Cant find the timing pin. help needed

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I had a 300Tdi with 170K miles and I didn't have a wear lip, but I have seen this on other engines. Coincidentally my Dad is currently rebuilding an old Leyland 350 engine and that had a lip similar to yours and he has replaced the cylinder liners, the pistons and the rings. Unfortunately the Land Rover engine doesn't have liners so the only way to remove it is to rebore. However yours might not actually need it. A more expert engine person would be able to advise on that

It is a little odd that only one of the valve sets in the head are dry and the others are very wet with oil, but it was spewing out oil so this could be part of that. I would remove the valves and see if you can see any obvious leakage on them. Check sideways movement in the guides too. Also clean the head and see if there is anything obvious. Maybe get it properly pressure tested and skimmed.
 
Thanks for the advice. My plan is to clean it all up tomorrow and try and do some tolerance tests. After that I need experts I think. And some research into injectors.
 
I will be honest and say that you may be looking at a rebore, new pistons and rings etc. But if it does get that far I would just buy a rusty old Discovery, swap the engines over and break the Discovery. It will probably end up that you will make money too!!

Don't get disheartened over the whole thing though; it's only an engine and there are loads of these Discovery engines around. And if you did it would just be a bolt back in job. Easy.
 
Running with little or no oil, does lead to premature wear.

you have two choices - get an alternative lump, or fully strip & rebuild the one you have got.
 
I started cleaning up the head this evening, as with everything else the inlet bores were full of oil.
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and all around the Valves was coated with thick black scum.
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I took the injectors and glow plugs out. Both were really sooted up and the glow plugs looked pitted and worn. Are they still good or worth replacing?
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It's quite satisfying cleaning off all the grime but it's taking forever, so I called it a night.
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the bores need reboring if you can feel a step ,diesel in combustion chamber isnt good ,with head gasket its staining over fire ring that will show failure as much as a blow through, if inlets are quite dirty its usully a sign egr isnt blanked
 
They all move when tunring the engine over by hand. So I don't think so. Thanks though. I still haven't found anything that would mean it shouldnt start. So I'm at a bit of a lost end
 
I think you have a combination of so many issues that it all seems like you don't know where to start.

If I were you I would decide how much you want to spend and then decide what to do next. A second hand 200Tdi will cost between 300 and 400, a scrap Discovery about the same (maybe even cheaper) so base your work on that. I would say that you engine probably needs a rebore, new pistons and rings (a full rebuild really) which will cost you a lot more than that. I don't know if you have the space to do an engine transplant but I would seriously consider it at this time.

Getting a 200Tdi will mean that it's going to be as straight forward as you can get. Engine will be the same so you just unbolt and then bolt back in.

AND if you buy a full Discovery, again if you have the space, you can break it, make your money back and then get paid in tonnage with what is left. And if you are clever you could get your old head skimmed and pressure tested, then rebuild it (very cheap really) and sell that in it's own.

I think this would be my choice.
 
Firstly cheers really appreciate the advice. It is starting to look like its the best option.

Having said that,stripping down the injectors tonight I can see why they were struggling. Some were full of oil some rusty fuel.
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The ultrasonic cleaner is brilliant.
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My only worry is one of these was really pitted after cleaning.
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I am tempted to stick them back in clean up the rest of the head and see what happens. Having had mixed responses to the wear lips it can't hurt for a test. Might even present some more problems.
 
I could be wrong, but I don't think you can just stick the injectors back in - as you have had them apart, don't they need to be setup with specialist equipment? If they are not setup correctly, they will just dribble diesel rather than creating the special spray patterns required.
 
Ah Sht. I read some threads about cleaning them yourself assumed that was it. Then just stick them back in. Knowing what's inside I can't see much that is tunable besides the torque on the end nut. Hopefully someone knows for sure.
 
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