Cooking oil in TD5

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Diesel Bug is not restricted to veg oil mixes. We get it in the boats all the time. Most boat yards keep biocide of various sorts. Half of them promise to re-dissolve the contamination but I don't believe it. They will at least kill it. Once its there though, unless you can steam clean the tank etc, its very difficult to get rid of completely.
As regards waste oil, I would try and avoid hypoid gear oil. Its got sulphur in it and I think it can leave some acids behind when it burns. Unless someone knows different of course.
 
Here is a picture of the filter set up.

You can see the washable stainless mesh filters below the twin marine diesel filters. The left one is 100 microns and the right one is 50 microns.

The blue hose is merely domestic washing machine hose which is rated to 150psi and is cheap. All other fittings, including the oil drum ones, are domestic 22mm and 15mm which I had kicking around my workshop. Oil drums have standard BSP threads which is useful.

The oil flows from the bottom filters on the right hand side via a washing machine ball valve and hose through a 14mm banjo into the diesel filters on the right hand side. From there it leaves the filters via another 14mm banjo into a 5 foot length of hose which gets shoved into my tank filler or into the holding drum for use later. The whole thing is operated on compressed air at less than 15psi. You could use a foot pump at a push.

The washing machine ball valve beneath the filters is to drain off any sludge etc. that may settle out without going through any of the filtration stages. It makes washing the tank easy.

The catch tank has a plastic gauge just visible to the right hand side of the tank to indicate how much oil is in the tank. Useful if you dont want to overfill your tank etc.
 

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Shifty1962 said:
Here is a picture of the filter set up.

You can see the washable stainless mesh filters below the twin marine diesel filters. The left one is 100 microns and the right one is 50 microns.

The blue hose is merely domestic washing machine hose which is rated to 150psi and is cheap. All other fittings, including the oil drum ones, are domestic 22mm and 15mm which I had kicking around my workshop. Oil drums have standard BSP threads which is useful.

The oil flows from the bottom filters on the right hand side via a washing machine ball valve and hose through a 14mm banjo into the diesel filters on the right hand side. From there it leaves the filters via another 14mm banjo into a 5 foot length of hose which gets shoved into my tank filler or into the holding drum for use later. The whole thing is operated on compressed air at less than 15psi. You could use a foot pump at a push.

The washing machine ball valve beneath the filters is to drain off any sludge etc. that may settle out without going through any of the filtration stages. It makes washing the tank easy.

The catch tank has a plastic gauge just visible to the right hand side of the tank to indicate how much oil is in the tank. Useful if you dont want to overfill your tank etc.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the info Shifty. I'm not quite understanding you at some points. I've got someone on the way over for dinner but when I get time I'll type in what your saying in a way that I understand it (I've got Aspergers) and hopefully you can correct any mistakes/add/remove bits? :)

If I ever do get a 90/110 and I have to go down the country to collect it maybe I could pop in and take a look at your set up? and perhaps I could buy some cheap fuel off you to get me up the road?
 
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Shifty1962 said:
Here is a picture of the filter set up.

You can see the washable stainless mesh filters below the twin marine diesel filters. The left one is 100 microns and the right one is 50 microns.

The blue hose is merely domestic washing machine hose which is rated to 150psi and is cheap. All other fittings, including the oil drum ones, are domestic 22mm and 15mm which I had kicking around my workshop. Oil drums have standard BSP threads which is useful.

The oil flows from the bottom filters on the right hand side via a washing machine ball valve and hose through a 14mm banjo into the diesel filters on the right hand side. From there it leaves the filters via another 14mm banjo into a 5 foot length of hose which gets shoved into my tank filler or into the holding drum for use later. The whole thing is operated on compressed air at less than 15psi. You could use a foot pump at a push.

The washing machine ball valve beneath the filters is to drain off any sludge etc. that may settle out without going through any of the filtration stages. It makes washing the tank easy.

The catch tank has a plastic gauge just visible to the right hand side of the tank to indicate how much oil is in the tank. Useful if you dont want to overfill your tank etc.
Click to expand...

You're a clever little bugger Shifty i'll give you that

Lovin your setup

Have you managed to find a blend that will enable you to run 100% moonshine?
 
goldenbrown said:
just out of interest could you use new veg oil as it was on offer in cash and carry!
Click to expand...

Every time I park my TD5 Disco in the ASDA carpark it knows it's in for a treat!

A trolley-load of pure veg oil, tipped straight into the tank, and at a 50-50 mix the TD5 runs MUCH more sweetly, which you will notice inside 10 miles.

The TD5 heats up its fuel as a side-effect of the fuel injection system, and that makes running a TD5 on SVO even better. HOT SVO is the business.

Get your tank down to about quarter-full say a bit under 20 litres in it, and toss in 10 or 12 litres of SVO. Don't use less or you won't feel the real effect. If you don't like it, fill in more DERV.

But I am sure you will like it.

Keep an eye on the prices.

CharlesY
 
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CharlesY said:
Every time I park my TD5 Disco in the ASDA carpark it knows it's in for a treat!

A trolley-load of pure veg oil, tipped straight into the tank, and at a 50-50 mix the TD5 runs MUCH more sweetly, which you will notice inside 10 miles.

The TD5 heats up its fuel as a side-effect of the fuel injection system, and that makes runnibg a TD5 on SVO even better. HOT SVO is the business.

Get your tank down to about quarter-full say a bit under 20 litres in it, and toss in 10 or 12 litres of SVO. Don't use less or you won't feel the real effect. If you don't like it, fill in more DERV.

But I am sure you will like it.

Keep an eye on the prices.

CharlesY
Click to expand...

would i need to change fuel filters more regular charlesY?
 
buckshot said:
would i need to change fuel filters more regular charlesY?
Click to expand...


Good point .... buy a new filter FIRST, and carry it in the car. SVO does loosen dirt in the system which may clog a filter up.

Changing a TD5 filter is SO EASY!
Trick is to carry one and also about litre of clean diesel in a bottle.
Take off the old filter, and sort out the TWO O-rings.
MAKE SURE THE SMALLER ONE IS NOT LEFT BEHIND!!!!!

Now make sure BOTH O-Rings are in place on the new filter, and pour clean diesel into the filter to fill it as full as possible. Make the O-rings wet with diesel.
Fit the filter and tighten firmly by hand.

Start engine. No priming or bleeding should be needed, but if it splutters or stops do the 1-2-3-4-5 throttle pedal trick.

Once you have used SVO, the system will stay clean.

CharlesY
 
thinking about taking the plunge and chucking a couple of bottles of svo into the tank but have read on the net that it's too thick and will bugger up the fuel pump?
 
jsbholden said:
thinking about taking the plunge and chucking a couple of bottles of svo into the tank but have read on the net that it's too thick and will bugger up the fuel pump?
Click to expand...

Utter drivel.
Throw it in up to 50-50 and feel the difference.

Charles.
 
only put in 3lts as only put 17lts or derv in yesterday. only done about 5miles so far so will see how it goes over the weekend!
 
i don't recommend filtering through tights! My brother in un-law (i live in sin) did this, and ****ed his Bedford engine. He ended up getting it running again with a water butt container containing pure diesel in the passenger seat of the van, but the engine was never the same, so he replaced it with a 2.3D Opel engine.
 
I filter mine through an engine fuel filter. To get it to pump through I thin it down with pump diesel 'cos the pump is only a little electric SU fuel pump so it takes time but not bothered about that. Is an engine fuel filter enough. No problems with smoke etc. in both Series 2.5 or Taxi with Nissan 2.7. When Ive no waste oil to get rid of I chuck in 2 or 3 galleons of rapeseed oil from Tesco and then top up with proper diesel. Both engines seem to run quieter and smoother with either used engine oil or Tesco stuff in them.
 
day 1 - 40 miles:

No change in performance, or perhaps slightly down (might be time to change filter?)

Starts OK even in sub 0 temps (bit lumpy to start with but once cyl 5 warms up she's ok)

Smells a bit funny out the back!!

engine is MUCH quieter. was a bit tappy top end before but now much reduced (injector lubrication?)
 
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