Discovery Rust - Boot, Sills and Wings

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Mr Noisy said:
Tell them to watch out if they're out on the road in the next few months!!! :D
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I hope they are not the neighbours that I have been falling out with :D

Oi Mr Noisy, I have you know that I am a considerate driver - Made as a hatter on my bike but considerate none the.........No hang on a minute, thats right I'm bonkers lol
 
Started the winch bumper design last night. (Photos will come as and when I have enough for a descent post).

I plan to have the mounting plates go all the way back to the front turret mounts. There are four bolts there which are taken up by the steering box on the offside and are free on the nearside.

Question is.... If I use longer bolts for the steering box mount, is there going to be any hassles that I will encounter. The box will still stay in the same geometry as it is now but I fancy taking advantage of these mounts too.

I plan on utilising the corners of the bumper as mounts for the front section of the external cage so it needs to be strong. As for the winch - well there is only one really isnt there. A Warn 8274 - I am searching as we speak to try and pick up one that needs some reconditioning. Dont tell her in doors how much shhh....
 
Kin ell Ian you are thinking on the same lines as me regards the 8274. I have tried many a time to buy a knackered one but they sell for crazy money, 400 quid usually for one that has problems. And then I bet youll put 200 quid in parts into it, not mentioning that it's guaranteed you'll end up buying an air freespool drum and upgrading to albright solenoid etc etc etc. So you're looking at £1000 probably.

I just can't justify that kind of winch money when I already have one that works now I rebuilt it (and welded the worn away internals!)

Manufacturing a Disco bumper to take 8274 is good idea though cos there isnt currently one available off the shelf.

Gotta say though mate that bumper mounts on the standard 4 bolts and then clamp-round braces as far back as the front of the steering box is plenty, don't think it's necessary to add extra weight for the sake of it!
 
dyte said:
Why not if he mounts his bumper that far back it will be super strong, its not like the whole weight of the car will rest in this area if he rolls it where would you mount the cage like?
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well i was just thinking a bumper has its strength from front end impact or pulling, where as if u were to mount the roll cage to it, it would be causing loads of leverage on the mounting bolt holes - probably why its not usually done, but i agree about having long mounts, just need a good area to spread the weight over as it wont b welded like most roll cage mounts. It might b worth reinforcing the original bolt holes with a tubular sheaf welded in (like where the rear shackles attach under the chassis.
 
The cage is going to be a good discussion point as it will challenge both convention and many mechanical and engineering principles I'm sure.

With regards to the front bumper.

First off I need to make a decision as to how far forward the winch will be mounted. I want the winch to clear the front of the grill ideally, as this way it won't be too snug against the radiator and leaves an area behind for what ever comes later on. I will start with a ready made winch mount and go from there.

With regards to the external cage mounting to the bumper. The main mount is the outrigger just in front of the front doors. This will also be boxed and be the mount for the internal cage. Yes there will be two. The internal will be to protect people and the external will be to help protect the body. After all I have put a lot of time and effort into the car so don't want to have it beaten to crap for the sake of a bit of extra work.

The front mount to the bumper is just to take the wing cage section. These will go snug over the arches that have just been fitted.

I thought that by extending the bumper mounts back as far as possible I could reduce the amount of leverage that is exerted on them from vertical forces at the edge of the bumper.

I also plan to have the steering guard extend upward and to the side to underneath the headlights. This will help, using triangulation, to reduce the twisting forces too.

This bumper is going to be well thought through as I want it to be as strong as possible whilst also looking unobtrusive. Well as much as possible on a lifted and off road prepped Disco lol.
 
Fair point regards two cages ian but an external cage will be plenty strong enough if done proper. Especially if you cross the centre hoop though the body for strength.

Definitely no need for a double cage.

Take it from me, weight is your biggest enemy off road and a disco has plenty already :(
 
i agree with mr noisy , dont go overboard. also i havent seen a decent looking cage on a disco yet , they all look like a after thought. whats your views ?? wow 100 posts.
 
They are a lot of afterthought cages!

Safety devices (I think) make a very nice one for the D2.

I think the skill is to make it follow the body/roof lines carefully in order to get the best aesthetics. Also 3dr cages can look a bit odd whereas a 5 door has to follow the rear door line so it kinda fits better.

Not sure.

Good roof cage, front hoop, rear hoop and centre cross through the body, wing bars and windscreen bar should cover it.

Design it well and itll be strong and a good looker :)
 
Ian I would think twice about an internal cage if it was for a race car competition vehicle fine as you will be wearing a lid but the last thing you want to be doing is banging yer head against the cage.
So imo an external cage will be more than enough, A mate of mine works for a company called Xsport over in Basingstoke they build some very nice cages for race cars and im sure you could get some ideas from them!!
 
Mr Noisy said:
Fair point regards two cages ian but an external cage will be plenty strong enough if done proper. Especially if you cross the centre hoop though the body for strength.

Definitely no need for a double cage.

Take it from me, weight is your biggest enemy off road and a disco has plenty already :(
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Yeah I understand what you're saying and agree that weight needs to be kept to a minimum.
 
Matt Baxter said:
Ian I would think twice about an internal cage if it was for a race car competition vehicle fine as you will be wearing a lid but the last thing you want to be doing is banging yer head against the cage.
So imo an external cage will be more than enough, A mate of mine works for a company called Xsport over in Basingstoke they build some very nice cages for race cars and im sure you could get some ideas from them!!
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I think in retrospect everyone is right. An external cage done right and sympathetically to the body will be fine. When I get a bit further forward with my ideas, I would love to spend some time chatting it through with them. This should be fun....
 
Mr Noisy said:
Fair point regards two cages ian but an external cage will be plenty strong enough if done proper. Especially if you cross the centre hoop though the body for strength.

Definitely no need for a double cage.

Take it from me, weight is your biggest enemy off road and a disco has plenty already :(
Click to expand...

Centre hoop through the body is tricky as its three door. Will have to tuck it closely to the back of the front seats
 
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