I presume he means crankcase pressure build up, worn rings or blocked galleries, you would see evidence from oil filler i should think first though. Cap blowing off or oil seeping past it, breathing and chugging heavily when the caps off.
 
I presume he means crankcase pressure build up, worn rings or blocked galleries, you would see evidence from oil filler i should think first though. Cap blowing off or oil seeping past it, breathing and chugging heavily when the caps off.

What's the best way of checking for the above? What would i expect to see at the oil filter? what's the "cap"? Pretty new to all this so i generally need things in laymen's terms :)
 
ok. Stupid question but now i know!! :oops:

Over pressurisation tends to push oil out of the top of the engine wherever it can, dipstick, filler cap, cyclone breather.

Tdis are heavy breathers anyway but if you think this might be a problem the first thing is to check the breather is clear because that might be all it is.

If main bearing are on their way youll hear knocking on cold start up.

How bad is the crank seal leak? Most Landies like to leave a mark
 
It's not too bad to be honest but i do think its got slightly worse the last week or so. I leave it in the train station car park all day and there will be a 4cm diameter oil stain when i get back. Its more of a nuisance than anything and the wife goes nuts about the state of our block paved drive! :)
well theres no sign of any oil being pushed out of the cap or the filter, there is however oil leaking from the hose that goes to the radiator. I've just got a new rad today and am going to change all the oil and coolant hoses to it when i get around to ordering them. I think the leak is just because the hose is old and cracked near where it meets the pipe which fits to the rad.
 
Back
Top