Daves D2 TD5 Project

Man. I am
Loving the new office chair. Does it vibrate when you sit on it.
I am waiting for the 10 o clock breaking news.

bong.

daves engine no longer vibrates.

Bong.

Success

My home built Chair is great, much more comfortable than the old one, and I reckon it will last a lot longer than the previous 2 Chinesiums

The D2's TD5 Engine has so far and over multiple Drive Cycles, (shhhhhhhhhhhh) , been consistently pulling better and better now, and as the Fuelling has been relearning it has gradually got less and less vibration, which has now settled to almost tolerable level, and only noticeable on Idle if you are as anal as I am. Obviously this was 2 faults, (it wasn't actually misfiring, but must have had a cylinder imbalance, and of course the El-cheapo Mounts I fitted are responsible for the rest of the vibration that is now left .............. I hope !!

I am praying that the new Genuine Land Rover Engine Mounts will sort the last piece of the Vibration puzzle
Yet to find the time to get the Car on the lift to fit them, due to some awful jobs this week ................

Volkswagen Tiguan that everyone and his dog got at before it came here !! It had had 3 new but Chinese Flea-bay junk Tailgate locks, one fitted and 2 others in boxes in the back, all of which were dead !!
I think either one of those locks, or some numpty with bits of wire had blown the CCM
CCM was u/s, finally got that all sorted yesterday, including programming both Keys on ................. Did I ever mention I hate VW products with a passion
Just got to put the Interior Trims back together today. And then I gotta diagnose a Renault Scenic Auto, Auto Transmission in limp won't get past 3rd gear, Car running on 3 cylinders, Christmas Tree Dash and hasn't seen any form of Service for at least 5 years ...................
Oh the joys !! ................. NOT

Hopefully might get D15KOE on the lift later today to fit the new new Engine Mounts

Talking of "D15KOE" , after almost 4 months since I took ownership, (28/06/2021) DVLA have finally got their asses into gear and sorted out the V5 / Plate Transfer which arrived a few days ago, so I can now legally drive it with D15KOE on it, has had to be driven with my Trade Plates in the windows since I've had it
The on-line service wouldn't let me do it all on-line as the PO had died and there was a break in the Taxation History / SORN.

I've been pulled a couple of times by Cops wanting to know why it didn't show on the ANPR Database, and why it has had Trade Plates in the window for months ................. I was expecting that, so I had the MOT and proof of PP ownership plus copies of paperwork to / from DVLA in the Glovebox, thankfully our local Cops are pretty sensible and have a bit of discretion !!

DVLA Service was woeful !!

I was disappointed when I fitted genuine engine and transmission mounts, they appeared to make my slight vibration worse, the old softened mounts dampened the vibration more than the new harder ones

Awww. Mannn.
Crap. And double crap. You have worked very hard on this beast. Where do we go from here.

Thanks for the replies, however in my particular case that is not what some experts have said / suggested so sorry to say this but I sincerely hope interceptorxj is wrong in my specific case

Let me recap ....

My original mounts were so bad they had collapsed and the rubber was poking out through the 10mm Hole in the bottom, the Vibration was awful, like really awful

I (stupidly) fitted the cheapo mounts because my spend was escalating over the original £2000 then £3000 budget, and not being familiar with D2's I wrongly assumed that the cheapo's would prove a point, and if they failed in 6 months time so be it, fit the dearer ones ..................
Now we all know what assumption is the mother of In actual fact, the Chinese mounts did improve it a bit, (perhaps 25%), and the Injector Harness job has been the biggest improvement at around another 50% +
That was because whilst it wasn't misfiring, the Cylinder Balance was well off due to the ECU Plug being full of Oil which throws off vital sensor inputs etc !!

Up until then I thought I had a Torque Converter / Driveplate issue, hopefully not although I do now have standard TD5 Auto spares. Currently I am glad I didn't bite a £700 + bullet and buy from Ashcroft !!

I was wrong, often am
D15KOE is on the lift as of last night and the 4 Bolts are out, we will know later whether I have wasted £165 on parts, I sincerely hope not

What has been explained to me by several experts, Indie LR Garages, who work on Land Rovers and they also sell Parts, is that the proper Land Rover mounts are filled with Fluid (I knew that) and the Rubber used is softer and more supple than the pattern ones (I didn't know that) .............
Many of the Pattern mounts also do not have the Viscous function , again I didn't know that

In the words of one Indie "The Chinesium Mountings are awful, Bearmach ones are better and have a 3 year warranty, (but he would only fit them on a tatty old Agri Defender), and if I want it to be as it should be then for a Discovery, he would only fit Genuine Land Rover"
I agree with him, for example I work on Mercedes, VAG, BMW and others, and I wouldn't have advised a customer to fit Chinese junk to his Car.

I desperately need to stop spending right now, this is the second Car this year that has cost me almost £4k in parts to get up to my standard, I didn't expect either to come to that, but freely admit I was too eager and stupid to check those vehicles out really thoroughly before hand, because D15KOE didn't actually cost me a penny to "buy" and the other one, an older Classic Mercedes was only a few hundred, I bought them both expecting to spend a couple of grand, but not almost £4k on each vehicle

if I had known that I would have sent both vehicles packing

That said, I am too sentimental with old Vehicles and I do love bringing them back up to their former glory, but of course that actually results in losing money, and thanks to all this ridiculously managed Covid malarky that is now in short supply.
Another reason I'm grizzling is because I've lost 2 of my biggest customers through C19, one fleet owner has gone skint and the other guy with several cars died and now my turnover is well down, yet everything around me has doubled in cost this year I got almost bugger all in the government Covid hand-outs because when they started I had only been trading 2 years

Apologies for groaning on and thanks for being here ...............

Will report back later with a or a

The positive in all this is I have from Today until Monday eve to do a bunch off the "To Do List" which is actually getting smaller now

Dave2302 said:

is that the proper Land Rover mounts are filled with Fluid (I knew that)

Click to expand...

I didn't know they were liquid filled. I think i may just been disappointed as i had expected them to cure my slight vibration and it didn't. The cause of my slight vibration is obviously something else. I changed the mountings and crank pulley to no avail.
Hopefully it will work for you.

The fat lady hasn't sung yet, until D15KOE has been taken off the lift and road tested

BUT ....

The initial signs are good, both new Genuine LR Mounts are fitted, and I have left the Nuts and bolts just off of nipped, lowered the Car so most of the weight was on the wheels but lift pads wouldn't move, then I fired the old girl up and gave her a few revs ................. I do that with all Engine mounts in order to make sure they can settle on the Bolt Holes within the free play that they have

I couldn't feel anything now through the Body, (elbow resting on the Door Card top was a bad place before) nothing there, also hand on the Auto Gear Shifter

Having a Coffee before I go skin a few more knuckles and rattle everything up tight

I am now praying

Interceptorxj said:

I didn't know they were liquid filled. I think i may just been disappointed as i had expected them to cure my slight vibration and it didn't. The cause of my slight vibration is obviously something else. I changed the mountings and crank pulley to no avail.
Hopefully it will work for you.

Click to expand...

Not trying to tell grandma how to suck eggs, you probably know more about Land Rovers than I do, but maybe this might help ..............

Has your Disco had Injector Harness checked / replaced, more importantly checked the Red ECU Plug for oil, and finally, check the Injector Codings are correct then reset the Adaptives ....................... In other words I had a Cylinder Imbalance.

That made the single biggest difference to mine, my Injectors were coded correctly in the ECU, but I am now almost certain the biggest portion of my Vibration was cured by resetting the Adaptives in the Engine ECU and then letting it relearn over a few trips out.

Be warned, mine ran like a bag of sh 1 t on the first trip out, then gradually over the next 4 or 5 20 - 30 mile drive cycles it got better and better
After that it was almost tolerable with the Chinese Mounts, except I am an anal perfectionist who expects all my vehicles to drive as they did when they left the factory, (or better)

HTH

So the Disco drives beautifully now, Vibe has totally gone
Short lived joy however ....

After a good thrash around I came back all happy, put it on the lift as I have a few little jobs left, like change the Auto Transmission Oil and Filter .............................

As I'm lifting it I see drip drip drip ............................

Engine Oil coming from the Gasket for the Turbo's Oil return, which of course I don't have here, so I just ordered a couple, cost more for the naffin Postage than the 2 Tubby Gaskets ...............................................

NEVER-ROVER !!

Fantastic news! **** news! Fantastic news again! Oh, not so **** but still somewhat **** news! This is a roller coaster ride Dave. It'll come to an end eventually though so just hang on. We're all rooting for you.

Maybe a little advice? It seems you have your Disco pretty much sorted apart from some (to me, and probably others) very minor niggles. Perhaps stop stressing and just enjoy as is for a while so you're not spending any more money. After all, old cars have their quirks and niggles and we learn to live with them and even love them. Mine has plenty but she soldiers on reliably with little fuss.

Thanks to you all who answer on here, and all advice is more than welcome
It really does help to know there are like minded individuals "around" other than that Mel and my Cats aren't interested and nor are my customers

I put an M8 Socket on the 2 Bolts holding the Oil Drain Pipe to the Turbo, and they were barely nipped up

Someone should really lobby and pass a law against folks just setting up supposedly professional garages with no qualifications whatsoever, the PO, (god rest him), of my Car paid good money to have a lot of the work done on this car, including fitting the later / newer 15P Engine and Transmission, and most of these jobs that were done were to say the least, sub standard, well and truly sub standard

Anyways, I couldn't find a suitable Gasket, but I undid it, gasket is a tin compression type, stuck tight on the turbo so I've rinsed it thoroughly with Brake Cleaner put a tiny smear of VHT Silicone Gasket Sealer on it and the Bolt threads and re assembled and pulled the Bolts up tight, will leave it until morning before starting it.

Hopefully it will last a week or so until I can get to change it when the new Gasket arrives, will report back the morra

I know I'm a fussy git lol, but I need this old girl to be reliable, yes fixing the Key Fobs is a luxury, as is changing the Drivers Seat upholstery and fitting the new Handbrake and H/L Gaiters but the oil leak, whilst only a drip drip now, on a long run that could potentially destroy the Engine if it got worse

Anyway, I'm happier now I found out it's an easy job to do lol

A pleasing and very positive update
D15KOE has been a really good old fella today, took Mel for a trip into Kyle and back, a few stop offs on the way.

Driving superbly, a real pleasure, and upon return not a single solitary drip of Oil anywhere and more specifically from that Turbo Oil Return Pipe....





Hums along very comfortably / quietly / vibe free at 70 mph, a real treat now
So after checking the Tubby Pipe, he is now on the lift, Trans Fluid draining and pleased to report that all 6 Trans Pan Bolts came out without being seized either in the Casing or the Ally Sump "Pan Edge Clamps" ....





I'll whizz the Filter off after me late lunch, and unbolt loosely the Valve Block, plus the Cooler Pipes, that way I will get the majority of all the Fluid drained !!

Will leave it dripping over night and reassemble / refill tommorrow, new Pan Gasket and Filter obviously Fluid was nice and clean which is a good sign, Auto Cogbox is shifting beautifully too, more so now all adaptives have been relearned

This will be his last Service item now, I have been holding off on that in case I had to pull the Gearbox and do Drive Plate and Converter due to that pesky vibration, but nope, I am quietly confident that is a thing of the past
So, as I've got until Monday evening on D15KOE I am going to also fit his new Handbrake and Hi / Low Lever Gaiters, and a couple of other jobs all of which have the parts here waiting patiently.

I also bought this cheapish gizmo during the week, and can now confirm all 3 of D15KOEs Key PCB's are transmitting RF, it also tests the IR function of Keys like the MB ones ....



I am gonna spend a tad more coin soon .....................

D15KOE has had the centre Silencer delete done, they are restrictive and the Turbo's are more efficient without it, but what I don't like is the Exhaust Drone at higher revs if I kick the Trans down on a long incline, so I am going to buy a Stainless "straight through" type Silencer / Resonator and weld that into the new Stainless delete pipe I recently fitted, I'm pretty sure that will kill most if not all of the 5 Cylinder Drone at > 2300 rpm ...........................

I did the same on the V8 R170 and it worked, and I could only fit a smallish one under the Trans Tunnel on that Car, D15KOE conversely has room for a bigger Resonator, and the "straight through" by nature will not affect the Exhaust Gas flow from the Turbo ....................

"Everyone's a winner, petite de journais" as we used to say in Peckham

L8r's guys

The Transmission Oil and Filter change went perfectly, I also took the time to clean up the exterior of Trans Sump and give it a good coat of Primer and some Matt Black before reassembling.
Filled with fresh Oil, jobs a good 'un, I'm not sure exactly how much these hold from brand new (dry) but I got a full 7.5 litres in on this exchange, so I'd say there wasn't much of the old Oil left, and that was fairly clean all said and done

The old Oil in the Pan and just a small amount of wear and tear muck on the "Schmagnet" but not bad at all certainly nothing to worry about ....



Fill 'er up ....



Nicely painted Pan, no leaks now he's been Road Tested and up to Temperature ....



Jobs a good 'un

I looked at some of my old files from when I had the Transmission Firm, the 4HP22 Electronic fitted in a D2 takes 9.5 litres from bone dry including Converter and Oil Cooler etc .................
So therefore, (doing the maths in my head), I got around a 79% Fluid change on this one, and as it wasn't that dirty, that makes the job a real good 'un

I opened up the old Filter earlier today to see wot debris might have been in there, nada not a sossidge
TBH the Trans and Converter shifts way too nice and crisp for anything nasty to be in their

Poor old D15KOE, the roller coaster ride kind of continues ....

I was going to do both the rear Outriggers and a few more Chassis Plates, down to the point where a 2.2m full rear "Half Chassis" will weld on during my Xmas shutdown, but yesterday I found a bad bit in between the right rear Outrigger, so I've ordered 2 rear Outriggers yesterday, (£212 inc postage) and I will do this both sides and continue down to the 2.2m rear radius arm mounting point sooner rather than later
Temporary patch going on their today, and a permanent underside in 3mm too, that will be less to do then when the outriggers and body mount bolts arrive !! I'm not even gonna attempt to undo those 2 Body Mount Bolts, will just cut them off

Aside from the cost of the 2 Outriggers, at least the Welding doesn't cost too much in consumables, just keeps me outta mischief in my spare time

I got really brave today and used a bigger ball-pein hammer and bashed everywhere else forward of the rear Outriggers and up as far as the Bellhousing area by the front Axle, and thankfully, despite trying I couldn't produce any more holes

So now it's all descaled, I think I will Schutz it all up to that point, and when the welding is all done I'll fill the bugger up with my Waxoyl / Oil Cocktail, then he should be good for the winter, and hopefully another winter too, by which time I should have built up a decent rolling Chassis with a new 2.2m rear half, from all the bits I'm getting off Roddy, or maybe even done that with a bought and built up full Galvy (y)
Doing it that way the Chassis swap should go a whole bunch quicker .................. Says he optimistically

That's the plan anyways

D15KOE is a keeper

yikes Dave. You are a nutter.
Congrats on the excellent job and the total good vibrations.
Your journey has made all of
My projects seem very insignificant
But I very much enjoy the read
Keep up the good work.

Thanks Paul,

No ones projects are insignificant buddy, we are all doing what we can and hopefully enjoying it

My old D15KOE is really getting there now

I am determined to return D15KOE to his former glory and like my V8 MB's I will keep him up to scratch and have them all until I die or DVLA take my licence, so hopefully a fair whiley yet

The guy with the 2011 L322 booked in today rolled up late at 11:30 am, by which time I was under D15KOE doing some more welding
He's not in a mega hurry so I told him I'd get tuit tomorrow, does anyone think he'd notice if I swapped my TD5 Engine for the TDV8 in his RR

I am now down as far as the Rear Radius Arm mounts, which is as far as I'm going on this Chassis.
I just have a few smaller plates left to go between bits like the left and right Body Mounts just forward of the Fuel Tank, and one inside the left rear outrigger, plus that bit behind the Fuel Filter which was left by whoever did the previous rear end welding before I got it.

I managed to get the newly welded areas Schutzed before close of play as well, will get some pics up tomorrow, I've just got to bolt the Rear Rollbar back up and the right rear Bump Stop first thing and then I better crack on and get the Range Rover done before the weekend

Dave2302 said:

He's not in a mega hurry so I told him I'd get tuit tomorrow, does anyone think he'd notice if I swapped my TD5 Engine for the TDV8 in his RR

Click to expand...

No way, I changed my D2 td5 for a TDV8 4.4 RR. They were almost the same, just change over the number plates. you will be sweet.

If it is a Vogue SE / Autobiog he may miss the cooled seats, but it is going into Winter, so chances are it will be Spring before he tries to press that button.

Cheers

It looks like a long way to go but the progress of this build looks good.

Thanks for the replies guys

OK, here's some pics of all the D15KOE efforts over the last wee while ...................

Chassis welding right rear inner side 16 gauge plate ....





Chassis Welding right rear underside, 3mm plate ....



Chassis Welding inside right rear Outrigger 16 Gauge plate ....



Rear of Inner Sill welding, 18 gauge plate ....



Whole of Inner Sill Schutzed ....





Clean jobbie, new Transfer Box lever and Handbrake Lever Gaiters ....





I think they looked better before I refitted 'em but hey ho "they will settle down with wear sir" !! ....



Also both sides front and rear Radius Arm Bolts have been undone, removed, Copperslipped and refitted now

A fair few jobs ticked off my Discovery list now. I think we are off to North East Highlands on Saturday, that'll be a nice run for D15KOE


Busy with a customers 2011 L322 TDV8 tomorrow, parts arriving for MOT repairs, and got to look at the Starter Terminals, it may need a Starter, intermittently it doesn't but I do here the Starter trying, but just a hefty "Click", I haven't looked yet but I expect that will be a beast of a job

TTFN