Disco Tray back build

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Mr Noisy said:
Well mark, I must admit I've reached a point with my disco where the major work is done and with moving into a new home etc it has taken a huge back seat and probably will not see much more than a new set of tyres getting put on it in the near future, wot have the time or money for major work, i will be glad just to have it to use as it is.

However, once you have sorted this front axle swap and you can tell me exactly what's involved I will be very very grateful for a chat about how to do it.

If I could get an axle, get all the bits, and then sort the job over a weekend I would tackle it, those swivel balls are utter ****e!
Click to expand...

Well I can tell you now the main differences, its a few inches wider, the wheels are a smaller pcd and the radius arms are about twice the size with different mounts.
I believe that's about all that will effect swap wise.

You can but new radius arm mounts for either axle end to use old style arms or chassis end to use new style.

The only thing I haven't sussed is if I need to get a d2 rear to match the width
 
Got my rad pipe joins.
I tried making my own.. turned out ok, but the ones with an angle didn't.. the ali solder wouldn't create a good seal! it was plenty strong enough mind.
 
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Well.. had it running today to brake the cam in, few min in it got a bit to hot and spat water at me!
Cap wasn't done up and the fans didn't come on, turns out when I had the rad off today to finish the plumbing it, I left the earth off! Doh! :doh:

Didn't overheat, I was keeping an eye on the gauge. And there was no leaks.. which is great news!

So anyway I put the earth back on and did the cap up... it ran well, nice n smooth.
Bit of a blow from the centre exhaust join, but that's nothing major.
 
Oh.. got a question for the v8 guys... if I fit a non cat downpipe and y piece, will it run ok or do I need to do somthing with say the lambdas?
 
discomark10 said:
Oh.. got a question for the v8 guys... if I fit a non cat downpipe and y piece, will it run ok or do I need to do somthing with say the lambdas?
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You will either need to weld on lambda bosses to the non cat down pipes as they don't have them or change the tune resistor to the non cat tune

Standard cat tune resistor (white) is 3900ohms and non cat tune (green) is 470 ohms. I just picked up a 1 watt 470ohm resistor (about 30p from Maplins) when I swapped my cat pipes for non cat
 
RobP said:
You will either need to weld on lambda bosses to the non cat down pipes as they don't have them or change the tune resistor to the non cat tune

Standard cat tune resistor (white) is 3900ohms and non cat tune (green) is 470 ohms. I just picked up a 1 watt 470ohm resistor (about 30p from Maplins) when I swapped my cat pipes for non cat
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Kool sounds good! Did you notice any performance difference?
 
Good advice rob :)

It should in theory make stronger top end and also lean out more on cruise seeing as it doesn't need to try to stick to 14.7 all the time.

Well worth running non cat tune, cos that's the way the engines like it.
 
discomark10 said:
so with the tune resister you ditch the lambdas?
Click to expand...

Worked for me as the lambdas were stuck in the downpipes that I took off.

Just unplugged them near the top of the bulkhead when I took off the cat downpipe and changed the resistor.

Bit hard to say performance wise as at least one if not both of my lambdas where knackered and the cats were rattling about too.
 
200tdi ayre said:
Pictures :D
Click to expand...

1st outingnin a couple year's!
20130805_154817_zpscbe02b28.jpg
 
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Cracking job pal!

What were your CO and HC results?

Im just trying to get an idea of how mine is rudding, it idles around 13.5:1 AFR which is about 0.92 Lambda.

super well done for getting finished, nearly :p
 
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