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God I remember them!
Nasty orange looking things I seem to remember!
Takes me back!
(Never had one, always carry a spare!)
Burnt out - rebuild
- Thread starter dag019
- Start date
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Nasty orange looking things I seem to remember!
Takes me back!
(Never had one, always carry a spare!)
- Posts
- 44,832
- Location
- East Dorset
Oh dear, they are rubbish aren't they? AND they had to have a fairing. Remind me of the ones on my Marlin Roadster.I did tell the owner they don’t look correct. I thought they looked like of a trailer board
View attachment 267751
But then found this!
You need to look closely.
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- East Dorset
I do at least put it in a vice!!!
Some more progress updates. I have rebuilt the front suspension to replace the top shock bushes that were fire damaged (did all shock bushes). At the same time I fitted tubular turrets, although my existing turrets could probably have cleaned up and painted u couldn’t be bothered with the effort. They were originally galv but the fire had burnt all that off and they were now rusting. So galv replacements were in order.
At the same time I checked the whee bearings and swivel pins as despite having the tracking done several times the tyres were still wearing unevenly. I found some play in the swivel bearings so removed a couple of shims and that solved the issue (it had a lot of thick shims). I also spent ages drilling out the calliper bolt that sheared when removing that before I could refit everything. But now back on its wheels and hopefully the “tracking” issue resolved.
At the same time I checked the whee bearings and swivel pins as despite having the tracking done several times the tyres were still wearing unevenly. I found some play in the swivel bearings so removed a couple of shims and that solved the issue (it had a lot of thick shims). I also spent ages drilling out the calliper bolt that sheared when removing that before I could refit everything. But now back on its wheels and hopefully the “tracking” issue resolved.
I have fitted the fuel filter and plumbed in the fuel system. Once again my thanks to @doriz for confirming which way around the feed and return pipes are in the tank. As I did not want to drop the tank to replace the lines I did some research and lots of internet suggestions said rubber hose over the plastic lines with a hose clamp was perfectly fine for the low pressure system. I have done this for now so will see how it holds up and replace the whole length as a last resort if it is required. I did wrap the rubber hose in conduit to give added protection and just need to work out how to secure it up into the engine bay from the chassis rail under the footwell.
I also managed to get the clutch pipework completed. Once again this has not been secured but I know kid the correct routing form my other thread (link). I am guessing there are plastic clips that press into the bulkhead to hold it in place similar to the fuel and brake pipes along the chassis. If anyone can confirm that would be great and I will study the parts manual some more!
I also managed to get the clutch pipework completed. Once again this has not been secured but I know kid the correct routing form my other thread (link). I am guessing there are plastic clips that press into the bulkhead to hold it in place similar to the fuel and brake pipes along the chassis. If anyone can confirm that would be great and I will study the parts manual some more!
doriz
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I have also made some other progress that does not warrant photographs. So I have fully removed the rear wiring loom and as soon as the correct size conduit arrives I will fit the new one. I run mine in conduit and then along the top of the chassis rail rather than inside. It makes install, removal and inspection fee easier and I have had no issues in the 10 years I have done this. Next thing to do it front brake pipes and the bias valve and master. If anyone has any diagrams for this it would be greatly appreciated as once again I didn’t label the charred remains and other than the rear brake line I am starting mostly from Scratch. I know the front brake routing it is more which way they go into the bias valve and master cylinder.
I have managed to do nearly all of the brake pipework now, just awaiting a final mounting bracket to finish the passenger front caliper. More details on the brake plumbing is on this thread here: link
The disco engine I am using had aircon so does not have a suitable servo to vacuum pipe. I am assuming it is just a piece of reinforced rubber hose, does anyone know what size I need to buy?
I have also rebuilt the radiator frame ready to go back in now the brake pipe sunder it have been replaced and on putting it back together I have noticed what looks to be a hole that has rubbed in my intercooler!
As this is a very expensive (to replace, I got it second hand) full width alisport intercooler other than tig welding can you repair ali like this? Is it possible to solder or braze to patch the hole?
The disco engine I am using had aircon so does not have a suitable servo to vacuum pipe. I am assuming it is just a piece of reinforced rubber hose, does anyone know what size I need to buy?
I have also rebuilt the radiator frame ready to go back in now the brake pipe sunder it have been replaced and on putting it back together I have noticed what looks to be a hole that has rubbed in my intercooler!
As this is a very expensive (to replace, I got it second hand) full width alisport intercooler other than tig welding can you repair ali like this? Is it possible to solder or braze to patch the hole?
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Bugger .... yes you should be able to solder/braize that gap ...
Other than lots and lots of brake cleaner any suggestions on how to best clean it up for either to stick properly?
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- 4,549
A light rubbing with some 120 grit would expose the alloy i'd have thought and plenty of flux ...
These are the things I would use ... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184772934928
These are the things I would use ... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184772934928
Quick update along with a quick question
I have completed the brake pipe work and have bled the brakes and clutch. I will be back this afternoon to make sure they have stayed bled (am not sure the clutch was fully bled),
I am going to repair the intercooler having ordered the ali brazing rods linked by @miktdish so will give an update and some pic after I have completed that. Once the intercooler has been repaired I can plumb in the coolant system and hopefully try and get it to test fire. There is no wiring loom in yet so plan on using a battery and jump cables direct to the starter and fuel solenoid.
Before stating I want to check the oil pressure. I believe the oil pressure circuit is a switch earth on the sensor, is that correct? If so I can just use a low watt bulb and some cable direct form the jump battery to see if it goes off after spinning the engine over. then I can swap the feed to the fuel solenoid and see if I can get it running.
I have completed the brake pipe work and have bled the brakes and clutch. I will be back this afternoon to make sure they have stayed bled (am not sure the clutch was fully bled),
I am going to repair the intercooler having ordered the ali brazing rods linked by @miktdish so will give an update and some pic after I have completed that. Once the intercooler has been repaired I can plumb in the coolant system and hopefully try and get it to test fire. There is no wiring loom in yet so plan on using a battery and jump cables direct to the starter and fuel solenoid.
Before stating I want to check the oil pressure. I believe the oil pressure circuit is a switch earth on the sensor, is that correct? If so I can just use a low watt bulb and some cable direct form the jump battery to see if it goes off after spinning the engine over. then I can swap the feed to the fuel solenoid and see if I can get it running.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
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- 16,242
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- Wiltshire
Yes the oil pressure is on the earth. make sure it goes out as you want oil round the turbo before starting
Well I jinxed myself by getting ahead of things and beginning to talk about oil pressure switch's and getting ready for starting. I had a set of oil cooler pipes ordered and though it wuold be a nice easy job for this evening to fit them but not the case. The new engine is has the metric o-ring style fittings and everything I have is the old imperials conical style fittings. Thread started here (link) specifically about the oil cooler pipes and which adapters for the radiator I need to move to the later style metric o-ring oil cooler pipes.
Despite the setback with the oil cooler pipes I did manage to repair my intercooler. the ali brazing rod linked above is a very odd material to work with. regardless of how hot you get it is it never become a proper liquid (or at least i could not get it to) and remains as a sort of pate. after a bit of trial and error I found the best way to use it was to get it hot and "liquid" and the sort of press it into place with a piece of steel round bar. it might not be the "correct" way of doing it but is made a tidy repair that seems to be strongly bonded to the intercooler, it would not chip off and seemed to be solid. The intercooler and radiator are now fitted awaiting oil cooler pipes and a final intake pipe before being fully plumbed in.
The clutch needs bleeding again but the brakes are now complete I just need a piece of suitable rubber vacuum hose for the servo, and the steering column is now in so it is more easily mobile again. But this will need to be removed again as I want to rebuild the steering box.
The clutch needs bleeding again but the brakes are now complete I just need a piece of suitable rubber vacuum hose for the servo, and the steering column is now in so it is more easily mobile again. But this will need to be removed again as I want to rebuild the steering box.
Hicap phill
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- Wiltshire
Think I have 1 part of oil cooler pipe if needed. I could drop it off as need a run out on the bike .
Unsure which end but will post photo if needed
.Unsure which end but will post photo if needed
That would be very much appreciated. If you could post a photo that would be great.Think I have 1 part of oil cooler pipe if needed. I could drop it off as need a run out on the bike
Unsure which end but will post photo if needed
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
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- 16,242
- Location
- Wiltshire
First pipe
Has the following ends
another pipe found… now old racer spares looks like this is the other pipe Does have adapter and may fit. They were zip tied together & never used(once fractured a pipe & always carried spares after) adapter goes into the oil filter plate
Has the following ends
another pipe found… now old racer spares looks like this is the other pipe Does have adapter and may fit. They were zip tied together & never used(once fractured a pipe & always carried spares after) adapter goes into the oil filter plate
Attachments
Many thanks for the photographs, the first one looks very similar to the pipe that I already have. I think what I really need is the radiator adapter to be able to take the o-ring style pipes. I just need to work out if ESR1262 which is the part the I need and is no longer available is the same as NTC3858 which all suppliers are claiming supersedes it (link). This thread on another forum (link) seems to suggest they are not the same and at £30 each I don't want to risk it without being sure.
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Couldn't any hydraulic fitter make you up a pipe/change ends around etc ?
Do you have a tool hire nearby that hires diggers etc ??
Do you have a tool hire nearby that hires diggers etc ??
