Discovery Rust - Boot, Sills and Wings

auf_wiedersehen_pet · Nov 25, 2012

GreenHornet said:
What I really want to do is this

And I need some ideas for the front. I am basing them around a 3 link system and a slit radius arm affair.

I'd thought about using these.

Landrover off roading cranked double rose joint arms defender 90110 | eBay

Paul D · Nov 25, 2012

GreenHornet said:
Pit was a bit embarrassing as I am normally quite good at keeping on top of maintenance. It won't happen again. After a couple of off road water sessions it's work £10 for some oil and replace both axles and transfer box fluids.

Heh, like I said, 'happens to us all' .. and is why I rarely have trouble now. I also keep an amount of diff/gearbox oils to hand to change them regularly now .. I like wading ..

GreenHornet said:
It never ends.

Ho no no no no no ...

GreenHornet · Nov 25, 2012

auf_wiedersehen_pet said:
I'd thought about using these.

Landrover off roading cranked double rose joint arms defender 90110 | eBay

hanks for this - but £210 isn't really the Hornet way

half the fun is making the stuff and getting it to work, besides I'm broke

big si · Nov 25, 2012

GreenHornet said:
hanks for this - but £210 isn't really the Hornet way half the fun is making the stuff and getting it to work, besides I'm broke

you could make them yerself for about 40 quid if you can find som suitable rose joints mate.i do like the look of em though

GreenHornet · Nov 25, 2012

big si said:
you could make them yerself for about 40 quid if you can find som suitable rose joints mate.i do like the look of em though

Yeah I have been researching jonny joints which are imported from America (land of the original debt for which the whole world can be thankful).

As usual I can't decide what I want to do to achieve my ultimate goal of the elusive front axle articulation

discomark10 · Nov 25, 2012

GreenHornet said:
Yeah I have been researching jonny joints which are imported from America (land of the original debt for which the whole world can be thankful).

As usual I can't decide what I want to do to achieve my ultimate goal of the elusive front axle articulation

The 3 link system is defo worth doing, its on my to-do list, ive got a few bookmarks saved at home for some decent rose joints if your going to make the rears

GreenHornet · Nov 25, 2012

discomark10 said:
The 3 link system is defo worth doing, its on my to-do list, ive got a few bookmarks saved at home for some decent rose joints if your going to make the rears

That would be great....... say how is your tray back doing?

Three link system would be nice, however I have heard that you can modify the exhaust and fit in the rear axle set up with a frame

tombardier · Nov 25, 2012

Changed my diff oil today after doing some dep wading the other day. The disco did the job when I needed it too, but the oil I dropped today had the same muddy 'orrible look as yours did! I'll give it another change in a week or two

the carpets got wet too and whilst removing them to dry them out I found the first onsets of rot in the o/s sill + foot well. It's a jap import so it's not too bad in general, so I'm glad I've found it before it gets too bad! :

GreenHornet · Nov 25, 2012

I am going to leave my oil for another week and then drop it again. However I feel the front diff is going to need attention. After the rear one and then the oils in the boxes being changed, the front diff is the only sound being made in an otherwise quiet motor - aside the engine rattling as they do - oh and the rumbling of the tyres..........

I have no carpets at all in mine. The insulation and sound deadening sucks up and hold way like you wouldn't believe. Also comes in handy when the water reaches the centre console and then starts poring in the heater vents lol. Arr the good old days

waldershelf · Nov 25, 2012

Welcome back

we've missed the updates on the green hornet. you have a real talent for the improvisation and fabrication approach to Land Rover mod's. An inspiration to us all, well those of us who run old bangers with no money anyway.

discomark10 · Nov 25, 2012

GreenHornet said:
That would be great....... say how is your tray back doing?

Three link system would be nice, however I have heard that you can modify the exhaust and fit in the rear axle set up with a frame

only found 1 link, think the other was on my old phone..
www.mcgillmotorsports.co.uk (Powered by CubeCart)
i would also like to suggest something like this to make them last longer as rose joints don't last as long as other sealed types of joints due to crud wearing them out..
Rod End Dust Protection Boots - Rose Joint RACE RALLY | eBay

My trayback is coming on, almost done. I got the engine out atm rebuilding it, got a thread going of course

GreenHornet · Nov 26, 2012

Glad to hear its almost done. Will check the thread in a moment. Regarding the engine, I had a nice surprise with mine having the Zeus gear conversion.

I will look into the site further but initially the prices look very reasonable. Keep you posted.

GreenHornet · Nov 26, 2012

So today I decided that the tree sliders would be done. The weather was looking good so out came the steel and the grinder.

To make the sliders I have chosen 60.3mm Dia tube 3mm thick. It is a l to bigger than what you normally see, like I say t the wife lol, but then again the Hornet is also a bit of a beast so can pull it off. Oh more innuendo...

I have seen the ordinary tree sliders but they look quite small and weedy. I know that they aren't, and in fact the larger diameter tube may be weaker but here is the method in my madness.

Impact is either transferred or absorbed.

If it is transferred it will eventually break the weakest link in the chain. Attach a strong tree slider to a rusty chassis and bang, you have dents and twists in the chassis. Attach a strong slider to weak mounts and you have deformed sliders that have bent upwards on their mounts and you can't open the door.

Alternatively I have gone for an option that will resist the standard abuse, but when hit hard, should deform and therefore not pass on the force of the impact to the chassis. Therefore they are to some extent sacrificial.

Firstly I started with the positioning.

As you can see. The door has already taken a beating for a tree. Should have done this job sooner. The other side is worse!!

Trying to keep the items inboard enough and high enough to be effective but not reduce clearance too much.

Then I cut the mounts and these were seam welded straight onto the main tube.

I then notched the mounts to sit on the underside of the reinforced RHS sills. Unfortunately that's as far as I got as the rain started again!

More to come as soon as I can get out there and finish them.

Paulmitchell1984 · Nov 26, 2012

looking good, are you welding these to the sills? iv just replaced my sills and didnt think on putting sliders on defre hand and been looking at diifferent ideas on how t mount, id wanted them to be removable incase i swapped the car but thinking this could be the better alternative...although its much bigger tubing it suite the car

discomark10 · Nov 26, 2012

What did you use to cut the ends of the tube?

GreenHornet · Nov 26, 2012

Well today the weather was OK and as I was in a right arsey mood I took myself off and worked on the sliders some more.

I am welding these directly to my RHS sills. I want them to be strong and have no mounts that can be in danger of failing.

As for the cutting of the tube, I am quite deft at using a cutting disc to create various shapes and then even better at filling gaps with the welder lol. It is really important to get a nice tight fit - ooh err - between the flanges - oh my.

This makes it really easy to weld nice and neatly.

First up I finished off the nearside sill to match the already completed offside. Once done, I used the axles stands to hold the sliders in place before welding them to the outer edge of the sill.

The mounts are notched, therefore the mounts can be welded to the outside AND underside of the RHS sills. Unfortunately I had trouble with the feed on my welder so I will have to borrow a friends beofre I can finish them off. However I think they dont look too bad and sort of go with the MAD MAX theme of the vehicle lol.

My plan is to probably put rubber bungs in the ends once they are trimmed to suit and then I can take them out to clean the inside, however I am wondering if they will suit as side pipes for the exhaust - ummmm

The dog was another project I completed earlier lol -

discomark10 · Nov 26, 2012

looking good fella, nice design on the attachment. I used a 50mm bosh bi metal hole saw on the scaffolding for my roll cage, gives very good fit!, but only works for 90 degree joints, the others I have to do as you have done... can be a pain lol

Oh and I still cant belive you haven't painted that panel yet! lol

The feed on the mig could be down to the tube that the wire goes down, I had that issue, had to trim the length a bit, also is that stainless wire?

How much lift has the dog got?

GreenHornet · Nov 26, 2012

Cheers buddy.

Its not as neat or as fancy as I would want but I am limited to a small garage and no tools to speak of.

Its not stainless wire and you're right I may have to check the tube.

Dog benefits from 9" clearance, 4 wheel drive AND 4 wheel steer plus the air intake is adjustable for wading. Must run on some dodgy stuff though as the fumes are awful lol

NOT LIKING THE OVERHANG ON THE REAR BUMPER NOW :-(

RobP · Nov 26, 2012

Really like the front bumper and sliders, excellent fabrication skills but not so keen on the rear bumper now I have seen the side profile

Matt Baxter · Nov 26, 2012

yep the rear bumper needs sucking in to the body mate, I reckon do what we did with marks as in chop the rear of the chassis back to the body line

and bolt the bumper as per the front bumper, reckon it would suck it in by 6"

Discovery Rust - Boot, Sills and Wings

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Old, nackered 'n broke, but the Landy is fine . :)

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