Finally got around to fitting the new pane of glass I had cut for the military door tops. Never did find a supplier anywhere for panels so took the other side to the local glass supplier and they sent it off for a copy to be cut.
Below is a quick write up for how to remove and replace the glass in a military/early 110 all aluminum door top. It is far easier imo than a series door top to work on.
In the corners of the lower channel is a single rivet, this needs drilling out. There are four screws along the bottom of the runner underneath the window glass (three in my case as one had previously been snapped). To remove these screws you need to slide both windows to one end and then repeat slide in the other direction.
the glass and runner channel can then be removed from the frame. it may be a little stiff to lift over the locking mechanism, I managed to remove it with no problem but needed to remove the lock for refitting although you should not have to according to the manual.
While it is all apart this is the perfect opportunity to replace the felt runners. You can get kits with plastic runners that should last forever but the felt is very cheap (woolies trim:
link) and does not require the door to be stripped to replace. I have done it several times previously fully assembled and has felt left over so took this opportunity to replace again. It just folds in half and then slots into the channel grove. there are lips on the top edges you need to make sure the felt s sitting beneath to ensure it remains in place.
I had to remove the broken glass form the lower window runner. this is just a pressure fit in the channel with a u-shaped piece of rubber to grip the runner and glass firmly and keep it all in place. Once again i could not find a replacement for this piece of rubber although i suspect I would have used a piece of inner tube and on reassembly it was a little loose so I ran a very thin smear of instant gasket along the glass before refitting and that held secure once set.
Having fitted the lower runner to the new piece of glass and I refitted both windows to the lower channel and placed the top edges into the newly felted frame channels. At this point i could not get the lower channel to go over the locking mechanism even when fully unlocked so I removed the lock mechanism.
The manual and all instruction i have found state that it should not be necessary to remove the lock to remove the glass and I did manage to remove it with no issues. I may just not have tried hard enough on reassembly but as it is only held in place by four rivets and the lock mechanism is plastic I did not want to risk breaking anything. With the lock removed everything slotted back into place with no effort or issue, A quick smear of instant gasket around the locking mechanism before refitting and 6 rivet later the door is fully reassembled with a new pane of glass and ready to be painted and refitted to the door. Although you shouldn't need sealant on the locking mechanism because of the way the door top drains I have in the past ended up with water running into the cab through the lock mechanism so previously ran a bead of silicone around the outside of it. As it was removed I thought it would be a neater job to seal the interface rather than externally add sealant.
