Davies Craig EWP - preliminary results

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Btw my heater blow was actually fine, DD had just squashed the air outlet duct nearly flat with his steel toecaps! Once I straightened it out it was fine :hysterically_laughi.

:doh::doh: always expect the unexpected :)

if it cant push fluid into the rad, what will it pressurise?
 
:doh::doh: always expect the unexpected :)

if it cant push fluid into the rad, what will it pressurise?

The heater matrix circuit :). Because there is more resistance in the radiator circuit, more hot coolant should be forced to flow into the heater matrix.

Also it's good for the whole system, because it means that the pump will have to run faster thanit did before to achieve the same flow rate across the radiator. This will mean better temperature stability as before the pump was on pulse mode 75% of the time which is the bare minimum it can do and it can't vary its speed below that so you get funny results. With this it should be able to find a flow equillibrium more easily as it should always be on run mode using variable speeds to control the flow.

Will.
 
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Gaaah more frustration! We fitted the restrictor just before the radaitor - absolute disaster. The temp was all over the place and no change to the hot air. So we removed it, the temp is more stable again but the heater is still cold apart from an initial burst of hot air. Probably down to convection but the flow rate is not enough for constant heat.

We're now thinking that no hot coolant is circulating into the heater matrix because of a possible result of the venturi effect. So really our last option is a small electric booster pump on the heater circuit, just to make sure the flow is going where it needs to. There are a few on ebay from mercs etc. The obvious way to install it is to plug it into the EWP power so they work in tandem.

Beyond that I don't know what to do outside of rebuilding the entire cooling system. This isn't looking great it has to be said. Any more bright ideas would be appreciated :).

Will.
 
I think yu need to stop. re-assess the situation in the cold light of day. maybe try some clear tubing in a couple of places and watch the flow, or maybe easier, check temperature gradients inn various places. Otherwise you will be chasing your tails, chopping the cooling system to pieces.
have a chat on the mg & lotarse forums (fora) to see if peeps in there have any ideas.
 
I think yu need to stop. re-assess the situation in the cold light of day. maybe try some clear tubing in a couple of places and watch the flow, or maybe easier, check temperature gradients inn various places. Otherwise you will be chasing your tails, chopping the cooling system to pieces.
have a chat on the mg & lotarse forums (fora) to see if peeps in there have any ideas.

Sage advice mate we're thinking the same thing. Luckily you can buy every hose for about £40 if worst comes to worst. Might have a poke around but that fristy weather is coming in fast!!
 
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:D


DD
 
FECK!! ARSE!!

8.jpg


:mad:
 
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Ooooh my woooooord 'ere we ****ing go again!!!

I wish I'd found this before installing it! Seems like everyone who fits them ends up with a naff heater!

My hope was to use one pump on the cooling system but the more I think about it and with the benefit of the thoughts from all of the responders, I think the only way forward for me is to introduce a small supplementary pump just for the heater circuit.
When the Davies Craig main pump runs at full tilt, the flow is staggering but in colder weather, it will not be running so fast and this is likely to impact on the heater flow at the very time when I want the heat in the cockpit.
The supplementary pump will impact on the main pump but the sensor will deal with this by regulating the main cooling flow to match the required temperature range.
I also plan to increase the heater hoses to 19mm where I can to increase the flow through the matrix. I'm pretty sure that the matrix is flowing freely and that there are no air leaks through the casing because it was all refurbished and has only had treated coolant in it since.

AAAAAAAARGH :D!!!
 
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That's why i was waiting to see what happened with yours, sorry Wayne.

It was done with the best intentions.

mine seems to be (touch wood) running fine with just all the necessary normal mods.;)

That's fair mate I knew mine was going to be the community's guinea pig :). You know what's frickin hi-larious? I've seen a few people say "fit the LR remote thermostat and bypass kit" :hysterically_laughi

Makes sense, you'd get much quicker warmups without any real interferrance from the thermostat because any back pressure just gets routed round the bypass. So that's one avenue to explore, I still have the thermo although the hoses are butchered.

However a booster pump seems to be the only method of getting flow round the heater matrix. Now that I know that I can start investigating it.

All this will come together mate, and when it does it'll be the cooling system of doom :).
 
No doubt :)


you're going to fit a secondary pump to circulate through the heater matrix?

Yep looks like. I was just on the dog and bone to MAW solutions where I bought the EWP and they said they'd give me a very nice discount on the EBP 15 pump as I'd already bought the EWP. They say people use them as heater boost pumps all the time and it definitely works. He also thought plumbing the PRT and bypass back in was a good idea to try.

It's looking up eh :)?
 
Yep looks like. I was just on the dog and bone to MAW solutions where I bought the EWP and they said they'd give me a very nice discount on the EBP 15 pump as I'd already bought the EWP. They say people use them as heater boost pumps all the time and it definitely works. He also thought plumbing the PRT and bypass back in was a good idea to try.

It's looking up eh :)?

Worth a try certainly, I hope it all balances out ok and you do not end up pressurising the system too much.
Will the EBP15 compensate for the added flow rate?

and will the EWP work in tandem with another pump?

In any case mine has never been better with the old t/stat removed and PRT fitted. I actually burnt myself on the hot air coming from the dash yesterday morning, and that was after 5 mins driving!
 
Worth a try certainly, I hope it all balances out ok and you do not end up pressurising the system too much.
Will the EBP15 compensate for the added flow rate?

and will the EWP work in tandem with another pump?

In any case mine has never been better with the old t/stat removed and PRT fitted. I actually burnt myself on the hot air coming from the dash yesterday morning, and that was after 5 mins driving!

It would stand to reason that the EBP wouldn't interfere but at this point I'm not making any bets. But it would be stupid to give up after so much money and time - DD's as much as mine.

Do thermostats have variable apertures? It's not either fully on or fully off is it? I was thinking I could get hold of a stat element which opened at a cooler temp than the PRT one, that would give the EWP some breathing room.

However I think that blanking off a portion of a radiator might be simpler than refitting a stat with a similar outcome hopefully.
 
It would stand to reason that the EBP wouldn't interfere but at this point I'm not making any bets. But it would be stupid to give up after so much money and time - DD's as much as mine.

Do thermostats have variable apertures? It's not either fully on or fully off is it? I was thinking I could get hold of a stat element which opened at a cooler temp than the PRT one, that would give the EWP some breathing room.

However I think that blanking off a portion of a radiator might be simpler than refitting a stat with a similar outcome hopefully.

PEM100990 - Cream is 88° With hard Spring (Designed for Diesel and V8 applications)

PEM101020 - Black is 82° With Hard Spring (Designed for a V8 and used as a stopgap with K4 engines)

PEL500110 - Grey is 82° With Light Spring (K4 engines)

blatently nicked from another forum :D
 
PEM100990 - Cream is 88° With hard Spring (Designed for Diesel and V8 applications)

PEM101020 - Black is 82° With Hard Spring (Designed for a V8 and used as a stopgap with K4 engines)

PEL500110 - Grey is 82° With Light Spring (K4 engines)

blatently nicked from another forum :D

Thanks! My head hurts now, I've been half working half researching this all day and I'm frazzled. It's going to be hard to convince folks this is worth doing after all this :(. Oh well.
 
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