Defender TD5 Wastegate adjustment

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tom1979

tom1979

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Adjusted (and replaced) my wastegate actuator yesterday as I was getting a lot of black smoke and although the black smoke has reduced significantly the manifold pressure increases to and maxes out at 173.6 kPa (according to Lynx). I've worked this out to be about 25psi - is this a bit high for a TD5 Defender?
 
tom1979 said:
Adjusted (and replaced) my wastegate actuator yesterday as I was getting a lot of black smoke and although the black smoke has reduced significantly the manifold pressure increases to and maxes out at 173.6 kPa (according to Lynx). I've worked this out to be about 25psi - is this a bit high for a TD5 Defender?
Click to expand...

What does it show for manifold pressure at idle?

Cheers
 
If everything is OK the MAP(manifold absolute pressure) should get to 210KPa(30psi) under max load on a defender, you might have a leak after the turbo or worn turbo, read the MAF(air flow) too, it should get to around 600 when the MAP is at max reading, if the MAF is high and the MAP low it's deffinitely a boost issue, if both are low it's fuelling issue or a restriction in the intake or exhaust, can't you record live data with linx? the normal wastegate rod setting is as to be 13 threads left out from the locknut, if you want increased boost better use a manual controller like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220537042109 rather than shorten the rod cos it's more efficient and avoids boost creep

btw the EGR i still on? if yest that's one of the suspects as well
 
Last edited:
Stock boost pressure on a Defender is 15PSI. I have tweaked mine to give just a bit less than 20. Anything more risks
overboost and limp mode for a stock ECU / MAP.
 
mikegsxr said:
Stock boost pressure on a Defender is 15PSI. I have tweaked mine to give just a bit less than 20. Anything more risks
overboost and limp mode for a stock ECU / MAP.
Click to expand...
I agree, i converted the MAP to psi as the OP did the same, i didnt speak about boost pressure, positive boost pressure is like you say (almost, cos stock should be 15.95 psi)
 
tom1979 said:
Adjusted (and replaced) my wastegate actuator yesterday as I was getting a lot of black smoke and although the black smoke has reduced significantly the manifold pressure increases to and maxes out at 173.6 kPa (according to Lynx). I've worked this out to be about 25psi - is this a bit high for a TD5 Defender?
Click to expand...
have you had a mechanical boost gauge this may be different
173 KPA does equal near enough to 25 psi
but if you use the calculator on relative to vacuum your readings will be different your only have just over 10 psi

https://www.convertunits.com/from/kPa/to/PSI
 
sierrafery said:
If everything is OK the MAP(manifold absolute pressure) should get to 210KPa(30psi) under max load on a defender, you might have a leak after the turbo or worn turbo, read the MAF(air flow) too, it should get to around 600 when the MAP is at max reading, if the MAF is high and the MAP low it's deffinitely a boost issue, if both are low it's fuelling issue or a restriction in the intake or exhaust, can't you record live data with linx? the normal wastegate rod setting is as to be 13 threads left out from the locknut, if you want increased boost better use a manual controller like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220537042109 rather than shorten the rod cos it's more efficient and avoids boost creep

btw the EGR i still on? if yest that's one of the suspects as well
Click to expand...

EGR is removed and blanked off. Allisport intercooler, remapped (Mastaz switchable type - 160bhp (ish) or max power. Also running disco high ratio gearing.

Can't upload a screenshot of the Lynx readout but this is what it said at 172.6kPa :

Mainfold Pressure : 172.6kPa
Man Pressure Raw : 173.9kPa
Air Flow : 522.5 kg/hour
Engine Speed : 2482 rpm
Vehicle Speed : 36 km/h

Yesterday on a run to Peterborough show ground it did momentarily loose power, little puff of black smoke then immediately back normal. Speed was around 80mph. Did it again once on the way back but no noticeable smoke. Doesn't do it at all at a stand still.

I think really I need to take it somewhere and get it done properly.
 
sierrafery said:
If everything is OK the MAP(manifold absolute pressure) should get to 210KPa(30psi) under max load on a defender, you might have a leak after the turbo or worn turbo, read the MAF(air flow) too, it should get to around 600 when the MAP is at max reading, if the MAF is high and the MAP low it's deffinitely a boost issue, if both are low it's fuelling issue or a restriction in the intake or exhaust, can't you record live data with linx? the normal wastegate rod setting is as to be 13 threads left out from the locknut, if you want increased boost better use a manual controller like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220537042109 rather than shorten the rod cos it's more efficient and avoids boost creep

btw the EGR i still on? if yest that's one of the suspects as well
Click to expand...

+1 on boost controllers/bleed valves. If adjusting the boost higher. I had boost creep on my 110, forge actuator & bleed valve now sits happy at 22psi.
 
bankz5152 said:
+1 on boost controllers/bleed valves. If adjusting the boost higher. I had boost creep on my 110, forge actuator & bleed valve now sits happy at 22psi.
Click to expand...
depending on the quality build of the bleeder some times there is a spring and ball bearing that need to removed in the T piece and then a different setting will be needed depending the preload on the waste gate
 
bankz5152 said:
Tapped into the inlet manifold read by a Stack mechanical gauge.
Click to expand...

I did my own I had the manifold removed and tapped in a fitting at the same time I burnt out all the left over carbon that was clogging the intake ports
I also had issues with boost creep using curtain bleed some times it just a time taking process and learning its characteristics and behaviour
 
I wonder if this is the issue with mine, the turbo was replaced by the previous owner who I assume just bolted the thing on, I am now wondering if mine needs adjusting and setting?
 
Presumably because my ECU has some sort of boost box built into it the temporary loss of power has nothing to do with shortening the wastegate rod ? Wonder if it's collapsing a hose at a certain pressure or something ?
 
tom1979 said:
Presumably because my ECU has some sort of boost box built into it the temporary loss of power has nothing to do with shortening the wastegate rod ? Wonder if it's collapsing a hose at a certain pressure or something ?
Click to expand...
I thought you would have had a few gauges considering the mods

to rule out a collapsing air intake pipe try it with the air filter or remove the intake pipe and test drive .....under bonnet temps can make a hose more softer and you might be right by a hose collapsing but it maybe heat related due to engine load ...also remove all boost hoses and inspect to make sure the inner layer isn't separating
or try removing the boost box to rule out this isn't playing up
 
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