Cooking oil in TD5

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john winsemius said:
This would be the best system to do it right, removes all water,dirt,antifreeze, petrol everthing thats not drain oil. All things have a particle size and this separates by particle size. Google it up and do read on it quite interesting.
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Obviously not read loads on it but from what i did read it only filters out the pure water leaving everything else behind?:confused:
 
Has anybody tried one of the centrifuges from oilybits? It will remove the water and all the contaminants, i'm not sure if it'll remove the antifreeze tho? At about £500 for one its not cheap but would pay for itself in 5 month (in my case).

Any thoughts on it??:confused:

Also i've just seen on thier site, a fuel polishing pot, removes water and cleans oil to 3 microns, only £79.

The more i look into this the more confused i get?????
 
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john winsemius said:
From a engine that used it and no longer needs it
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My local garage has to pay to dispose of used engine oil. Last time I asked it costs £95 to have a 200 litre drum taken away and they generate more than 1000 litres a week servicing cars. Guess what? If you ask nicely they will let you take it for nowt. Its where I get mine from. I even fill up their biccy tin once a month just to keep them sweet.
 
Shifty1962 said:
My local garage has to pay to dispose of used engine oil. Last time I asked it costs £95 to have a 200 litre drum taken away and they generate more than 1000 litres a week servicing cars. Guess what? If you ask nicely they will let you take it for nowt. Its where I get mine from. I even fill up their biccy tin once a month just to keep them sweet.
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Is it not a problem having all the other stuff in it? Petrol, water, antifreeze?
 
My local garage drains the sump oil direct into a catch can then pumps it into an oil drum. It is a mixture of sump oil and axle/transmission oils. Any water and crap settles at the bottom of the drum and I take the oil from about a foot above the bottom leaving behind the crap. I've yet to have a problem with water contamination.

They are not allowed by law to store any contaminated fuel in the same oil drums so its never been a problem. It has to be kept separately and costs even more to get rid of because its more flammable. Thats why it costs you a fortune for them to drain and flush your fuel system if you get it wrong. I've had a drum or two of mixed fuel (where peeps fill up with the wrong stuff) and its been perfect for the lawn mower and for thinning the used engine oil. Some of it may have accidently been filtered and found its way into my Defender as well ;)
 
You could pay the duty on waste engine oil and use it as a fuel in a land rover,but it does not work.
With in a tank full of driving with a 300 tdi your injectors will have a lump of carbon built up on them making your engine smoke and run crappy.
If you take the injectors out and clean the ends they will crap up with the next tank of diesel and waste engine oil.
It's a waste of time .
 
spencer1885 said:
You could pay the duty on waste engine oil and use it as a fuel in a land rover,but it does not work.
With in a tank full of driving with a 300 tdi your injectors will have a lump of carbon built up on them making your engine smoke and run crappy.
If you take the injectors out and clean the ends they will crap up with the next tank of diesel and waste engine oil.
It's a waste of time .
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Are you talking from experience here running engine oil yourself in a 300tdi?
 
So me and a few others on this forum along with the military must be doing something wrong then? Every diesel engined motor I've owned over the past ten years (including Toyota and Transit) has run as good if not better on properly fitered reclaimed dino oil. My mates tractor runs perfectly and he ploughs acres with it so any problems would have shown up by now. Mine sailed through its last MOT and the examiner even commented on how quiet it was at idle compared to most diesels. When I took my injectors out to change the copper seals and O rings in my previous TD5 engine which had done 112,000 miles (more than half on homebrew fuel - I cant even begin to work out how much that has saved me over the years) the tips only needed a quick wipe over with parafin and an old rag to make them shiny. The pistons and valve faces had next to no carbon build up and if the oil pump had not failed I'm sure the engine would have done another 100k no problem. Oil starvation is the biggest killer of the TD5.
 
I have used waste engine oil and diesel mixes in all sort of diesels but not any used on the road but I can tell you from real life experience it does not work in any of the engines I have used it in ( INC 300 TDI)
All carboned up the injector tips.
A maxium of 10% is all the miltary use and less for long term blending.
Think about it, if it worked it would be a world wide way of saving fuel and waste engine oils are not any thing like waste veg oil in the way they burn and the carbon that is produce as a result of burning.
I am that sure of my results I would be up for a Landyzone test with other people on the forum to put this one to rest.
The results then would be there for every one to see.
 
spencer1885 said:
I have used waste engine oil and diesel mixes in all sort of diesels but not any used on the road but I can tell you from real life experience it does not work in any of the engines I have used it in ( INC 300 TDI)
All carboned up the injector tips.
A maxium of 10% is all the miltary use and less for long term blending.
Think about it, if it worked it would be a world wide way of saving fuel and waste engine oils are not any thing like waste veg oil in the way they burn and the carbon that is produce as a result of burning.
I am that sure of my results I would be up for a Landyzone test with other people on the forum to put this one to rest.
The results then would be there for every one to see.
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What was your filter setup, and what was the smallest micron you filtered down to? Interested to hear as ive just started buying bits for my set up, the americans seem to love it...
 
One micron and filtered it to death
Clean new oil will have the same results, its not whats in the oil ie contaminants but the way oil is design to be a lubricant and cling to surfaces under high pressures and also it has a high flash point.
Whats left over from burning waste engine oils is even more concerning,just ask a garage that has a waste oil burner how much crap they clean out of the burning dish.
There are people in the states who are selling over priced filtering set ups with unconfirmed stories ,they have a vested interest in perpetuating this whole 'waste engine oil for fuel' story
 
Most on board fuel filters filter to between 5 and 10 microns so there is no need to do any more. Centrifuge filters will filter to less than 5 microns but they are expensive and take a long time to do the job with multiple passes necessary to get good results. Cheap and easily available 5 micron paper core marine diesel filters (less than £2 each) will filter 500 litres or so of used engine oil before they start to clog. I can filter 50 litres in half an hour with my set up. The secret to getting engines to run on reclaimed oil is to get the viscosity correct and ensure there is no water in the mix. Used engine oil is sold in plastic lemonade bottles all over Africa as fuel at the side of the road and they dont have access to fancy fitration systems. I'll grant you that fully synthetic oils are not as good as old fashioned engine oil when used as fuel but they still burn and can be blended. The best stuff to use is transmission oil as it contains less contaminants and makes a more consistent brew. Just imagine how much transmission oil is chucked away by black cabbies who change gearbox oil every three months. Much of the reclaimed oil collected at your local waste transfer site is burnt in power stations instead of coal.
 
The garages i've spoke to tip everything into a 1000ltr tank and said help yaself, i was thinking of buying a centrifuge (£500) to make sure there was no water or antifreeze left in, it won't remove the petrol but it should save me thinning it down
 
Heavy Breather said:
The garages i've spoke to tip everything into a 1000ltr tank and said help yaself, i was thinking of buying a centrifuge (£500) to make sure there was no water or antifreeze left in, it won't remove the petrol but it should save me thinning it down
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£500
I look forward to hearing your results of running waste engine oil :doh:
Don't forget to pay the duty on it as well :)
 
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