Davies Craig EWP - preliminary results

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WLJayne said:
Thanks! My head hurts now, I've been half working half researching this all day and I'm frazzled. It's going to be hard to convince folks this is worth doing after all this :(. Oh well.
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no it wont.

keep the faith.
yu will be able to charge hundreds as a consultant (well DD will ;))
 
WLJayne said:
Thanks! My head hurts now, I've been half working half researching this all day and I'm frazzled. It's going to be hard to convince folks this is worth doing after all this :(. Oh well.
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It would be useful to ascertain flow rates and any potential dead ends to the system, the pressure relief will keep the flow constant regardless of coolant temp.
You need to revise your plumbing rather than buy another pump, use the K.I.S.S method ;)
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
no it wont.

keep the faith.
yu will be able to charge hundreds as a consultant (well DD will ;))
Click to expand...

Yeh there's gotta be some reason why he's putting up with me :D! Can't just be the occasional fish n' chips he gets out of it ;).

Ok ok, here's what I think would happen step by step with the rebuilt system.

- EWP Controller set to a target temp of 85 deg
- Engine started
- EWP Pulses coolant which goes through the stat bypass and back into the block
- Rad outlet temp reaches 82 deg and stat opens fully
- EWP goes into continuous run mode

As long as that sequence doesn't dump a rad full of stone cold water into the engine then I think we might be ok.

If the above might happen then might the exisiting PRT be better suited? It open at 82 deg too right? The stat bypass takes up the space that's currently occupied by the EWP, I may have to remove the coolant rail or at least shorten it significantly. This would mean I could mount it behind the block with plenty of space for re-routed hoses form the heater and expansion tank.

Sounds like a heck of alot of work :(. But I think this is what I should try before shelling out on an EBP.
 
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Freelaner said:
It would be useful to ascertain flow rates and any potential dead ends to the system, the pressure relief will keep the flow constant regardless of coolant temp.
You need to revise your plumbing rather than buy another pump, use the K.I.S.S method ;)
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That's my thinking. Surely if the EWP is closer to the engine inlet then it'll have more influence on the heater inlet too? In fact I think the most logical thing to do would be to build an entirely new coolant rail out of hose, but with the EWP just before the engine and all the aux hoses where they were in the first place.

Cripes.

The Mad Hat Man said:
get yoself a cheap thermometer and check temps as they are, before yu change anything, particularly flow, to be determined by heat change.

Non-Contact LCD Display Point IR Infrared Thermometer Temperature Tem Gun 350°C | eBay
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Will that be accurate enough being cheap and all?
 
It doesn't matter where you place the pump, the prt does not rely on the t/stat to open to maintain flow.
The pressure relief will operate if the pressure is high enough, when the stat opens it closes the bypass....get it ;)
 
Freelaner said:
It doesn't matter where you place the pump, the prt does not rely on the t/stat to open to maintain flow.
The pressure relief will operate if the pressure is high enough, when the stat opens it closes the bypass....get it ;)
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Aaaaah so there are two things going on inside there then! But I do think that putting the pump near where the mech one was and plumbing in the hoses in their original location has got to be a good thing. Albeit into a rubber coolant rail using T cons.

Ok just ordered one of them fancy IR thermo's, paid a few quid more and got it form a UK seller with a 1 yr warranty :).
 
WLJayne said:
Aaaaah so there are two things going on inside there then! But I do think that putting the pump near where the mech one was and plumbing in the hoses in their original location has got to be a good thing. Albeit into a rubber coolant rail using T cons.

Ok just ordered one of them fancy IR thermo's, paid a few quid more and got it form a UK seller with a 1 yr warranty :).
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place it where you feel it will be most effective.

the prt is a simple, yet clever, answer to a problem that should've never have been designed into the bloody thing in the first place

i have a used cream prt you can have if you want it
 
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Freelaner said:
place it where you feel it will be most effective.

the prt is a simple, yet clever, answer to a problem that should've never have been designed into the bloody thing in the first place

i have a used cream prt you can have if you want it
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Thanks mate but I have my dark grey one form the original setup - if that's the right one. I imagine it'll be easiest if I just stick it where it originaly was, just behind the rad.

Well I'll have to have a good think about this - we're talking about pretty major surgery here.
 
WLJayne said:
Thanks mate but I have my dark grey one form the original setup - if that's the right one. I imagine it'll be easiest if I just stick it where it originaly was, just behind the rad.

Well I'll have to have a good think about this - we're talking about pretty major surgery here.
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no worries, i just thought you were going to play with the flow rates.

i have the grey one and it's bang on, put everything back in the standard position then if it doesn't give the desired effect (which it should do tbh) you can rejig from there :)
 
jamesmartin said:
not tempted to put original wp back:)
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Nope as I would quite like the benefits of a dynamic cooling system and a post shutdown run on feature - that was the whole point of this to begin with ;).

If this works, it will means that installation is actually much easier than how we did it to begin with.
 
Diesel Do said:
I'd have to murder him!!!!!!!!!:D
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You'd have to join a que behind my wallet!

Well I'm going to stop running scenarios in my head and driving myself bonkers until I get that thermometer. If the temperature on the upper radiator hose is where it needs to be then we don't need to fit the PRT. Its also possible that the EWP temp sensor is out of calibration and is making the pump work harder than it should be working. So if the controller say "yup i'm at 75 degrees" and the thermometer says 85 degrees then we have a problem. I don'tr know if the EWP sensor has a positive or negative temperature coefficient - if it's negative then we could just stick a resistsor onto it to get an accurate controller reading. Not sure what to do if it's positive. That alone may really help the whole system, although the heater will still need to be addressed.

I'd really rather not rebuilt the whole bloody thing if I can avoid it.

Thanks guys I really value your input :).

Will.
 
Well at least when this is all over with I think I'll be able to claim some senblance of cooling guru status - I'm pretty sure I know the part number of each hose by heart :rolleyes:.

Well I better sort it out soon because the frost is coming.
 
WLJayne said:
Well at least when this is all over with I think I'll be able to claim some senblance of cooling guru status - I'm pretty sure I know the part number of each hose by heart :rolleyes:.

Well I better sort it out soon because the frost is coming.
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Just had a disturbing thought
























if the heater isn't getting hot, is the ird heat exchanger working properly? :eek:
 
Freelaner said:
if the heater isn't getting hot, is the ird heat exchanger working properly? :eek:
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Almost certainly not, question is does it matter?

Here's what's going to happen if Jesus loves me:

- The EWP temp sensor is going to be off by 10 or 15 degrees (lower than actual.)
- I'm going to fit a fat resistor and get it bang on
- The pump is going to breathe a huge sigh of relief and name it's unborn pump-babies after me in my honour
- MAW Solutions is going to sell me a nice ickle booster pump
- I'm going to fit it, it'll slip right in and when I turn the heater on I'll be able to make cheese on toast in the footwells
- Then I'm going to win a Disco 3 with all the trimmings.
 
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