Cant find the timing pin. help needed
- Thread starter danp3
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jamesmartin
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200tdi or 2.5 ? 2.5 with cast iron head which do have replaceable guides that can be knocked out and hammered back in with a special punch but pressing is the best
jamesmartin
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in theory but to will have mushroomed a little over time ,you check valves by fitting in guide lifting a little and wobbling to see what play there is
Right explanation, bear in mind this is only forensic investigation for curiosity reasons.
Taking out the valves all was going well until no. 7. This inlet valve was really stiff to get out to the point I had to take a piece of wooden dowel and tap it with a hammer. Even this took several taps moving a little each time. It was only stiff for the last inch I'd guess.
So I measured the valve as you can see. All the other valves were uniform along their length. If anything the very end, shown in first picture, was minutely under. Valve 7 however, the end was .08mm larger than the rest. It wouldn't fit in any other guides and other vlaves would fit in guide 7.
Strange to be only one valve, until I remember the most bent pushrod that we struggled to pull through the head was no. 7.
Also valve 7 had a lot more crud on the back side than any other inlet Valve.
the right one has mounds of stuff solidly stuck on.
What would be the knock on effect of this, if any? If it took out that piston or significantly reduced it would the engine still run on two. could thus be why no start?
Taking out the valves all was going well until no. 7. This inlet valve was really stiff to get out to the point I had to take a piece of wooden dowel and tap it with a hammer. Even this took several taps moving a little each time. It was only stiff for the last inch I'd guess.
So I measured the valve as you can see. All the other valves were uniform along their length. If anything the very end, shown in first picture, was minutely under. Valve 7 however, the end was .08mm larger than the rest. It wouldn't fit in any other guides and other vlaves would fit in guide 7.
Strange to be only one valve, until I remember the most bent pushrod that we struggled to pull through the head was no. 7.
Also valve 7 had a lot more crud on the back side than any other inlet Valve.
What would be the knock on effect of this, if any? If it took out that piston or significantly reduced it would the engine still run on two. could thus be why no start?
jamesmartin
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as i said head has mushroomed,sometimes its all sometimes just 1 or 2 ,exhaust is cruddy as its had poor burn with excess oil
Morning. I only had a couple of hours on the truck today as I didn't fancy walking back from the lock up. First thing was pouring a glug of oil into each cylinder. Which surpriseingly didn't drop in level for the hour and a half before I left. :thumbup: things are looking up for this engine.
I spent the rest of the time trying to get the sump off. Those bolts are barstools! Only got a out 8 out. Any advice for rounded heads?
I spent the rest of the time trying to get the sump off. Those bolts are barstools! Only got a out 8 out. Any advice for rounded heads?
sp00k
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Bolt extractors. On my too buy list. I need to get my sump off at some point too so I can clean it out. Let me know how they work out for you
Irwin Bolt Grip Nut Remover Set 5 Pieces | Screwfix.com
smudge67999
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hi have you looked at the bottom of the bell housing mine has a screww plug there and thats were i locked my fly wheel when i did mine. plus also like others have said on here bottom of front pulley case
Eventually got the sump off. Sp00k didn't get the extractors in the end. The last two stubborn ones were a pain. Spreading the heads out with a cold chisel gave enough purchase to get them out though.
Inside everything looked good, well what I could see. I was expecting to see the crank ect. I wasn't really sure what I was looking for. Still the sump was all clean with no debris in the bottom.
The search goes on
Inside everything looked good, well what I could see. I was expecting to see the crank ect. I wasn't really sure what I was looking for. Still the sump was all clean with no debris in the bottom.
The search goes on
jamesmartin
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youd see bottom of ladder frame with a 200 tdi ,flange head bolts if tight hit hard with flat headed punch first then try if not hit again
Evening. Few questions about replacing the engine. The guy my dad was speaking to said I might as well have the gearbox out of his disco as well, apparently it's the best one. :what:
So last night I checked the box number to try and find which one it had in it. Having found the number it was no clearer. It was P19743 ffs0047992g any ideas?
He also said it would be worth breaking his box off to replace the clutch plate and arm before putting it in. Is there anything else you would suggest?
would appreciate any advice
So last night I checked the box number to try and find which one it had in it. Having found the number it was no clearer. It was P19743 ffs0047992g any ideas?
He also said it would be worth breaking his box off to replace the clutch plate and arm before putting it in. Is there anything else you would suggest?
would appreciate any advice
jamesmartin
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g would suggest lt77 but disco box wont readily fit in a defender,definitly check /replace clutch lever and pivot ,clutch and spigot bush and rear main oil seal
jamesmartin
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in good condition ,they were quite a good box ,id be happy using the right one in the right configuration
Finally managed to speak to the owner of my engine to be today. Turns out he's got two 300tdis. So the straight swop has turned into a much more daunting upgrade. Has anyone got any experience of this transplant or is it worth starting a new thread for my queries?
