Discovery 3 Engine re-build

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Thanks mate just tidying and finding all tools now Lol yes looking forward and as usual a little nervous but looking good

So nice being able to see the floor again 🤣

Funny enough got some spanner, plier organisers for my tool box which made life easier finding things

Just got to remember to put things back in the right place 🤣🤣

Must say though I wouldnt have a fraction of my tools if it wasn’t for my pops , think I’ve got a plier addiction, lol

Sorry if you’ve already seen some of the pictures
 

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Where did you get dentist pick from mate been looking for some to remove broken pin from a plug, did get a bargain though car boot set of king dick combination as new for a tenner and two hammers for £7
 

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Where did you get dentist pick from mate been looking for some to remove broken pin from a plug, did get a bargain though car boot set of king dick combination as new for a tenner and two hammers for £7

Here u go mate , pretty sure I got them here and indeed very useful for electrical connectors as well , got the set

Awesome mate and indeed am terrible at boot fares 🤣

 
Hi all engine back in today, all went quite well, sump back on, been a bit distracted as bought another D4 originally for someone else, but they were looking for lower mileage and no engine issues, but missis has put her name on this and has offered a trade in Lol
As usual doesn't run properly idles but needs r/h turbo and drain modification
Working on D3 for next few days as can't get wheel off until locking key arrives
 

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Hi all engine back in today, all went quite well, sump back on, been a bit distracted as bought another D4 originally for someone else, but they were looking for lower mileage and no engine issues, but missis has put her name on this and has offered a trade in Lol
As usual doesn't run properly idles but needs r/h turbo and drain modification
Working on D3 for next few days as can't get wheel off until locking key arrives
Cracking work going on there 👏
 
Thanks mate, Hi all poured all day so got on up top took lifting frame off fitted egr cross over pipe, then wiring plugs. Started on pipework will drop radiator and intercooler then finally start routing pipes can never remember trial and error will move underneath when it stops raining as sticks out of workshop, comes together quite quickly though, but other things keep getting in way like work
 

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Started fiddling with D4 today @Graculus sorry to bother you mate, may I ask you for some advice but did it again bought another 2013 D4 sdv6, wallet now left home, story is as far as have been told, pinging sound lost power limped home, local JLR specialist looked at it unplugged maf sensors and it idles, diagnosis turbo, was demonstrated to me running, started to vacuum test lines today, had many codes but only two relating to turbo were p22D3-77 and p22cf-71 others were because of flat battery no codes for maf sensors until I unplugged them
Any pointers or advice most appreciated before parts cannon is fired many thanks
 

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Check the harness to the turbo for oil ingress - also check the turbo shutoff valve & vac solenoid / pipework, those codes are known to appear in tandem when the shutoff valve is not operating correctly, if at all....
Sorry for the late reply, being fighting with B48 'valvetronic' springs without the benefit of the correct special tool... to be honest, I'd rather be re-sealing a 3.0l sump!

Edit: also check the vac lines to the engine mounts (and the engine mounts) these can leak and reduce the vacuum available in the system to the point where the turbo shutoff valve doesn't fully operate - causing the DTC's you mention
 
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Many thanks for you reply mate seeing you had to work late much appreciated
Will go over vacuum pipes and wiring as you suggested didn't realize the engine mounts came into the equation thanks for that assuming they should hold vacuum?
Was planning on switching solenoids just because I have some (couldn't be that lucky) will rerun diagnostics going to remove heatsheilds and check out vacuum pipes, actuator etc solenoid to bypass valve I think is called holds vacuum and clicks shut when released only real test so far
Many thanks will look over points you made first
I know I'm needing a smoke machine really p.s sure I'll have more questions Lol all the best mate
 
No worries! in common with most manufacturers, the vac. solenoids are usually the weak point, JLR use Pierburg, in common with VWG, who have just as many issues.... IIRC, at idle, you'll have no vac. on the line to the turbo shutoff valve for ~90 seconds, you should then hear the engine note change as it opens up to draw any oil residue out. There is a position sensor on the valve which provides closed-loop feedback to the ECM. The shutoff valve is quite vac.-hungry so any leaks will diminish it's movement range. I usually find a vac. gauge on the common vac line and a pair of long nose pliers to shut off the vac. to each component or solenoid whilst watching for changes in the 'depth' of vacuum to be a quick way of isolating areas of interest.
The engine mounts should hold vac. but I've known the vac. lines to suffer due to oil leaking onto them and let air in at the joints.
Good luck - hopefully it'll be a bit of vac. line or a solenoid!

Be careful with a smoke tester on vac., putting pressure into a system that's designed for the opposite can break stuff....
 
Thanks mate for your advice, will work through it over the next few days weather permitting
Yes am hoping for something simple for a change, Will be cautious with vacuum system all the best hope you have a shorter day
 
Once again thanks for you response to my issues, removed the two solenoids this morning the two that come from the charge solenoid and run over the top of motor and disappear down the back, well one is holding vacuum the other not, well for about a second, about to remove heat shields and have a look other end, quite a bit of oil residue in intercooler pipework too, work this evening, my turn tonight, will see what I can find until then, still hoping for simple fix Lol
 

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Blimy removed heat shields and wheel liner, turbo hemorrhaging oil from exhaust, outlet, and in the centre, guessing it's done charging, plan b remove, front pipe, egr, and top arm, and probably other things replace turbo, check vacuum pipes and connectors there is a leak somewhere too will be easier to trace and at least I'll know in future where they all go, will plug and test all lines
Might replace egr solenoid while I'm there as Also need to replace that side rocker cover due to a small crack, does this seem like a plan? Do it all together many thanks mate
 

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That's been ignored for some time! Likely the VAC leak is a pipe that's been softened by all the hot oil - I had an engine mount on a L405 that had a vac leak due to the turbo drain gasket weeping oil into it for some time... I'd do as you're proposing, strip it all out, assess the parts requirements and rebuild in one go, it'll be easier, quicker and less 'steps back' that way.
 
Thanks mate yes your right, don't think it was checked mechanically much , have to shuffle motors around before removing top arm running out of space, thanks for confirming will do all at once turbos, clean and check vacuum system, replace rocker cover many thanks for you advice and time, all the best mate
 
I've got a mate 'in the trade' in Kings Lynn I'm overdue a visit to - might have to come and see your collection next time I'm over that way!
 
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