Dashboard Removal

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Doo said:
No setting eh? Sounds like a plan then. I had read somewhere that some bloke replaced one and it would only allow a certain degree of play (I don't recall the full tale) so he was advised to nano it...

Anyhoo, advice accepted & I have ordered three new motors. May as well since I'm in there.

One more thing.

I need to lift the heater box in order to get the last bit of carpet out. I ended up cutting the driver & passenger side out. But here's a thing, the passenger side always suffers from the AC leakage, yet it was dry whereas the drivers side was wet o_O

The drains, I assume they leak into those wrinkly rubber hoses that go through the trans tunnel? They are slightly twisted and slightly askew, but not a rip or tear in either, so where's the leak??? :eek: Any tips while I'm in there?

Back to the heater box, I've undone 4 bolts that I could see, but she's solid. It also looks like someone was in to fix leaky "O" rings if the state of the ducting on that side is anything to go by :rolleyes: I have to replace the carpet and the only way I can see is remove the AC drain pipes, lift the box about 5mm and wheech it out...

Any better ways?

Thanks :cool:
Click to expand...

That is quite possible. When the motors are set they travel in each direction until the flaps stall on their seals. This then gives the HEVAC motor controller info as to where the centre of travel is. Openings in each direction are then set by the amount of travel in either direction measured by the pot. Can't remember having any problems other than a bit of a fiddle with Aircon drains. Remember they were all shapes so soaked them in hot water to return them to original shape. But i took out the entire heater to refurb it.
 
Doo said:
No setting eh? Sounds like a plan then. I had read somewhere that some bloke replaced one and it would only allow a certain degree of play (I don't recall the full tale) so he was advised to nano it...

Anyhoo, advice accepted & I have ordered three new motors. May as well since I'm in there.

One more thing.

I need to lift the heater box in order to get the last bit of carpet out. I ended up cutting the driver & passenger side out. But here's a thing, the passenger side always suffers from the AC leakage, yet it was dry whereas the drivers side was wet o_O

The drains, I assume they leak into those wrinkly rubber hoses that go through the trans tunnel? They are slightly twisted and slightly askew, but not a rip or tear in either, so where's the leak??? :eek: Any tips while I'm in there?

Back to the heater box, I've undone 4 bolts that I could see, but she's solid. It also looks like someone was in to fix leaky "O" rings if the state of the ducting on that side is anything to go by :rolleyes: I have to replace the carpet and the only way I can see is remove the AC drain pipes, lift the box about 5mm and wheech it out...

Any better ways?

Thanks :cool:
Click to expand...

Sunroof drains can pop off and leak but the heater o-rings are also worth checking while you are in there. They'll leak the driver side but it'll be coolant rather than rain water.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Sunroof drains can pop off and leak but the heater o-rings are also worth checking while you are in there. They'll leak the driver side but it'll be coolant rather than rain water.
Click to expand...

No sunny roof to worry about :cool:

Looks like the "O" rings were tackled at some point because John Wayne also cut the bejeebus out of the duct on the right side.

I'm home after struggling for a bit with the carpet. I may yet have to remove it and shave some foam off the backing to get it to slide in under the heater :rolleyes:

Tomorrow, I'll first try to use a ratchet strap, some swearing and a rubber hammer.

Right now, I am about to cause mayhem to veggie's and vegans....

Sausage & chips for dinner :D
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Veggies are not too bad I find.
Most of their food seems to be joking sausage, joking chicken etc etc. Why make quorn look like a sausage if you don’t like them :rolleyes: Why call it vegetarian chicken :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Because they crave meat. That's why they're so angry all the time, the frustration mixed with the constant hunger is no good.
 
vegans :eek: don’t get me started.

I have a vegan friends from before it was all a fad
They get ****y about pushing their ways on you, standing there in leather shoes :rolleyes:

Telling you how eating meat is wrong, but killing them then wearing their skin as a fashionable accessory doesn’t seem to phase them....until you point it out :oops:

The time she got a leather sofa was fun
 
Back on track, so I fit the new blend motors and then, three weeks later when the dash is all back together (or should I test them first...) how do I get them to set themselves? o_O

Do I go LO to HI in increments? Or should I just switch on and see what happens?

In my mind, twisted as it may be, I should imagine if they are set at "LO" from the factory, then I would go between LO & HI so the system can get a feel for the start/stop points....

Or is there a simpler way of going about things?

I mean, the broken motor flap was set at roasting on the passenger side so do I set the flap to suit the motor or leave it as it is?

Very confusing because I cant remember whet the HEVAC controller sets itself at when plugging back in and switching on the ignition. :confused:
 
Doo said:
I got that bit.

I'll be fitting them first...but what do I set the flaps at Squadron Leader :D
Click to expand...

As long as the motors are fitted you just use the HEVAC as normal. BUT it is not a good idea to switch the ignition on with dash board out and everything disconnected. It's not even a good idea to have the battery connected until everything is back together.
 
wammers said:
As long as the motors are fitted you just use the HEVAC as normal. BUT it is not a good idea to switch the ignition on with dash board out and everything disconnected. It's not even a good idea to have the battery connected until everything is back together.
Click to expand...

I know I should have disconnected the battery, but I need to start it to top up the battery every now & then as well as run the central locking.

When I'm about done, I'll disconnect to hook up the airbags and whatnot.

Sorry for all the questions, but I just want to do it right and not have to take it all apart again (although now I've done it, it's not quarter as bad as I imagined).

Thank you for your invaluable help Wammers :cool:
 
Oh joy...

cEEtLLc.jpg


As you can see, John Wayn & Yule Brinner were here before me...

4NHKgXa.jpg


Did away with the excess wiring for the radio and plan to make a much MUCH neater job before she's back on the road.

H2VF8sD.jpg


All that for this little bugger. I suspect the brushes are worn. I tested the pot and it's adjusting so it seems to be ok.

6LlhzKg.jpg


The carpet is a real laugh to get in :mad::mad:

mwHorC2.jpg


Almost there though....

8KzATg0.jpg


I suspect the back section will be a damn site easier as there will be nothing to impede it. I'll need to remove the plastic bit off the grey carpet as my mate seems to have lost it o_O

All the fun of owning a car made in rural England from wood, brass and veruca's :p
 
Doo said:
There are umpteen red wires.....all chopped :D
Click to expand...

I know, had to take the dash out of Buttercup to get the heater working, exactly the same problem with a disco some years ago.
Always a bit daunting until you actually make a start on it.
 
frog hopper said:
I know, had to take the dash out of Buttercup to get the heater working, exactly the same problem with a disco some years ago.
Always a bit daunting until you actually make a start on it.
Click to expand...

I've had several friends tell me I'll never get it back together again. But it aint no humpty dumpty :p

My sister proclaimed it scrap and my wife asked what had I done???

Thing is, I just know it'll be easy enough. But watching them squirm is payment enough :D:D
 
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