Defender TD5 Wastegate adjustment

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Put the T where? cos if it was on the pipe which comes from the intercooler to the wastegate valve at that pressure the valve should be fully opened...i dont want to re-read the whole thread to see if it was asked or not...is the EGR properly bypassed?
 
Between the intercooler and turbo yes. The egr is completely blanked off and removed

It may be that the waste gate is only opening partially as it's difficult to see I can only see it moves
 
if you get 23psi on that pipe it means that the turbo is working and the leak is between the intercooler and the MAP sensor or a leak within the wastegate valve, next time you make measurements clamp that pipe after the gauge, as i said at that pressure the rod should be pushed forward ... or if the MAP is 100% ruled out it can be a wiring issue on it's circuit, isnt the hole where the sensor goes in full with gunk?

let's hope that your gauge is not reading higher than the reality
 
It's clean! To be honest I'm losing the will to live with it. I'm hping it's a problem with the wastegate as we can't see a problem anywhere else
 
I did consider just replacing the inlet manifold gasket anyway but it's such a bitch to get off we just sprayed it (and everything else) with soapy water and couldn't see any leaks anywhere.
 
Really? I pulled mine off in less than 30 mins! Its actually surprisingly easy, though I can't imagine you'd be able to see the bottom of the inlet by doing that. It would be worth doing to clean out the gunk in the inlet and replace the gasket anyway imo.

This does sound like a very unusual problem! Would be able to do a run down of what you have tried and the result/symptom so far? Make it easier for the rest of us to try and diagnose your issue :)

I'd like to find out for myself in case it ever happens to me! One thing I would say for sure is 23psi is very high. Standard should be 13/14psi, ~18psi before "limp mode" kicks in and 22psi before you hit lag. (from personal research/testing over the years)
 
Not sure you would tbh especially if its at the bottom. Thats true but again surprisingly easy to access! Plus the bolts arent super tight in there like the exhaust manifold. I think all I used was a deep socket and an extension.

Drop the fuel cooler (but leave it connected), unbolt the oil cooler pipe at the bottom, unplug the glow plug cables and disconnect the dipstick. Then start undoing the inlet bolts. Shortly after it'll be off.

I was expecting it to take me half a day, got cracking at around 10am it was off around 10:30 I was shocked haha
 
bankz5152 said:
Not sure you would tbh especially if its at the bottom. Thats true but again surprisingly easy to access! Plus the bolts arent super tight in there like the exhaust manifold. I think all I used was a deep socket and an extension.

Drop the fuel cooler (but leave it connected), unbolt the oil cooler pipe at the bottom, unplug the glow plug cables and disconnect the dipstick. Then start undoing the inlet bolts. Shortly after it'll be off.

I was expecting it to take me half a day, got cracking at around 10am it was off around 10:30 I was shocked haha
Click to expand...
Cheers it's not going anywhere in a hurry and I do have a gasket so might as well give it a go
 
Indeed, get some Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner as well, fill it up and let it soak for 30 mins, then jet wash it to hell.

Gives you a chance to check everything around that area as well.
 
hahaha I know the feeling! Though im sure you'll solve it! Tell ya if you havnt got it solved by the 13th of November I'll come and have a look see if I can help at all! As I'll be heading up that way that day
 
bankz5152 said:
hahaha I know the feeling! Though im sure you'll solve it! Tell ya if you havnt got it solved by the 13th of November I'll come and have a look see if I can help at all! As I'll be heading up that way that day
Click to expand...

If it's still ongoing then just bring a can of petrol and we'll go to the pub!
 
I took my turbo in to a place at Northampton yesterday and they have identified the following:

  • Centre Housing Rotating Assembly has worn journal bearings & worn thrust bearing
  • Worn bush in wastegate
  • Carbon build up
  • Fine foreign object damage to compressor wheel

The repairs worked out the same as a new turbo, so I now have a new turbo. Will still need to leak test the inlet manifold to rule it out.

APC_1014.jpg
 
Last edited:
Did a leak test today with a smoke machine I know it's not ideal but couldn't see any leaks so turbo on over the weekend and see how it goes.
 
Just a thought, but seeing as I have newer (15p) loom than I should have could this affect the throttle signals? I am wondering if it's expecting a 3-track signal or something ? Not sure how I would check
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

E
Turbo Wastegate Percentage %
2
Replies
26
Views
3K
sierrafery
sierrafery
Sieklo
Disco 2 D2 TD5 Auto high fuel consumption
Replies
8
Views
722
sierrafery
sierrafery
Gothicsera
Discovery 2 TD5 Lack of Power
2 3
Replies
47
Views
8K
Gothicsera
Gothicsera
T
td5 engine power loss
Replies
9
Views
1K
Brown
Brown
J
engine cuts out at high revs, eml on td5
Replies
3
Views
628
tom1979
tom1979
Back
Top