Chassis clean prior to galvanizing

I agree with wack61. As I said earlier, 10yrs is still a good age ie likely to have issues. I don't know how much it would cost to refurb and galv a whole chassis, but if a bulkhead costs over £800 then I reckon you would be better off buying a new one.

wack61 said:

What's the cost of all that work compared to buying a new Richards chassis

I wouldn't want to spend £500-600 getting an old one blasted acid dipped galvanised if it was only double that for a brand new one.

I've learned over many years not all savings are worthwhile

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I think that new would be the way I would go. Seems like a lot of work to go to for a small saving.

Having said that, my mate repired his S3 bulkhead and chassis and had them galved, he has had no problems for twelve years. But he is a very good welder/fabricator, so he did a good job at cost.

arc said:

I don't think this is right.

When you see car monocoques that have gone off for stripping in the acid bath, they come back as raw clean steel. Obviously where rust has taken hold the steel is thinned or perforated at worst. But there is never any trace of rust left.

Structurally it may be less than ideal but rust coming through the galv after an acid bath......

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Thats ok, we've all got opinions.

Mines formed on speaking to a chap at the indoor 4x4 show last year that had done exactly what the OP is considering. He'd payed money to have his chassis cleaned and galved and was at the show getting a price from Richards for a new one as it had lasted 2 years as the corrosion on the inside was eating its way out. Galv dosent stop rot once its got hold of it, it is a prevention not a cure.

I was with another member of this forum when i heard this so he can verify it.

However it isn't my money or my chassis so all I'm doing is providing some information to the OP. Its up to him.

If the OP is going to go ahead with his plan then:

1. The xmember ideally needs to be fitted when the vehicle is complete as it has to be adjusted so that the tub bolt holes align etc.

2. Xmember needs to be fitted before galving.

3. Don't know if Clive (Blacksheep) is still in business.

Kwakerman said:

If the OP is going to go ahead with his plan then:

1. The xmember ideally needs to be fitted when the vehicle is complete as it has to be adjusted so that the tub bolt holes align etc.
that would be easy enough as the replacement tub is here also


2. Xmember needs to be fitted before galving.

yes that was my plan

3. Don't know if Clive (Blacksheep) is still in business.

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I have contacted pressbrake and i can get one from him still

So what is the general view on this/
replace it wth a new one ?

I feel sick !

GINGE said:

Thats ok, we've all got opinions.

Mines formed on speaking to a chap at the indoor 4x4 show last year that had done exactly what the OP is considering. He'd payed money to have his chassis cleaned and galved and was at the show getting a price from Richards for a new one as it had lasted 2 years as the corrosion on the inside was eating its way out. Galv dosent stop rot once its got hold of it, it is a prevention not a cure.

I was with another member of this forum when i heard this so he can verify it.

However it isn't my money or my chassis so all I'm doing is providing some information to the OP. Its up to him.

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his could've been in a poor state to start with, mine is over 25 years old and not showing any signs for concern other than the out riggers.

Im also considering having mine galvanized.... im not going to replace it and the galv will cost around a quarter of the price of a new chassis. It will also add more value than the galv will cost.

If not i will only paint it.

So far the price i have been getting is 68p per kg for the galvanizing
and to have it blasted £50
so all in all not bad

well depends on the weight of the chassis i guess
mmm better look at weight of a chassis

When the gearbox cross member comes out if it's anything like mine you will see what I mean, no process can get everywhere internally to get rid of or repair rust, I've been around landrovers many years and have seen countless galv chassis rot through as they were not done from new.
Just advice but it's your money and your decision.

Well after giving this some thought im going to replace the dented rear cross member and either paint the chassis or send it to be shot blasted and galvanised
As I can not see the point of scrapping a really good chassis

A chassis is 100kg. So for the cost of having it done I would be very tempted to do it. I suppose it's personal preference. But at £1200 for a new one it's a big difference.

But it all boils down to how good the chassis is inside.

I think the 'how good it is on the inside' question is the crux of this thread. Shot blasting will only do what you can see and AFAIK if you acid dip (and agitate) you will get virtually all the rot out. So if you blast and galvanise then you will get a nice clear surface on the outside and the galv will seal in the rot which will eventually come through. But if you acid dip them galv you should be good for a long while in comparison.

On another note though, my Dad had an old Thames Trader cab acid dipped to get rid of the rust, but there was still some bits trapped in various holes and cavities which has already started to come through. So there is also credence to the argument of only doing it to a new chassis.

The problem with lr chassis is the double skinned parts that corrode from the inside out.
If it was me I would cut the crossmember off and check inside, if its still paint I think it would be savable ,so before replacing the crossmember I would expose other sealed sections like the a frame crossmember bulkhead outriggers and send for proper chemical cleaning first, BUT this would cost more than a new chassis with the galvanising

Cheers guys for all the advise but with everything else that needs doing think im going to replace the dented rear cross member and paint the bugger
and if it needs replacing in afew years I will get a new one
thats if I still have this one then

I'm the same, I'll keep mine going but I'm well aware it will need replacing sometime

SteNova said:

I'm the same, I'll keep mine going but I'm well aware it will need replacing sometime

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Yep best thing to do at the momemt
as I have loads of other stuff to do
repaint
gearbox
new wiring
cam belt
clutch
blah de blah

I have been thinking all weekend ref a new Galv chassis
even though my chassis is in great condition I just think it would be a shame to do all this work and not do it right, and in the end i have no intention of selling my defender as its my 40th pressie from me to me oh and the wife ha ha

so Looks like i will be calling Richards and Marshlands on Monday