Central locking and alarm dead, so is car!

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
peanuts01 said:
3 brilliant posts, I really do thank you for taking the time to write:). Weather permitting (and whether or not the intercooler arrives today for my sons Volvo:rolleyes:) I'll be on it today. I've ordered some CAIG DeoxIT, seems like something that should be in the tool box anyway, cheers. Being a 60's/70's lad I was brought up on Scotch Locks and so was wondering if I found the earth wires (after doing connectors) I attached secondary leads to them both and took them to a new earth as a temporary measure and, if it worked do soldered joints, just a thoughto_O.
Click to expand...
Personally I would do it once and do it properly, not a big fan of scotch locks.;) good luck.
 
OK, it's all working :) (at the moment!).
After moving all the connectors whilst cleaning them I found the earth point and cleaned that up, but it still didn't work:(, until I moved the alarm ecu, then it did, again, just the once. So here was the problem now, I think some ham fisted idiot :)D:rolleyes:) must have pulled a wire lose in the black 16 pin connector while trying to remove ito_O, I only had to squeeze the connector block for the doors to lock, move it a fraction, nothing working. I now have it held on with 3 cable ties to the plug, wires and ecu and, as I said, it's working. Took it for a run on some bumpy roads (so few of them in this country lol:)) to see if the wires moved, luckily nothing happened. Tried it again this morning and still OK. I don't believe this was the original problem as no-body touched the ecu overnight when it first failed, either the replacement ecu or relay did the trick, then it lead me up the garden path! :mad: Anyone know if it's possible to re-secure the wires in to the connector, (given the very limited and awkward space in which to work) or, am I better off getting one cut off another motor with as long a leads as possible and soldering the 'new' plug on to my leads?
 
Well Done! l bet your Happy.:D
As for the reconnecting, it depends if the wire is attached is secure when its pushed back into the plug, if correct it should lock, or at least stay in place and connected, accessible to work is always important with this style of connection, Its not unknown for an adjacent pin/s being damaged so you will have more connections to deal with, then it does get messy :(
So if you can’t get/have a bit more space then its up to you what happens next.
As you know what the issue was and where, if appears when its placed back to have a good connection, its likely to stay that way for years if left alone...:)
 
Happy :):) it's working. Up to me, too true, my decision (never been a strong point:eek:) but, and it's a big BUT, can't leave it alone, it's as crusty as hell down there so, got to find the reason for the leak that caused the 'crustiness' (is that really a word?o_O) in the first place, so got to move all the wiring, again! (the carpet underlay was soaked). One day:D ....................... might just wait for better weather ( cowards live longer than hero's).
 
cowards live longer than hero's
And the author of that book ? :)

If the wiring becomes iffy, as its copper so then it will get nasty with corrosion, so again it up to you what to do about it. Show a photo whats what and your may get an opinion.

I take its an iffy multi pin plug and fits into the socket of the security control unit, if so replace it, then with a new plug (if still available I suspect they are) terminate the new individual pins with short length of suitable wire (tails) then remove the old plug, and cut back the existing wiring and remove the corroded part, join existing wires to the tails, plug back in and forget.
Don’t forget to note pin and wire colour in the old and new plugs so its a straight forward connection as it should be.
All standard stuff really :)
 
Didn't know it was a book, it was just one of dad's sayings having survived WWII :)

Tried to take a photo yesterday but it just shows a 16 pin plug in a socket, nothing more to see, no signs of corrosion on it or the wiring (that's why I said it was probably more my fault than the cars:rolleyes:) but plenty on the metal frame it's attached to, hence why I've got to move it to find out where the water's coming from:(. Didn't think I'd be able to get a new plug, hence saying to get one off a donor car and solder that in place of mine, one wire at a time so I don't get confused, and they'd already be colour coded correctly! (I'll have a look on line to see if a new plug is available but, as it's a 26 year old loom, not quite sure who'd stock it). What better way to spend your time than tinkering with an old Land Rover? The first 500 that spring to mind don't count:D
 
Back to it again today thinking what happens if I push all the connectors with a very thin screwdriver? o_OThe result was that nothing happened on the black 16 pin plug BUT, I found a trapped wire from the white 6 pin plug, so I traced it back and pushed that in with the screwdriver, the screwdriver suddenly slipped and went all the way in to the connector and, everything worked:), took it out, all dead, put it back in, bingo:):). As can be seen from the picture, there's now a panel pin making a 'secure' connection and shaking the unit (which used to always make it go dead) makes no difference, I can wait for the next problem, for now I'm a happy little bunny:D:)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1303.JPG
    IMG_1303.JPG
    236.3 KB · Views: 77
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

awkwardbob
L322 2003 L322 Can’t open bonnet -battery flat
Replies
16
Views
427
marjon
marjon
HillbillyDave
Central locking help
Replies
1
Views
855
Alteredtech
Alteredtech
G
Disco 2 Central locking
Replies
9
Views
847
sierrafery
sierrafery
feyniriel
P38 key not locking the car
Replies
13
Views
1K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
D
Freelander 2 rear nearside door central locking not working
Replies
2
Views
660
Grahame of the shires
Grahame of the shires
Back
Top