Checking the crank and big end bearings

saxmanuk said:

Hi all. Have searched but not quite got the answers for the following of which I hope you can help
Have the 200tdi out as I am doing a new chassis complete rebuild on the landy so decided to clean and check the engine. Today sump and ladder off and oil pump removed.

questions.

If I remove a crank or big end to check the bearing is ok and not down to copper - is it ok to literally just put back on and torque up?
If the bearings are down to copper but the crank is not scored then do I replace with same original size?

The ladder frame to block had no gasket on it is this right or do I Rtv it when I rebuild ? thanks

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jamesmartin said:

yes to both and use some stud lock on the conrod studs, bottom bearing shell on mains is likely to be most worn top on conrod

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kermit_rr said:

Shells cost very little, in my opinion it would be silly not to replace them unless the wear is next to nil

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saxmanuk said:

Was surprised there was no sealant between the block and the ladder frame ?
Apparently there is a special sealant for this ? Stc611? Or can I use rtv?

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jamesmartin said:

rtv is fine aslong as both surfaces are oil free,wipe down with brake clean or thinners first

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lynall said:

Dont use run of the mill silicone sealant, it wll leak!

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saxmanuk said:

What do you recommend?

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saxmanuk said:

What do you recommend?

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lynall said:

https://www.halfords.com/tools/garage-equipment/head-gasket-and-exhaust-repairs/loctite-5660-premium-silicone-grey-gasket-maker/sealant-599738.html

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1. Big end bearings are starting to show copper on most of the pistons
2. Main Bearings also showing copper ( only 4 as haven't taken off yet - the end mains still on cos I need to pull the crank out - question coming later!
3. The Crank itself is barely marked at all! only found one small mark in the centre main.
4. Pistons in line from number 1 on the right show lots of carbon on the sides of the pistons
5. Bores show some carbon and wear
6. I did the 'filling the cores with fuel' trick to see what the compression / leakage was like and after 4 hrs there was barely a leak - although when I check this morning the bores were dry.

• I believe the bearings are std as there are no markings on the bearing besides the part number? so do i replace with std if i don't touch the crank?
• How do I remove the crank and cam timing gears ? do I need an expensive puller - or is there a trick
• EDIT - just realised - can i replace the mains without removing the crank? i.e. slide them around the crank in situ ?

• Do I change the rings or because they were actually OK - do I leave them
• I replace the big end with standard bearings as well? - however are those pistons ok or can you decoke and clean pistons
• There is no play on the small ends

• Do I have the block honed or bored by whatever is the next size up ?
• in that case I need larger rings as well ?

jamesmartin said:

you either leave rings and bores alone or hone and fit new rings(gapping each one in the bore its going to live in first before fitting to piston)

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